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BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/13/17 07:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I carry the Honda 3000 in the back of the truck towing the 5er. (Between the storage box behind the cab and the hitch. --long box truck.) I don't need a gas can--I just fill up the Honda gen ( if it needs it), when I am getting gas for the truck. Long 120v cords are no problem for voltage drop to get from the Honda to the charger(s) in the 5er.

At home I slide the 3000 off the truck onto a dolly that height, and roll that away till next time. I also take out the 5er hitch and storage box so I have a usable truck bed again.

If starting over I would have two Honda 2000s in parallel instead of the one 3000 for easier handling and more total power.


1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford 350 7.5 Gas

Kayteg1

California > Nevada

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Posted: 09/13/17 07:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You have quite a project on your mind.
I would add couple observations that I did not notice on those 4 pages.
- 12V heating elements in refrigerators usually have much smaller wattage than 120V elements, so they will stay longer on in average weather, but might turn inadequate in hot weather.
-Honda 3000is is way superior to 2000 on several levels. It is more fuel efficient, quieter and has a tank that will let it run overnight.
I bought my 3000 about 15 years ago and at the time I could carry it around alone. Now being retired, I still can pull the generator from front receiver and hoop it several feet alone.
Will I turn 80, I will think about adding wheels and build a lift for it [emoticon]
Buy a Jack Russel Terrier >>> he will keep you young. We have 3 of them.

BFL13

Victoria, BC

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Posted: 09/13/17 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"I bought my 3000 about 15 years ago and at the time I could carry it around alone. .....
Will I turn 80, I will think about adding wheels and build a lift for it
Buy a Jack Russel Terrier >>> he will keep you young. We have 3 of them"

We have Shelties that have the same (or worse) effect.

On remote start--can't see the point. The battery died in the 3000 some time after the first year (2003), and have used the pull cord ever since. (The battery costs too much to be worth it). The inverter does it all ( the microwave etc ) at any time of day, so the gen is only for when actually battery charging when there is not enough solar. Not that often really.

What's the point? At 5.30 AM and you want coffee, you can't start the gen because of noise laws, so you use the inverter. By gen hours at 9.00am, you are s, shaved, and shampooed, and dressed, so you can go out and pull the cord to start the gen to recharge the batts.

road-runner

Oregon

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Posted: 09/13/17 09:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TWH - I forgot about the lithium battery part. The charge voltages and maximum battery current comments I made are for lead acid batteries. I'm close to totally clueless about lithium battery charging details.


2009 Fleetwood Icon

TWH99

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Posted: 09/13/17 09:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

125 ADC Continuous Output at 25 degrees Centigrade (battery charger spec)

anyone know what ADC stands for?

BFL13

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Posted: 09/13/17 09:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

TWH99 wrote:

125 ADC Continuous Output at 25 degrees Centigrade (battery charger spec)

anyone know what ADC stands for?


Amps DC. IMO you are way too far into theory. Go camping with whatever set-up, see how that works, then adjust as required. Might take several trips, fine-tuning after each trip, to get to where you want to be. You get new ideas each trip.

That's how most of us got to where we are.

TWH99

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Posted: 09/13/17 10:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BFL13 – thanks for confirming ADC is Amps DC. I assumed it was but I don’t like assuming anything when it concerns electricity. A google search, prior to asking could not answer this. I am obviously a novice re: electricity but I do have down W=A*V and it’s other two variations and it makes sense to me. The nomenclature, abbreviations, specification data on equipment and how/or where it applies in all the calculations is where I get tripped up or where I don't feel sure I am interpreting everything correctly. Thus all my weird and simplistic questions. I will be investing a lot of money in a complete system so I would like to try if possible to actually understand at the most basic level (I don’t need to understand how VA is different than Watts) what equipment to buy and compatibility between all components in the system based on each item’s input and output capabilities. I understand if you are tired of answering my question but thanks for all you have offered thus far. I’ll keep asking until no one answers anymore but I think I am pretty close to having just about everything answered. Thanks again to you and everyone else on RV.NET.

Next batch of questions: Are any of these statements false?

RE: Charger – 125 Amps DC: = the charger is capable of charging the battery at a rate of 125 Amps DC

RE: Charger – Input current 18 Amps AC: = the charger can accept up to 18 Amps AC (from generator or shore power). In the case of the Honda EU2000i generator that outputs 120V/13.3A/1596W; it is 4.7 Amps short of using the charger’s 18 Amp capacity. If the charger cannot automatically detect the generators output limitations, the user should dial down the Input Current demand to 13.3 Amps or below to insure the generator is not over taxed running continuously for hours near it’s rated capacity. Theoretically, with 13.3 AC amps entering the Charger, it will output approximately 133 Amp DC at 12V to the battery bank. In practice output Voltage may be a little higher, for example 14.2 and Amps 112. The 112 will be further reduced due to the 87% efficiency of the charger and the >.95 Power Factor.

Specifications for Charger:
125 ADC Continuous Output at 25 degrees Centigrade
87% Charger Efficiency
>.95 Power Factor
18 Amps Input current at rated output (AC Amps)

* This post was edited 09/13/17 10:53pm by TWH99 *

MrWizard

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Posted: 09/13/17 10:57pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

a charger you can dial down, or one smaller than generator output
a charger that trys to draw 18 amps from a 13 amp generator, equals generator shut down or generator overload/power shut off

you can 'tax' a generator running it on the limit of its power until it gets too hot or until something else trys to run, thens its overload time

you can get 125 amps if batteries SOC 'state of charge' is low enough for them to accept it, but you will NOT maintain that rate, it will taper, and keep tapering thru out the whole charge cycle

if you are down 100 ampHrs, you can;t charge at 125 for 45 min and be full

it will take 2-3 hrs to get close to full and 6 hrs or more to reach 100%

thats why most of us charge until the charge rate drops below what the solar can provide, that changes almost daily, so its a matter of usually charge to the 90% mark with generator then switching to solar only

it depends greatly on your power use habits, and where you camp
in the woods under the trees, foggy beach, sunny desert ?


Radiate The Happy
....

Connected using Verizon and AT&T


TWH99

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Posted: 09/14/17 12:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Mrwizard for answering the questions related to differences in generator output and charger input and the practical application in the field...good stuff! The puzzle is coming together.

Question: When the Charger transitions from the fast charging rate to the next stage, let's say for example it goes to 1/2 the fast charging rate, will the Generator sense that load reduction and throttle down also to Eco Mode as long as that output is able to satisfy what the charger is asking for?

thanks Tim

* This post was edited 09/14/17 12:31am by TWH99 *

MrWizard

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Posted: 09/14/17 01:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

a honda inverter generator, running in Econ mode will use what ever throttle, little or high to match the load

it will do the same thing with out Econ mode
the difference, is that in econ it idles lower and runs at the bare minimum needed to maintain voltage at the load amps/watts being used

with econ OFF it idles faster and the applied run power is slightly higher than the minimum needed, it will ramp up faster when more load is applied, than when in econ mode AKA response time to load increase is faster with econ OFF

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