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Rubber vs Solid Roof

stevemorris
Explorer
Explorer
the roof on our tt is a solid fibreglass material, previous tt was a rubber material

pros and cons?
2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260
18 REPLIES 18

hvac
Explorer
Explorer
Once you have all metal or glass, the other stuff is fun to read about the maintenance and misc issues.

rbpru
Explorer
Explorer
I cannot imagine a situation where my buy or not to buy decision was based on a rubber or fiberglass roof.

I suppose if everything else was the same between two TTs I liked, I would go with the Fiberglass. However, one is making the assumption that the fiberglass roof was installed properly and the roof was properly prepped before hand.

Just like wood vs. aluminum studs, the type of frame, floor construction, outer skin cover etc. those decisions are made by the manufacturer. They are usually based on the market niche they are going after.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
Wild Card wrote:
No offense...but been in a coastal environment all my life and have worked with fiberglass since I was an infant. It's actually wax...literally wax that comes to the surface. Never heard it called blush.

You are CLEARLY much more knowledge than I. Amine blush.

Camper_G
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
Fireballsocal wrote:
Pros, it won't deteriorate like rubber and it will stand up to scrapes and possible punctures. It doesn't need a conditioner. It still needs all the holes and joints re-sealed every 3-5 years. I don't see a con to fiberglass myself.


Not true. Seals and caulk need to be inspected at least yearly or better yet, every 6 months not every couple years. A couple years wait can result in water leaks and nasty things going on inside the walls.

I'll take a glass roof over rubber anyday. The rubber membrane is thin and can tear easily from just a branch dragging over it. Glass don't tear and a repair is as easy as some bondo.

Having said that, my preferred choice is a one piece aluminum sheet roof. Will last forever.

I keep my RV's at least 10 years, sometimes longer. My last one had an aluminum roof that looked as good as the day it was new (12 years old) and my new one is glass, 3 years now and looks fine.


I completely agree. That's what my Layton has and why I'm so hesitant to get rid of it. I believe some models of KZ trailers still have one piece aluminum roofs
2017 Dodge Ram 2500 HD, 4x4, CCSB, 6.4L HEMI, Snow Chief, tow package.,1989 Skyline Layton model 75-2251.

valhalla360
Nomad II
Nomad II
theoldwizard1 wrote:

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.


Fiberglass boat decks are completely different. It's not an occasional maintenance trip on them to check them out while walking carefully and gently. It's multiple people walking around, anchors being dropped and other hard treatment.

Fiberglass RV roofs don't need to be very thick. The plywood underneath provides the structural strength. Just needs to be enough to be water proof and not to crack due to vibrations.

Seriously doubt, they would use epoxy resin for a fiberglass RV roof. It's significantly more expensive and for standard fiberglass that isn't going to be submerged, just not worth the cost. Polyester resin would be much more appropriate and perfectly serviceable.

Epoxy does generate an "amine blush" which is a waxy material but given the thickness, the glass is going to be put down in a single installation, it's not an issue.

Where Epoxy does make sense is for repairs. It's easier to get good adhesion compared to the less expensive polyester.

If you want a small repair on your roof to be impossible to see, yeah, you need a fiberglass repair guy or some skill but since it's largely out of sight, and ugly but completely serviceable repair is quite easy.
- Wash and lightly sand the puncture or small crack.
- Mix the resin per the directions (use small batches as epoxy in particular generates heat as it cures)
- Paint some epoxy on repair area.
- Layout 2-3 glass patches onto the wetted area (any autoparts store has them). Overlap the area by at least 2-3 inches. Using more resin work them in so they are transparent with no bubbles.
- Sand off the worst bumps and stray strands of glass and slap a coat or two of enamel paint (epoxy will eventually deteriorate if exposed to the sun).
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

falconbrother
Explorer II
Explorer II
Our first TT was a 1991 Prowler. It had a tin roof. That was the best one. Good forever with hardly any maintenance. The last RV was a motorhome with rubber and it was constant maintenance. Of course it was 27 years old when I sold it. The current TT is a 2017 with rubber. It's light weight but, I don't trust it in the long run. I'd rather have fiberglass any day. Easy to fix and last a lifetime.

Wild_Card
Explorer
Explorer
theoldwizard1 wrote:
afidel wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Fiberglas might last a bit longer. But few keep an RV long enough thatmthey need to replace the roofing. Fiberglas if damaged is harder to repair.

Not at all, any competent boat shop can fix a fiberglass roof.

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.


No offense...but been in a coastal environment all my life and have worked with fiberglass since I was an infant. It's actually wax...literally wax that comes to the surface. Never heard it called blush.
2015 Ram 3500 Dually
Sundowner 2286GM Pro-Grade Toyhauler

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
afidel wrote:
donn0128 wrote:
Fiberglas might last a bit longer. But few keep an RV long enough thatmthey need to replace the roofing. Fiberglas if damaged is harder to repair.

Not at all, any competent boat shop can fix a fiberglass roof.

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
FWIW, I have an aluminum roof and it is easy to seal since I used Eternabond tapes on everything.
I won't have to worry about it billowing in the wind as happens to some rubber roofs. A fiberglass roof would also eliminate that problem. One downside to my roof is that it isn't walkable up there.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

SidecarFlip
Explorer
Explorer
Fireballsocal wrote:
Pros, it won't deteriorate like rubber and it will stand up to scrapes and possible punctures. It doesn't need a conditioner. It still needs all the holes and joints re-sealed every 3-5 years. I don't see a con to fiberglass myself.


Not true. Seals and caulk need to be inspected at least yearly or better yet, every 6 months not every couple years. A couple years wait can result in water leaks and nasty things going on inside the walls.

I'll take a glass roof over rubber anyday. The rubber membrane is thin and can tear easily from just a branch dragging over it. Glass don't tear and a repair is as easy as some bondo.

Having said that, my preferred choice is a one piece aluminum sheet roof. Will last forever.

I keep my RV's at least 10 years, sometimes longer. My last one had an aluminum roof that looked as good as the day it was new (12 years old) and my new one is glass, 3 years now and looks fine.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

spoon059
Explorer II
Explorer II
Fireballsocal wrote:
It doesn't need a conditioner.

Neither does a rubber roof.

OP, a fiberglass roof would be a considerable upgrade in my mind. Less likely to tear and they don't naturally chalk off like a rubber roof. Fiberglass is easy to "fix", but its hard to make the fix look pretty. I had an old fiberglass Jon boat with a crack in it. Bought a $10 repair kit and fixed it myself in a day. It still floated when I sold it a couple years later.

A big downside I could see is weight. Fiberglass is thicker and heavier than a rubber membrane. I don't see it working on lightweight models where every pound is a tradeoff, but if you have enough truck it sounds like a great option!
2015 Ram CTD
2015 Jayco 29QBS

stevemorris
Explorer
Explorer
the roof is in great shape, I was surprised when we bought the tt by the solid roof
its a gulfstream x22fb btw, 2002 year
really light for its size, 3000 lb dry according to the manufacturer
2017 Ram 1500 4door, 4x4, 5.7 l hemi, 8 speed
2008 KZ Spree 260

Campfire_Time
Explorer
Explorer
I would take fiberglass. A few weeks ago I discovered a weird tear in one corner that looks like a critter was gnawing at it (we park it under a tree). That wouldn't have happened with fiberglass.
Chuck D.
โ€œAdventure is just bad planning.โ€ - Roald Amundsen
2013 Jayco X20E Hybrid
2016 Chevy Silverado Crew Cab Z71 LTZ2
2008 GMC Sierra SLE1 Crew Cab Z71 (traded)

sgip2000
Explorer
Explorer
Many big rig trailers have fiberglass roofs.