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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 810 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: SmartRVControls

I have to fix her computer every couple months and she's had that 15 years or more. Had this conversation with my adult son, guess my days coming. 15yr old? What do you have to oil the hand crank?
valhalla360 06/06/20 10:56am Technology Corner
RE: Suburban Water Heater electric heating element question

Keep in mind, it's not uncommon for the gas and electric indoor switches not to be next to each other. So if you have another switch that you don't know what it feeds, it might be the indoor electric. Also, confirm that the water heater breaker is on.
valhalla360 06/06/20 10:51am Tech Issues
RE: Need tow vehicle - preferably under 10k

Also, is there any range/restriction on mileage or how old the vehicle model should be if we get a 3/4 or 1 ton pick up? In my price range, we are looking at vehicles between 2002-2008 with mileage of 170k+. Also, this is a bit vague, but would any 2500 pull it? I would definitely look at the numbers and axle etc, but, in general, would they tow better than our expedition? A couple years back we picked up a nice no rust 2008 V10 F250 with 120k miles. No issues to speak of for the last 2 years. I'm sure if you do a little looking, you won't be stuck with a 2002 with 170k miles for $10k. The biggest issue with suburbans & vans is finding them as there aren't many produced. If you can find a nice one in your price range, go for it but the 4 door pickups have largely come to dominate the RV towing market. I think with relatively short 200 mile travel days, if you can find a 3/4 ton with a bench front seat it's a reasonable option. Then again how old are they? If they are stuck in car seats, a van/suburban isn't going to be a whole log better. Yes even with the 3/4 ton trucks it's worth running the numbers for a specific truck. With 6 of you plus presumably bikes, firewood, the truck, it is still very much possible to exceed the payload rating of the truck
valhalla360 06/06/20 09:08am Tow Vehicles
RE: Need tow vehicle - preferably under 10k

Are they long trips distance wise? A 4 door 3/4 ton with a front bench seat will handle 6 comfortably especially if they are younger and smaller. At about 10yr old, there are plenty of options that will do nicely. A full size body on frame van is also a good option but not a lot of them around.
valhalla360 06/06/20 05:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Generic questions about 5-ers

No climbing involved. What climbing do you do hooking up your 5th wheel? Maybe we are doing something wrong and we should be climbing.
valhalla360 06/05/20 06:02pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: First tow results

So what are the specs on the before and after trucks?
valhalla360 06/05/20 05:56pm Tow Vehicles
RE: To buy or not to buy insurance?

$600 seems high but vehicle insurance does vary by state so maybe that's legit. We pay around $200/yr also.
valhalla360 06/05/20 01:24pm Travel Trailers
RE: Generic questions about 5-ers

I am sure I will have a TON of questions during our shopping, but one that comes to mind right now - I had thought we needed a diesel truck, but someone mentioned the newer gas trucks will work as well. If this is the case I can save a lot of money - not only on the truck but maintenance as well. Thoughts? Depends: - Our first setup was a 9500lb (loaded) 5er. We had an old F250 with a 180hp diesel that did just fine. Modern gas engines have twice the HP. It will rev higher but otherwise it will be fine. - We have friends with a 40ft 5th wheel/toy hauler (20k lb range) and a late model diesel dually. After their first trip in the mountains, they are debating if they made the right choice. Of course, I questioned if they had enough truck when they brought that monster home...but it wasn't my place to call them out. If you are down below 10-12k lb, a gas truck should be fine. By the time you hit 15k lb, I would prefer a diesel for the extra power. Two follow up thoughts: - Most people worry about gas because gas engines develop peak HP at higher RPM and they get scared running at 3500rpm. Assuming the engine is in proper running order, it won't hurt anything. - In the mountains, diesels really do offer a big advantage since all the modern ones are turbo charged (our 180hp diesel was not and it showed). As you go up in altitude, you lose about 3-4% of power per 1000ft of altitude due to thinner air. At 7000ft, you can be down by 25% on HP. A turbo largely cancels that out by force feeding more air into the engine. Also most of the newer diesels have some form of exhaust brake which makes coming down the mountain more comfortable.
valhalla360 06/05/20 01:19pm Fifth-Wheels

What gear can't you use? If you are on a 30amp site, you can still use the extra 30amp cord, then connect the dogbone to that before going into the 50amp cord.
valhalla360 06/05/20 07:32am General RVing Issues
RE: SmartRVControls

Being older and cautious I watch my slides go out and in from the switchboard with my eyes and ears wide open. I suppose we are even more cautious: - I stand outside and watch to make sure it won't hit anything. - She checks for conflicts on the inside and operates the button. We've had stuff fall and roll behind the slides and a cabinet door that opened. Way to easy to cause damage for me to trust that as is well sitting in the drivers seat.
valhalla360 06/05/20 07:31am Technology Corner
RE: Generic questions about 5-ers

so Pin weight should be a spec on the fiver right and what spec does that correlate to on the truck? (Tongue, carrying capacity?) I see specs for hitch weight, is that pin weight? And then I have all kinds of questions about non -static load. So a pin weight of x is increased by things like braking right? How is that factored? in short, what's the easiest way to say that this truck can pull this FW? Hitch weight and pin weight are interchangeable on 5ers. It's the force pushing down on the hitch when stationary. They will often list an unloaded pin weight but no one travels unloaded. When you load up, the pin weight will increase. Specifically items placed ahead of the wheels will add to the pin weight and items behind will reduce the pin weight. Ideally, you want the pin weight to be around 20-25% of the trailer weight. This is why 5ers don't need weight distributing hitches and sway control like bumper pull trailers. (semis for example typically run around 50% pin weight but that's not practical for a pickup. Best to assume a percentage of the GVWR as a starting point. Don't worry about dynamic vs static load. Yes, dynamic loading will be higher than static but the engineers already took that into account when setting the load limits. To determine if a truck can handle (pull has an incorrect connotation), you need to look at a few criteria. - Tow Rating: This is rarely the limiting factor. Also there is typically a separate 5th wheel tow rating form the manufacturer. - Payload: This includes the pin weight and anything else in the truck including passengers. - RAWR: As the pin weight sits directly over the rear axle, all the pin weight winds up on the rear axle. Keep in mind, other gear in the truck bed is largely going on the rear axle also.
valhalla360 06/05/20 04:57am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Generic questions about 5-ers

My in-laws were going to buy a fifth wheel and after a trip my family made to Yellowstone, here is the advice I gave them. My mother in-law is very upiddy, and likes first class service. I told them that I could not see her bouncing down the road in the front seat of a dually, setting up camp, or waiting while the truck and trailer are level, unhooked, slides out, etc for her to do her thing. I think for them, a Diesel pusher made the most sense. Drive down the road in comfort, use the bath, kitchen, whatever while moving. Pull in to a spot, level the MH, slides out, plug in and you are ready. Not to mention onboard generator for boon-docking, etc. For them a car trailer made sense since they have the choice of an SUV or sports car to take with them depending on the destination. You don't per chance sell diesel pushers on the side? Why would they bounce down the road in a diesel dually? The new trucks while not early 70's cadillac smooth are really quite plush and comfortable. Even more so when hooked up and towing. You have to set up camp with either unit and it's really not much different. Both have to be leveled, unhooked and slides out. (you know you can get that on modern 5th wheels, right?) PS: they also can come with onboard generators in the modern world. If she is that uppity, why would she be making something in the kitchen...sorry that was just a joke, it's a very minor benefit of course but if you are full timing, you don't need to hammer out 12-14hr travel days, so why not stop every couple hours anyway or limit driving days to 2-4hr of travel.
valhalla360 06/05/20 04:48am Fifth-Wheels
RE: 2008 F250 Manual Extending Mirrors

be careful with usind wd 40 aws it attacks some plastics. I would say to use a silicon spray instead. Went with the dry lube.
valhalla360 06/04/20 04:02pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2008 F250 Manual Extending Mirrors

Got the upper arm to move a little (1/4inch) in and out but the lower is still rock solid after hitting it with the spray lube.
valhalla360 06/04/20 02:59pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2008 F250 Manual Extending Mirrors

I would try spraying some WD up in the sliding part. That may loosen it up some. Did it slide before? Thanks! No we picked it up last fall and wound up not towing with it till this spring. Never thought to check if the mirrors extend since they are simply a friction fit. I'll try the WD-40.
valhalla360 06/04/20 01:39pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2008 F250 Manual Extending Mirrors

That plastic expands and contracts with the weather. Use Armerall on's petroleum based, and will make the black plastic shine like new. Not trying to get it shiney...trying to get it unstuck.
valhalla360 06/04/20 11:20am Tow Vehicles
RE: Generic questions about 5-ers

My only experience with owning RV's is Class A motor homes. As we look to part time next year (3-6 mos at a time) I am looking at new MH's. But I am curious about fifth wheels. They certainly offer more space to full or part time in but I know next to nothing about them. I know I would need a truck big enough but as I start to explore if it's even option I want to pursue I had a few questions. Forgive me if they've been asked before and excuse my complete ignorance - looking to educate myself. Are they hard to maneuver, park, drive, navigating gas stations etc? When you account for having a toad it's a wash. Some things are easier, some harder. Mostly just different. Of course, you never have to go to a gas station with the 5er attached. You always have to take the motorhome when you fill the motorhome. If I get something like an f250 diesel, what would mileage be? We got 13mpg long term average when we had an old 7.3l Ford pulling a 9500lb 5er. Newer ones with all the emissions might be a bit worse but generally better by a good margin over class A motorhomes. How are grades navigated? Pretty much the same assuming you are comparing apples to apples. A new diesel dually will likely outperform a gasser MH. The newer trucks have exhaust brakes and built in brake controllers, they are really nice machines and 5ers tow really nice. what's set up like? I always laugh when people say a MH saves them time. Assuming it's set up with the same toys (like auto leveling systems), there really is no difference to speak of. You still have to connect to the same utilities, you still have to hook up for towing (toad in the case of MH). It's just not an issue. How hard is it to break camp and travel? See last entry. Quality is always suspect but what are the standard issues? Pretty much same as you would find in a MH (unless you are comparing to top of the line diesel pushers but then you have to compare to top of the line custom 5ers...I don't have experience with either) Care/maintenance? Same as a MH for the house but you only have one drive train to take care of. DW worries about them flipping over and taking the truck with it in an accident, wind or uneven terrain. is that risk real? Sure, anything is possible but relative to a MH not much difference in risk. Anything you would be comfortable taking the MH out in, you can comfortably take the 5er out in. I could go on, but already that's a lot of questions. Thanks - any input is helpful. As someone else mentioned, when comparing, an equivilent 5er is likely 4-6ft shorter because you aren't losing space to the cockpit area. If the engine dies, it's easy to find a new pickup just about anywhere. MH, you have a much bigger item to replace. Towing a 5er is usually limited by payload and figure 20-25% of the trailer weight is on the hitch, so 3/4 ton trucks can be marginal if you want a big trailer. A 15k lb trailer will likely have a pin weight north of 3,000lb. Up above 14k lb, my preference (others feel differently) is you are looking at 1 ton truck territory and probably dually.
valhalla360 06/04/20 10:48am Fifth-Wheels
2008 F250 Manual Extending Mirrors

Went to extend the mirrors a week ago. The passenger side slid out slightly stiff but nothing to be concerned with. I've since worked it a few times while rinsing with water and it now seems normal. Drivers side, after several tries and it felt like I was going to rip the entire assembly off. The whole truck was rocking. I finally gave up and drove with it in. Any ideas how to free it up without breaking it?
valhalla360 06/04/20 10:29am Tow Vehicles
RE: Supplemental AC

Can you close off bedroom/bathroom and shut the vents to those areas? DIY improvements to insulation - vent pillows, seal holes, make sure slides are sealing well, clear plastic window covers, etc... Upgrading to 15k btu is a marginal upgrade for significant cost. Adding additional air/con units is problematic with only 30amp. If you aren't careful, it's really easy to overload the electrical system.
valhalla360 06/04/20 06:44am Travel Trailers
RE: In bed diesel tanks

Don't forget to account for it when considering payload. a 50gal metal tank is going to eat up around 500lb of payload when full.
valhalla360 06/04/20 04:29am Tow Vehicles
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