Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum: Class C Motorhomes: dashboard A/C on the fritz
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classctioga73

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Posted: 09/06/17 12:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I own a 2000 Tioga class C on a Ford V10 chassis.On our way home from a camping trip yesterday I was running the chassis/dashboard air conditioner because it was warm outside, like 90-95 degrees. it was putting out cold air and then all of a sudden it went warm air. I turned it off and dealt with the heat for about an hour, I turned the A/C back on and it was cold air for about 15 minutes. this was the situation until I got home. Thank god the coach A/C was working but had to run the generator all the way home.

Does anyone know what the issue could be? am i just low on refrigerant? does it need a new charge of refrigerant? is the evaporator bad?

any help would be appreciated.

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Posted: 09/06/17 02:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I thought I noticed something similar on a previous trip, almost like the fan stopped working for a while then started up again. Last trip didn't notice anything, but wasn't that hot so I didn't use it that much. A number of years ago had the AC quit working on one of my cars, several days across country with no air. Turns out it was a bad AC switch. AC charge can be checked with an ac gauge attached to a freon can at the auto parts store. Check the electric clutch on the compressor, you can hear/see it engage. Is the drive belt in good shape? Most places that do AC charging will do ford e-series motorhomes.


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Posted: 09/06/17 02:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did the blower stop blowing, or perhaps the direction of airflow went to Defrost? Going to defrost mode under load is a known issue on Ford chassis, usually caused by a vacuum leak, bad vacuum reservoir, or bad vacuum check valve in the HVAC control system.


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Tiger4x4RV

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Posted: 09/06/17 03:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Chevy did something similar a few times on long extremely hot drives. A/C kept blowing, but starting putting out boiling hot air. If I stopped, turned off the engine, and restarted in a couple of minutes, usually I got cold air again. Googling around said it might be a stuck blend door in the A/C system. I never did anything about having it repaired and it hasn't happened for several years.

If you get cold air at all, you still have refrigerant in your system.


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klutchdust

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Posted: 09/06/17 05:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Tiger4x4RV wrote:

My Chevy did something similar a few times on long extremely hot drives. A/C kept blowing, but starting putting out boiling hot air. If I stopped, turned off the engine, and restarted in a couple of minutes, usually I got cold air again. Googling around said it might be a stuck blend door in the A/C system. I never did anything about having it repaired and it hasn't happened for several years.

If you get cold air at all, you still have refrigerant in your system.


Quite possibly the compressor is shutting down due to air in the system causing high head pressure or the clutch is disengaging after it gets hot. . Refrigeration/air conditioning systems do not use freon like an engine uses oil. If it is low on freon it leaked out somewhere. There are also possibilities with pressure switches. Try to locate the sight glass and look for air bubbles, you should not have any, it should be clear. Check around air conditioning fittings for oil seepage, that is an indicator of a leak. As was said, if you still get cold air your charge is good, your electrical components need checking.

Photomike

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Posted: 09/06/17 06:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my truck camper I had a noise one year when traveling and nothing happened. The next year same noise and the air conditioning stopped working. Everything continued on but the air was hot - zero cold, a few minutes later it was back. A couple minutes after that it was off again and never came back on. We returned home and took to my mechanic and he said the bearings on one of the pulleys went and caused the belt to stop turning, replaced pulley, tightened belt and all was fine again.


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j-d

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Posted: 09/07/17 03:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your Heat Vent Air Condition (HVAC) has vacuum control for Mode Selection. Face, Floor, Vent, Recirc, Defrost, etc. Notice I left out Temperature. That's controlled by an electric motor managed by some electronics. The motor looks like this [image]where that white button looking thing is the outboard end of a shaft that positions the Blend Door. I show the connector side to let you see it's electric not vacuum.

The Heater Core runs full hot full time. So does the A/C Evaporator. The Blend Door "Blends" those two extremes to give you the feeling you desire by turning the knob from Blue to Red.

So it's possible something is causing that Blend Motor to go to extremes. That and a couple A/C issues that others'll probably cover.


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classctioga73

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Posted: 09/09/17 03:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

J-d
Where is this part located under the hood or behind the setting knobs

klutchdust

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Posted: 09/09/17 03:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

classctioga73 wrote:

J-d
Where is this part located under the hood or behind the setting knobs



I just looked it up on u tube using these key words blend door removal 2000 Ford E450

There is a video, many actually, that shows it behind the glove box. Access and removal takes a minute or two. He said that video covers Ford heavy duty models up to 2007.

classctioga73

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Posted: 09/09/17 03:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So this morning I took the rv for a ride. It blew cold air for about 5 minutes then just regular temperature air. I turned the knob to off and tried to turn it back on and no air came out at all. I turned the setting to floor and it worked. I turned the knob to off and back to vent and no air, then I turned it to floor and no air
Are these symptoms all related to a bad blend door box??

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