Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: Leave the emergency(parking) brake off?
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 > Leave the emergency(parking) brake off?

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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 09/07/17 09:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fulltimers wrote:

Use your parking brake, that's what it is intended for.
Forget changing brake fluid, it's such a pain it the...you know what.
My car has over 160,000 miles on it and still has the original brake fluid.
What's the problem?


Kinda like playing Rusian rullete and never catching the bullet.
The "problem" has been explained.
Whether you want to heed the warning and save yourself some money is entirely up to you.


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j-d

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Posted: 09/07/17 11:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If, for example, chassis e E450 2000-2007 (or E-Super Duty 1997-99) and no doubt at lot of Class A, the parking brake is a drum at the back of the transmission. If it sticks the driveshaft won't turn, but no effect on the rear calipers.


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garyemunson

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Posted: 09/08/17 05:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As for the 'rolling the dice' comment, it's much more likely for them to stick in the on position as releasing is just the removing of the engagement pressure as opposed to the pretty strong force you can apply with your foot to engage them. If their condition has deteriorated to the point of seizing up, they will do so the first time you normally step on the brake. All that retracts disk pads is what little axial runout exists in the rotor. Not like old drum brakes with strong retraction springs. The best thing of course is to just get out RVing on a regular basis. That's what you bought the thing for! I always set mine as I know I'll be heading out in a week or two even if just for an overnight camp in my 'portable fort'! I've also been a mechanic all my life and have always thought changing brake fluid every 5 years or so was a good idea. Ford's 2 year interval seems a little overkill but, hey, they have the engineers. If I changed the fluid in my 2 year old Winne, I suspect it would still look like new. I lived in Florida most of my life and was always concerned about moisture getting absorbed into the fluid. Standard brake fluid was designed to absorb water so it would be distributed throughout the system to prevent it from concentrating in one spot to attack the metal parts. Each time I would change the fluid (pretty easy to do and if done right, far simpler than actually bleeding air out), what came out was dark and nasty looking. I'd continue to run the fluid through until it was coming out new looking. Once I got in that habit, I found I rarely had to change wheel cylinders or calipers anymore.

* This post was edited 09/08/17 05:27am by garyemunson *

Sam Spade

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Posted: 09/08/17 06:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fulltimers wrote:


My car has over 160,000 miles on it and still has the original brake fluid.
What's the problem?


Well THAT swings the pendulum of obsessive behavior in the OTHER direction.

Are you really saying that during all of that 160k miles it has never needed any major brake work ? Really ??

I subscribe to "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." so I don't change brake fluid until some other major brake work needs to be done.

P.S. In 1972 my Dad bought a new GMC pickup. When I got it, about 2005, it had EVERYTHING ORIGINAL, including tires with low mileage. Just about the time I decided to catch up on the neglected maintenance, a friend let it run low on oil and it threw a rod.

Just because people occasionally get away with stupid stuff like that doesn't mean that it is a good idea.

ScottG

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Posted: 09/08/17 10:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

garyemunson wrote:

All that retracts disk pads is what little axial runout exists in the rotor.


The rubber seal for the pistons are designed to roll slightly and then roll back when pressure is release. That is what causes the pistons to return and allow the pads to retract.

Chum lee

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Posted: 09/08/17 10:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:



My test is to put transmission in neutral. If it starts to roll set the parking brake. After you verify the parking brake is holding the vehicle then put transmission into park.


BINGO!

Then, ALWAYS take the transmission out of park (to put it into drive or reverse) before you release the parking brake just prior to taking off.

Chum lee

time2roll

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Posted: 09/08/17 10:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am amazed how many think the invention of the parking pawl was to make the parking brake obsolete. Most seem to think it is just a Federal mandated 'emergency brake' that no-one actually needs to use.

"Why does the transmission make that 'bang' when I pull it out of park on my sloped driveway"


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rhagfo

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Posted: 09/08/17 11:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

time2roll wrote:

I am amazed how many think the invention of the parking pawl was to make the parking brake obsolete. Most seem to think it is just a Federal mandated 'emergency brake' that no-one actually needs to use.

"Why does the transmission make that 'bang' when I pull it out of park on my sloped driveway"


X2!! [emoticon]
Using Just the transmission parking pawl, to hold a motor home on any surface is just crazy!
I have a manual TV and two automatic cars, I set the parking brake on all three every time!

I think at one time or another all the car makers have issues recalls for automatic transmission not fully engaging and popping out of park and rolling and causing damage, injury or even death.


Russ & Paula
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ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 09/08/17 11:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

At the most, that parking pin is about the size of a carpenter pencil and usually much smaller. I have seen many broken.
It isn't meant to hold the MH or any type of vehicle especially on any kind of incline.

Also, you should set the parking brake FIRST and then put it in park so there's on load on the pawl and so it wont bind.

ernie1

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Posted: 09/08/17 04:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Once upon a time I was working on the transmission of my 1974 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and while I had the pan off gazed at this little round piece of metal that was maybe 3/8" in diameter and was shocked to learn that that was the parking pawl. REALLY?

Then there was the idiot who was stuck at the marina where he had loaded his boat back onto his trailer but couldn't get it out of park because he had rolled down the ramp and when the trailer was in the right position, slammed the shift lever into park without setting the parking brakes. What a fool.

Of course there was my neighbor who "never uses the parking brake". "What for?" This is the same person that complained long and loud that a brake job cost him +$800 (35 years ago) because the calipers had to be replaced each time (this happened twice). He had a 1989 Buick Riveria which had parking brakes that involved a mechanism that engaged the piston in the caliper each time it was set. Turns out if one doesn't use the parking brakes, the caliper piston corrodes in place and the brake pedal gets lower and lower.

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