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Winterizing a Trailer Procedure

smcrea
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hi,

Sorry if this subject has been thrashed out previously.

I've just moved from San Diego to Frederich MD and have never winterized my trailer before.

Could someone please give me a step by step procedure along with required tools to do the job?

Thanks!

Steve.
16 REPLIES 16

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
mike-s wrote:
Not sure where you get that 1/4" as a requirement, or even typical. If you look at made-for-purpose RV blow-out plugs, the brass ones have an orifice much smaller than 1/4", and others have Schrader valves which also very much restrict flow.

It would be a very large RV to have more than a couple of gallons of capacity in the water lines. I know a single gallon will fill the lines on our (relatively modest) one with more than enough left to fill the traps. It's more volume than pressure that's needed to blow out lines - you really only need a few psi to push the water through. A 2 gallon air tank at 40 psi will deliver over 3 gallons of 10 psi air.

And really, you don't even need that - just constant flow. Open the valves one at a time starting closest to the source. After you get rid of all the constant water flow (so they just sputter), let the system pressurize, then go back and open one at a time, the air pressure in the lines will blast out most of what remains.


A 1/4" is the standard ID of an air fitting like a Milton quick connect. The effective ID of a Schrader valve is 0.21" so the difference really isn't worth talking about.

Your point about volume was exactly what I was getting at, let's says a typical RV has 20' of 1/2" pipe in each of hot and cold circuits. A 1/2" pipe has a volume of 0.0102 gallons per foot, so 20' of pipe would hold 0.204 gallons. Now hook up a tankless (battery powered tire filler?) to it and charge it to 40 psi.

When you open the tap you have 2/10ths of a gallon of air trying to displace the water before the pressure drops back to zero.

That won't do very much if anything.

Pressure ONLY counts when there's a solid plug of water ahead of the air, once there's even a tiny way past that water air takes the path of least resistance.

It is only continuous air flow at that 40 psi that drags all those remaining drops along and out the tap.

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
garyemunson wrote:
The best tool to own is a battery powered compressor with a regulator you can set at 40 lbs.

In theory, a 1/4" air fitting running wide open, like when blowing out a water system, with the feed pressure at 40 psi will flow a little over 25 CFM.

A decent small 120 volt compressor with a 2 gallon tank might be able to make 5 or 6 CFM at 40 psi.

The only way you'd get enough volume of air with a battery powered compressor would be to fit an air tank inline with the hose and create a reservoir of pressure to give you full pressure for a much longer period of time, however you'd likely burn up the compressor in no time doing that.
Not sure where you get that 1/4" as a requirement, or even typical. If you look at made-for-purpose RV blow-out plugs, the brass ones have an orifice much smaller than 1/4", and others have Schrader valves which also very much restrict flow.

It would be a very large RV to have more than a couple of gallons of capacity in the water lines. I know a single gallon will fill the lines on our (relatively modest) one with more than enough left to fill the traps. It's more volume than pressure that's needed to blow out lines - you really only need a few psi to push the water through. A 2 gallon air tank at 40 psi will deliver over 3 gallons of 10 psi air.

And really, you don't even need that - just constant flow. Open the valves one at a time starting closest to the source. After you get rid of all the constant water flow (so they just sputter), let the system pressurize, then go back and open one at a time, the air pressure in the lines will blast out most of what remains. Run the pump briefly with the supply valve closed and the antifreez line open to clear it. Then open all the valves and the low point drains and let the few remaining drips come out. Any left after that shouldn't be a worry, there will just be little bits here and there surrounded by enough air that there's room for freeze expansion.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
garyemunson wrote:
The best tool to own is a battery powered compressor with a regulator you can set at 40 lbs.


With all due respect, that's VERY dangerous advice.

The pressure the air is under has very little to do with clearing the water out of the lines compared to the VOLUME of air you put through the system.

In theory, a 1/4" air fitting running wide open, like when blowing out a water system, with the feed pressure at 40 psi will flow a little over 25 CFM.

A decent small 120 volt compressor with a 2 gallon tank might be able to make 5 or 6 CFM at 40 psi.

The only way you'd get enough volume of air with a battery powered compressor would be to fit an air tank inline with the hose and create a reservoir of pressure to give you full pressure for a much longer period of time, however you'd likely burn up the compressor in no time doing that.

It would also take all day doing it that way.

stevemorris
Explorer
Explorer
don't forget the toilet water supply, showerheads and hoses, kitchen spray hose
2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
mikestock wrote:


I do have a refrigerator ice maker that I have to disconnect ant blow all of the water from the lines. This, I would do anyway, as you never want to let that pink stuff get into your ice maker.

Besides being cheaper, I feel that this process is far easier than my old antifreeze method.


on my ice maker I just disconnected the input at the solenoid outside and put a standard 90 degree twist off fitting on the feed. treated it like any other fitting, just let the pink stuff flow. and I never did anything on the piping inside the freezer, I sort of assumed that that got below freezing normally. ๐Ÿ™‚
bumpy

mikestock
Explorer
Explorer
After spending many years winterizing with the pink stuff I bought a lightweight air compressor with a regulator that I could adjust to about 55 psi.

Now, I just empty the tanks and water heater, bypass the water heater, as usual, and hook up the air to the RV water inlet. Then, I just walk around opening each hot and cold valve (one at a time) and let the air run until the lines are each dry.

I do pour a little pink antifreeze into each drain trap and into the washing machine to pump it through the washer pump.

I do have a refrigerator ice maker that I have to disconnect ant blow all of the water from the lines. This, I would do anyway, as you never want to let that pink stuff get into your ice maker.

Besides being cheaper, I feel that this process is far easier than my old antifreeze method.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
ScottG wrote:
I had AF turn to a slimey goo one year in my water system.
After that I just blew everything out. Works a lot better and faster and it's nice the next season not having the pink stuff foam everytime we run a faucet.
The only place I put AF is in the drains.


sounds to me like you put the AF in your fresh water tank. couldn't completely drain it. and slimy goo is pretty much what AF does when it "freezes", doesn't expand and bust things however.
bumpy

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
spend $15 for a winterizing kit if your rv doesn't already have one. a T that goes on before your water pump that can pull in antifreeze directly to the system. do NOT fill up your water tank with antifreeze. bypass and drain the water heater.
bumpy

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
I had AF turn to a slimey goo one year in my water system.
After that I just blew everything out. Works a lot better and faster and it's nice the next season not having the pink stuff foam everytime we run a faucet.
The only place I put AF is in the drains.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
If this is your first time winterizing, there are two ways you can go about doing it, or use a combination of both. Folks use both and neither is right or wrong.

First, there is the โ€œblowโ€ method.

Cons: Although blowing the lines of all water with compressed air, there could still be fine particles of water droplets left behind, especially in the valves of the faucets. These can still freeze. Although everyone who uses the โ€œblowโ€ method says this doesnโ€™t happen, there is still water moisture in the lines, and that will freeze, although may not be enough water to expand enough to hurt anything.


Second, there is the โ€œpump the pinkโ€ method.

Cons: โ€œPumping the Pinkโ€ means you are pumping RV (Pink) potable drinking antifreeze through your water lines, which will replace every bit of water and replace with the RV antifreeze. This leaves a taste in your water lines that most people donโ€™t like after the lines are flushed out in the spring and replaced with normal water. It means flushing your lines until you have no more taste and your water runs clear from the faucets. It always clears up, it just takes a little water to flush everything out.

With the โ€œPump the Pinkโ€ method, you do not want to get any of the โ€œpink stuffโ€ in the water heater. It wonโ€™t hurt the water heater, but it is challenging to flush out the water heater in the Spring to get all the โ€œpinkโ€ out. Otherwise, your hot water will have foamy bubbles in it for a long time, until it finally rinses out with normal use. Here again, it doesnโ€™t hurt your water system, itโ€™s just unpleasant for some people.

So make sure your water heater is in โ€œby-passโ€ before running โ€œpink stuffโ€ AND before using the โ€œblowโ€ method.

And, for the same reason, you donโ€™t want โ€œpink stuffโ€ in your fresh water tank. Itโ€™s just WAY too difficult to flush it out in the Spring.


Combination of both?

Some folks blow the lines first, then run the antifreeze.

Some folks run the antifreeze first, then blow out the antifreeze. (I do this).


Note: RV antifreeze will freeze up (or turn to a thick jell) when temps get below 10 degrees (F) or so. This is perfectly normal and does not hurt anything. The liquid may appear to be freezing up, but it does not expand. Thatโ€™s how itโ€™s suppose to work.

Note: If you use either method or a combination of both, remember to get your outside shower and / or outside kitchen sink (if you have one), and remember to open the low point drains and let any water be displaced with either air or โ€œpink stuffโ€.


Pumping the pink is relatively easy. You disconnect the โ€œInโ€ line going to your fresh water on-board water pump. You attach another hose. Some campers are already equipped with this, (called a winterizing kit, where you just flip a valve between the external hose and the on-board fresh water tank). Insert the hose into a gallon jug of the โ€œpink stuffโ€, then turn on your water pump. Let the pump run until it reaches pressure and shuts off. The simply go to each faucet one at a time, hot and cold, and run water until it turns pink. Remember the toilet too. Then last, crack open the low point drains under the camper until they run โ€œpinkโ€ too. You should be able to do this with 2 gallons of โ€œpink stuffโ€. But for the first 5 years of my RV ownership, I made sure I had 4 gallons on hand. The first year I did this, I used all 4 gallons, because I kept running much more pink than was really necessary.

Since then, Iโ€™ve got it down to 2 gallons. I like to blow the lines when done, so the pink stuff will go down the drains and help protect the P-traps under the sinks and shower drain.

If you use the compressor โ€œblowโ€ method, youโ€™ll need an attachment that screws into your fresh water (city inlet), where you attach a garden hose too. The attachment looks like a valve stem on your car tires, except its either hard plastic or metal.

Using an air compressor, pump the lines with pressure, then have some turn on each faucet, hot and cold, until it spits no more water. When I do this, it takes 2 people: One to hold the air compressor on at that valve stem, and the other to turn the faucets on and off one at a time. There is a risk using the โ€œblowโ€ method, if you put too much air pressure in the lines, you could blow up a line or a connection somewhere. So make sure when you start pumping the air, you regulate the max pressure for the air compressor, somewhere around 50 psi, so you wonโ€™t over-pressurize to push the water out.

There are dozens and dozens of YouTube videos explain and showing how to do both methods. Check them out. In the search box, just type โ€œWinterizing RVโ€ sit back, and enjoy! After youโ€™ve done it the first time, it will be old hat for you, and next year, youโ€™ll be answering another poster on these forums how to do it!

Good luck.

garyemunson
Explorer
Explorer
I agree that pumping antifreeze through the system is a good idea however, as we camp year around, I'd go through too much of the stuff for it to be cost effective for us. Most motorhomes are capable of very cold weather use with all the plumbing installed in 'conditioned space' while some trailers that aren't considered 'arctic ready' may have external plumbing that can freeze up even when the furnace is running. Sometimes determining that can be tricky.

DrewE
Explorer
Explorer
Others have pretty well covered it.

If you have neither an air compressor available to blow the lines out with (at relatively low pressures) nor a winterize inlet port to pump antifreeze in, you can also pump antifreeze by putting some in the previously emptied fresh water tank and pumping it around from there. That's not the preferred method--it takes a good bit more antifreeze, and equally more work to clean it out in the spring--but on a few trailers it's about the only way they make a provision for.

If you have a washing machine, consult its instructions for proper winterizing. If you have a water filter spigot on the kitchen sink or something similar, typically they need to be removed/disassembled and the housing drained.

Don't also neglect to remove foods (that attract critters) and water-based cleaning products etc. that can freeze and burst their containers.

Rustycamperpant
Explorer
Explorer
I pump two gallons of antifreeze when I winterize as mike-s describes. Do not forget your outside shower if you have one, I got dinged by that once and had to replace the entire busted apart assembly. I always put a little of the antifreeze in the toilet also, I have a phobia about the seal drying out...
2009 Ford Expedition EB, 3.73, Equal-i-zer
2015 KZ Sportsman Showstopper 301BH