Transfer switch not making contact automatically.

[mikathi]

I have a Lyght Automatic transfer switch that is malfunctioning. The convert is not charging the house deep cycle batteries when using the shore line or the generator. If I manually hold down the one of the switches it will stay down and the converter comes on and the batteries will charge. I see on my display panel the battery gauge lights go from 1 green light (1/3 power) to 3 green lights (full power).
My question is..... can the contacts on the switches be cleaned with emery board (I used to do the all the time when cars had points in the distributors) or is it best to get an entirely new trasfer switch box.

[wolfe10]

"I've already wired The L1's together L2's together and the Neutrals together."

Yes:

L1 in to L1 out
L2 in to L2 out
Neutral to Neutral
Ground to Ground

If converter is not on, check the breaker powering it.

[mikathi]

You said, "Yes you can wire nut one source to the output. Put wire nuts on the second power source to isolate the wires as disconnected." I've not done this before but do know enough about electricity to be dangerous, as they say. Wire nut one source? Are you referring to wire together only the L1 and neutral? Not both L1 and L2? I've already wired The L1's together L2's together and the Neutrals together. Now the converter will not come on. Do i need to disconnect the L2's. Otherwise I'm just going to put it all back together until the new switch arrives. At least I was able to get it to run for a few hours. better than nothing. HELP!

[mikathi]

Thank you for all your help

[time2roll]

Yes you can wire nut one source to the output to keep the lights on while you sort out replacing the switch. The junction should still be in a box and you can use the existing switch box. Put wire nuts on the second power source to isolate the wires as disconnected.

[mikathi]

I understand the basics but can usually figure things out. Sorry if I'm repeating myself, but I want to be 100% sure of the following, I just want sure I could connect the two, shore line and load panel: L1s together, L2s together, and negatives together? Leave the generator out be itself until I get the new transfer switch?

[D_E_Bishop]

I’m assuming that you know what the relay does and that it’s called a DPDT relay, so going from there to the moveable armature, when the relay is in it’s normal position, there should be enough pressure to make the armature contacts move just a little. The surface of the stationary and armature contacts should wipe just a little. When the relay is energized, the same thing should happen to the lower stationary contact and the armature contacts. The armature contacts are mounted on a flexible flat spring like piece of metal. That flex is what allows the contacts to wipe.

It is hard to see under the best of circumstances but in that case in a basement cabinet, it’s impossible. At least now you know there should be some flex in the armature contacts when operating.

Now to answer your questions, yes you can use an emery board, but the striking strip from a package of paper matches is better and just cleans the contacts, it does not really remove any metal from the contacts. The rest of the match book can be cut the long way into a strip about ½” wide and used to clean the surfaces of the armature and iron core where they meet when actuated. Before and after burnishing the contacts and the armature/iron core, use some canned air for cleaning dust from your keyboard to dust the entire relay.

If this does not solve the problem, replace the relays/switches. Maintenance is good and solves a lot of problems.

Hope this helps.
David

I reread your post and if the relay isn't pulling it replace the relay. If it pulls in, but does not make contact, try burnishing and cleaning.

Regarding replacement, contact Best Converter as suggested for good price and totally compatible ATS.

[mikathi]

Your ideas sounds good. I just want sure I could connect the two. Do to be clear, show line and load panel: L1s together, L2s together, and negatives together? Leave thegenerator out be itself until I get the new one?

[YC_1]

Why not just lift the gozinds and goesouts and wire nut them together? You will need to remove the transfer switch at some time anyway.

Take plenty of pictures before and print them out for reference.

[mikathi]

I've ordered an new transfer switch. My current Transfer switch is not working and we are full timers in the motorhome. I was wondering, could I jump the L1 and L2 and negative wires from the shore line to the load panel line and get the converter to charge the house batteries that way or is that a hazard? That would temporarily bypass the generator until I get the new one delivered? Thank you.

[YC_1]

Yes you can clean the contacts. May be as simple as that. Be sure to tighten all the screws that are holding wires.

It is best to unplug from shoreline. Being silly of course. Make sure you do not have an auto start generator setup to turn on.

[YC_1]

Yes you can clean the contacts. May be as simple as that. Be sure to tighten all the screws that are holding wires.

It is best to unplug from shoreline. Being silly of course. Make sure you do not have an auto start generator setup to turn on.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I would love to diagnose your original switch and see exactly what went wrong. The layout is similar to the transfer switches I built for the Kelley II

Their burden was 35 amperes 240 AC and the first set of relays lasted 5 years or so (heavily salt laden marine atmosphere). A really crummy circuit at the fish processing plant defeated even a reasonably spread hysteresis gate.

The transfer switches I used to build used 1st generation 5mm diagnostic LEDs - one glance and any problem evident simply screamed its confession.

[mikathi]

Yes L1 and L2 have power. Right now I've got it working but no way of telling if it'll keep working. I have a Lyght transfer switch (see photo). Any brand you would recommend over another. I'm leaning toward the same as I have so I don't have to move or add any new wires.

[time2roll]

If you are holding down the contact to make it work it is not the contact itself. It is either the control module or the coil in the relay. Are you sure you have power on both L1 and L2 of the source?

However in the normal closed position the relay should pass power from one source or the other based an where the relay is stuck. I recommend a complete new switch.

http://www.bestconverter.com/100-Amp-Transfer-Switch