how hydraulic slide

[base1957]

How can I check to see if voltage to pump is enough m..slide is very slow..mcant find a bind, has fluid, can't find any leaks
1997 Winnebago vectra , Chevy workhorse
Thanks in advance

[base1957]

Ok...Motor arrived. Put it in and slide and jack's work. My slide has always been much slower coming in than going out. Is that the norm. It's hydraulic.

[base1957]

Jd that one has two cable posts. Mine has only one. I was excited when I first found those but they are not similar. I'm trying to. Find out if it would fit and how I would need to alter the connections. Possible that all I would have to do is drill a spot for a ground cable. I just don't know if that would have any affect on how it works. I dont see how it would.

[j-d]

For my information, does the Motor simply unbolt from the Pump and its shaft slide out of the Pump? That'd be like the power trim motors on boat engines... Or is the HWH arrangement trickier?
***
OH... Answered my own question with gOOgle "08053 Motor" and got way more hits than I expected including several around $100 on Amazon. Like this, right?

I can see where the Motor Shaft simply "notches" into the Pump. The mounting seems odd, though. Would have thought it would have mounting ears/bosses/flange. Maybe the pictured Nuts come off and the long bolts thread into the Pump?

deja vu... Earlier post I made. Noticed this motor is used on Lift Gates.

[RJsfishin]

Several years ago I had the same trouble you're having,.....slide would start to move then motor/pump would stall out. From info obtained from one of the techs here, I installed a bypass switch on the dash which......as good as I remember, grounds the motor/pump solenoid. This in turn bypasses all the safety switches in the system.
Whenever I extend or retract the slide, I have to hold the momentary bypass switch, or the slide will not work. Since I installed that switch, the slide and jacks have never fail to operate correctly. If you decide to check out this route,.....and need more info on it, email me and I will check it out as to how I connected it.

[base1957]

I think your right Doug...i can't read the sticker on top of the tank but sent a picture of the motor to Joe at Hwh.....I can read the pump motor number as it says 08053 Made in Slovenia...anyway he says he has one..so ill either get one from him or get this one rebuilt.
Thanks for the help

[dougrainer]

base1957 wrote:
Well
I replaced the solenoid and slide would move but motor just wont seem to stay running. I could get it to budge out a tad then stop. Tried the jacks. One rear jack came down, touch the ground and then go back up. After that tried the retract and very very slowly it moved enouf for me to get it back in the full retract position.
baffled i am..

20 year old system. Odds are the 12 volt pump motor is BAD. That is why the solenoid melted/burned(motor drawing excess 12 volt current). RETRACT on jacks has NOTHING to do with the solenoid you replaced or the Pump motor. In Retract, all the system does is electrically open as solenoid for that jack and the springs bring it up. I would replace BOTH solenoids(you have already replaced one so, just the other) and rebuild or replace the Pump Motor. Now, that may NOT be as easy as you think. HWH has changed the size and properties on the Pump motors in the past 20 years. You will need to get the AP number off of the Tank/reservoir, email HWH with that number and ask what motor they have or the correct replacement part. Odds are you will have to replace the Tank/Reservoir as a unit(which comes with the pump motor). If so, you can try taking the Motor off and have a local Starter rebuild shop rebuild it. Doug

https://www.hwhcorp.com/mr30.html

[base1957]

Well
I replaced the solenoid and slide would move but motor just wont seem to stay running. I could get it to budge out a tad then stop. Tried the jacks. One rear jack came down, touch the ground and then go back up. After that tried the retract and very very slowly it moved enouf for me to get it back in the full retract position.
baffled i am..

[base1957]

Thanks Doug
Jack's were were working fine. Slide use to work was fast out, slow in. Then got slower and slower coming in. Found post which hot wire from battery onto the solenoid was loose. I'm ordering the one called for by manual but I suspect I have other issues as the letter or leveling jack's worked fine.

[wa8yxm]

One advantage of HYDRAULIC slides/jacks is you can use a smaller motor/pump and move more a lot more slide (or jack) very slowly. Just so you know

This means lighter wire, less expense and less strain on the batteries. So there are very good reasons for doing this.

Of coruse you can get there with gear reduction on mechanical slides too but hydraulics.. Way easier

[j-d]

dougrainer wrote:
HWH Auto systems use 2 relays and are DIFFERENT parameters...DO NOT use any other relay other than the relay's that are designed for the system. Doug

Doug's a Master of RV Repair.

That's enough for me. What he says:

I Do.

It Works.

Crawling under to look at ours, soon.

Thanks, Doug!

[dougrainer]

HWH Auto systems use 2 relays and are DIFFERENT parameters.
1. The MASTER relay when you turn the system ON, supplies power to the SYSTEM and is built for continuous duty(HI AMP).
2. The 2nd relay is the PUMP MOTOR run relay and is designed for short duty just to run the Pump Motor.
3. DO NOT use any other relay other than the relay's that are designed for the system. Doug

[j-d]

base1957 wrote:
I hope u are right.

Me too. Did it "just happen?" Like that connection was never quite tight?

Or IS there a problem that is causing the system to draw so much more current than it was designed to and "something had to give?"

I suppose that if you replace the relay and it all operates as it used to, you could simply call it good.

Or, watchful waiting... When you run it, feel around for hot cables and connections. Dig deeper if you find such.

Or, get a DC Ammeter and measure current draw going both ways. Compare with draw when leveling. To do it right, you should have a current draw spec. I didn't look in the manual.

In any event, please let us know how it's going!

[base1957]

Will do j-d
I hope u are right. Im going to replace that solenoid as soon as it gets here. Just seems odd it would slide out easy but then. Very slow in and ultimately just stopped..I figured it would be all or nothing

[j-d]

It isn't clear to me why they used two different relays, other than convenience of mounting, maybe routing of the cables and control wiring. The first four-terminal I posted (by itself) has no "polarity." In other words, it doesn't matter which large terminal is incoming power and which feeds the pump motor. Likewise, either of the small terminals can get the control voltage, and the other can be grounded.

Check ALL the connections. With that done, new Relay in place, I'm willing to say you'll be OK again.