Trimark latch with twin keyholes: lubrication

[Harvey51]

The handle was really hard to open after unlocking. Getting more so with time. I took it off the door to have a good look. Three torx 14 screws from inside the MH and two more at the latch. Lubricated with a lithium white grease spray can in several places but the one that fixed it was in plain sight with no need to take out any screws.

Note the white grease on the plastic lever.

I had previous trouble with the handle lock (not the deadbolt) slipping into the locked position on its own. I worked on the inside half of the mechanism, welding the part that pushes the bolt in. I noticed the weld had failed so added some construction glue to hold the shiny lever. This photo is rotated 90 degrees clockwise, sorry.

I also removed the inside lock handle so we wouldn't accidentally overcome the glue and lock it. Another reason for getting rid of the second lock was to avoid fumbling around in a middle of the night emergency. And one key less.

On reassembly, I used Robertson screws so I don't have to carry a torx set with me. I found the screws in the stove bolt section at the hardware store. Had to cut the two for the latch on the door edge a little shorter.

[Bordercollie]

Have typical Trimark deadbolt and regular lock with paddle handle. Lower lock started sticking in unlocked position. Asked locksmith what is best to unstick the mechanism, was told that WD-40 was as good as any. Shot lock with WD-40, didn't help. Looked at original Trimark key, it looked worn. Tried wife's key, lock worked normally. Had new key and a spare made. Went around and shot cab door locks and hinges and electric side mirrors with WD-40, will shoot all compartment door locks with it too.

[Kamphiker]

I use Tri-Flow Lubricant

[Harvey51]

Graphite spray may be obsolete now. It was always tricky to avoid black messes. Now there is a new lock lubricant spray that is clear in hardware stores. Hopefully more than half of it can be sprayed out of the can.

On the padlocks, try silicone lube spray. On our trip in the spring when we arrived at our first campsite the cargo compartment door lock was seized up. One squirt in the key hole and a ten minute wait solved the problem.

[AJR]

DustyR

Other than a locksmith, locksmith graphite may work.

The lock to my back door at the house is 27 years old. It started with the key being hard to go into the lock. Several puffs of graphite solved the problem.

[Dusty_R]

If I may I'd like to borrow this thread.
I have a pair of new pad locks that are keyed alike and are key retention, key will only come out when they are locked.
The problem is that even when they are locked the key comes out very hard. One needs to really work at it to get the key to come out.
Any suggestions to make them work easier?

Thanks,
Dusty

[ron_dittmer]

Liquid graphite is the official stuff to use for the keyhole tumblers, but I like the cleanliness and effectiveness of the silicone spray.

[Harvey51]

For sure, no grease or oil should go into the keyhole except in a last resort where you will be disassembling and washing the sticky stuff out with alcohol.

I didn't grease the lock - just plastic levers and a wee bit into the bolts.

[AJR]

I try to use locksmith graphite on lock mechanisms first. If that doesn’t work then lithium.

[ron_dittmer]

Since we are on the topic....

We have an entry door handle just like yours but with a second lockset for a dead bolt that used a different key which was very inconvenient, especially after dark. I removed the assembly and took it to our local locksmith who re-key'd one lock to match the other so now one key works both locks. I did the same for the spare tire lock because it was different from all the other outdoor compartment locks.

We went from 5 keys to 3 keys. The 3rd key is the Ford key. All keys have their own shape for easy identification day or night. No more fumbling through keys and less bulk in my pocket.