black water tank replacement

[traveler1970]

Just bought a 1974 Prowler, the black water tank is cracked beyond repair, I would like to build a custom stainless steel replacement, will that work or do I need to replace with a plastic one?
Thank You in advance for your input.

[Huntindog]

westend wrote:

#3 might be the biggest headache. All the plumbing I have seen is ABS componenets. Mating that to the stainless could be a challenge

Actually, installing bulkhead fittings in a metal tank makes transition to any other plumbing material easy.

The closet flange in all the trailers I've seen have an intermediate piece of pipe between tank and flange. One would have to have a tank at floor height to have a closet flange directly on the tank.

I did not say the toilet flange connects directly to the tank.

But that there is an ABS fitting that is glued onto the tank, and the ABS pipe or flange is connected to that. IIRCC, on mine it was glued and inserted into the ABS fitting on the tank.

Not sure how else it could be done, as you are working thru the hole in the floor that the toilet uses.

Now on a new build, there could be other options.

[westend]

#3 might be the biggest headache. All the plumbing I have seen is ABS componenets. Mating that to the stainless could be a challenge

Actually, installing bulkhead fittings in a metal tank makes transition to any other plumbing material easy.

The closet flange in all the trailers I've seen have an intermediate piece of pipe between tank and flange. One would have to have a tank at floor height to have a closet flange directly on the tank.

[Huntindog]

My first TT was a 75 Prowler. My black and grey tanks both sort of disintegrated from age.
They were made of a type of plastic that resembled milk jug plastic.

That stuff doesn't age well. My replacements were the newer ABS plastic ones. I upgraded capacities while I was at it. Those tanks will out last that TT.
I can think of no advantages, and some disadvantages in using stainless.
1. cost
2. weight
3. plumbing it.


#3 might be the biggest headache. All the plumbing I have seen is ABS componenets. Mating that to the stainless could be a challenge

You need to consider the toilet flange. All the ones I have seen glue to the tank. I do not know of a way to do that reliably to a stainless tank. If that comes loose..... Big mess. The vent can be a grommett, though probably not what you will find at the RV store. Those will be for a thicker ABS tank material.
And the dump pipe could maybe be hooked up with some sort of rubber pipe clamp setup, if the size needed can be found.
This could be a trouble spot down the road.

I would just use an ABS tank, and all of the easily obtainable fittings that are normally used.

[traveler1970]

okay, I am building my own tank, yes I am a metal fabricator.

[time2roll]

How bad is bad? post a picture?

[traveler1970]

westend wrote:

traveler1970 wrote:
Anyone ever pull a black water tank? How does it connect to the toilet etc.? Do I have to pul the toilet first? Thanks for your input.

There can be differences in tank construction. Yes, you'll need to detach the drain pipe from the closet flange that your toilet connects to, hence, toilet removal. Also, the vent stack. Mine had a threaded fitting into the tank and a threaded connection to the closet flange w/pipe. The vent had a threaded connection to the tank. Some tanks have a grommet connection into the tank that the drain and vent pipe pass through. Since I relocated my toilet and vent stack, my black tank now has two new grommets in the top of the tank.

After I relocated these, I plugged off the original vent with a threaded pipe plug and the original toilet drain has a smaller piece of pipe and a cleanout cap. Should I have a tank clog, I can use the cleanout to access the tank's insides.

Excellent, Thank You

[westend]

traveler1970 wrote:
Anyone ever pull a black water tank? How does it connect to the toilet etc.? Do I have to pul the toilet first? Thanks for your input.

There can be differences in tank construction. Yes, you'll need to detach the drain pipe from the closet flange that your toilet connects to, hence, toilet removal. Also, the vent stack. Mine had a threaded fitting into the tank and a threaded connection to the closet flange w/pipe. The vent had a threaded connection to the tank. Some tanks have a grommet connection into the tank that the drain and vent pipe pass through. Since I relocated my toilet and vent stack, my black tank now has two new grommets in the top of the tank.

After I relocated these, I plugged off the original vent with a threaded pipe plug and the original toilet drain has a smaller piece of pipe and a cleanout cap. Should I have a tank clog, I can use the cleanout to access the tank's insides.

[traveler1970]

Anyone ever pull a black water tank? How does it connect to the toilet etc.? Do I have to pul the toilet first? Thanks for your input.

[Bumpyroad]

unless you get free materials and can do all of the welding, etc., yourself, it is a bad idea.
bumpy

[traveler1970]

All good points to consider, thanks everyone for your thoughts.

[garyemunson]

Apparently the original plastic tank held in there 40+ years. Planning on keeping it longer than that? I'd go with a new plastic one. Properly installed it's not something that's often a problem.

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

SS is very heavy. I would go with a plastic replacement.

[westend]

Stainless won't be cheap and not much advantage over ABS plastic. I've bought some fittings from these guys and they seemed very good on customer service, no probs: Tank Depot.

Good luck with the tank!

[darsben1]

You are free to do as you wish. The weight if you are towing might be a factor depending on how big and the gauge of the steel.
Are you going to be towing or is this on a permanent site?