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RE: Florida

We own a condo near Cocoa Beach - we are watching the numbers and praying they will go down this fall. And they very well might if these idiots would find something else to do instead of congregating and protesting over masks and the like. I suppose they don't wear seat belts, are still texting, and refusing to wear a shirt and or shoes, in the stores as well, eh?. I mean it's always the same 10% for causing hate and discontent at every excuse. Having said all that, it shouldn't keep you from coming down and it's no different here, than anywhere else, if you'll just follow good common sense. Thanks for the rant, by the way!
tropical36 07/28/20 02:32pm Around the Campfire
RE: Koni vs Bilstein

OK, it's a 2006 National Seabreeze, F53 chassis. As stated in my last thread, I've got it handling great, however, still rides pretty rough. Was on the NY thruway today, and was a bit rough, then got to I-79 to head south, and though yes, this is way mo'betta. BUT, the closer I got to Pittsburg, the rougher the ride, until about 20 miles north. At that point, the road was hammering us. Doors were coming open, and twice my cruise kicked off. Even slowed down to 55, but still was vicious. The original owner replaced the OEM shocks 5 years ago with Bilsteins. I recall from racing days the Bilsteins were always "firm". So the question; has anyone replaced the Bilsteins with the 5-way Konis, and was there a significant difference? I'm not looking for the "buy a DP" answer, as we otherwise love the MH and it's going nowhere. So anyone out there done this? If I could get a 20-30% ride improvement I'd do it. I'm just not ready to sink $12k into a liquid suspension upgrade right now. Thanks in advance! Al How much if any, are you over PSI from what your inflation chart says, for each of your axle weights? Don't think shock brands will turn thing around all that much, either way, although giving my druthers, I'd opt for the Koni's.
tropical36 07/27/20 02:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: House Batteries

Have 2017 Thor ACE, battery dead, jumped started and let run for about an hour. Unplugged from 30amp electrical while in RV barn. Few days later went out to Thor and discovered house batteries are dead...Pretty sure they are "new" still and should be working. Any insights would be helpful (New to RVing) After charging disconnect the neg. leads and if they stay charged, then something is pulling them down in storage, which is usually the case and quite common.
tropical36 07/27/20 02:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Operators manual

Tiffin Allegro 1986. We have all the manuals for everything inside and out for our vintage motorhome except the operators manual. Have searched and searched to no avail. Tiffin doesn't even have resources for it. There are numerous people looking for one. Need a manual for all the functions of dash, levelers etc.. People actually read those things and since when?
tropical36 07/27/20 02:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Florida

Are you going to Florida this fall with the COVID 19 down there? Thanks I'm already here and don't see the problem, with isolating one's self, reasonably. For those who are suicidal and for being responsible for the infected numbers that we now have, not too much we can do about that except for blocking their path in some instances, which is now being done.
tropical36 07/27/20 02:37pm Around the Campfire
RE: Ford V10

^^^ Exactly. Its a wonder they live at all. When you think about the numbers its an engineering marvel. No nothing of their reputation for longivity, but.... The Aston Martin Valkyrie has the highest redline of a piston-engine road car rated at 11,100 rpm. The Renesis in the Mazda RX-8 has the highest redline of a production rotary-engine road car rated at 9000 rpm.
tropical36 07/17/20 07:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

I know everyone says the V10 likes to rev, but man I just personally can't let myself keep her above 4k rpms for any extended time, it's just so.. well.. revvy I guess. If it makes you feel any better, I regularly hang out near 5,000 RPM, sometimes for 15-20 min at a time. When pulling heavy loads over the mountains, I just lock in low gear (2nd on mine, which is equivalent to 3rd on the 5R110) and let it hang out there. Then when I need to ease up for tight curves or slow traffic, i immediately catch right back up where I was (usually 58-62 MPH). My combined weight is 22-25,000 pounds. I replaced the first motor at 458,000 miles because of a warped a valve seat letting it run lean after the fuel filter plugged (my tune contributed, but my tuner took a bath that same weekend so I couldn't go back to stock). I also had the Banks PowerPack on since around 120,000 miles. All other cylinders still had in-spec compression, and the cross-hashing was clearly visible when I scoped it! And my 4R100 is still original with 483,000 miles! It absolutely amazes me, when I try to imagine in my mind the flutter of moving parts going on inside one of these engines. And not for an hour or two, but day after day and year after year. A big Diesel at 1500 - 2100 rpm's maybe, but for 4 - 5K, it's mind boggling.
tropical36 07/14/20 03:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

I know everyone says the V10 likes to rev, but man I just personally can't let myself keep her above 4k rpms for any extended time, it's just so.. well.. revvy I guess. When the hill is that steep, I manually drop it to a lower gear, keep it right at 4k and cruise on up. Not floored, just cruising along but not letting it upshift. Yup, I get passed by other folks, but I'd only save maybe 5 minutes on the day if I kept WOT instead of limited to 4k. It's a big load for a smallish engine. Yeah, I can feel your pain somewhat and even though it's said, that you can't hurt it and in fact the engine loves it. I used to do what you're describing with our old coach and for having a GM with a tranny that wasn't made to handle a heavy toad. Not because it didn't have the power, but for the tranny wanting to overheat. Either way, low gear at 25mph takes care of it and yes, you might be 5 minutes late getting into a spot for the night. Oh my!
tropical36 07/14/20 10:44am Class A Motorhomes
RE: ABS Light On

OK so I had the MH (2004 HR Vacationer PCT) in storage since last October. Started it and ran the generator every couple of weeks. Hadn't driven it until today - wanting to drive from Florida to Michigan in two days. Went to fill the gas tank and it ran great both ways and stopped fine also. Got back to where I am setting it for two days to ready for the trip and the ABS light came on right as I was pulling onto a site (we are in a campground) to hook up power. I drove it back and forth a few times and the brakes seem to work fine but the light stays on. I shut it off and restarted - same thing. Don't know what might have happened over the past 8-9 months so hoping that someone might have some thoughts. Thanks gang! Could be just a sensor quirk too, so trying disconnecting the chassis batteries for a bit and for seeing if it clears.
tropical36 07/14/20 10:30am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2009 WINNEBAGO Tour

I'm looking to buy my first DP and a friend offered to sell me this one in excellent condition. I have heard bad things about Winnebago quality issues in later models. Was the quality of Winnebago still decent in 2009? Thank you for your input. Depends, but by 09 we were in the great recession. Unless we were to be buying new, which we never do, we cut off off our search with 07 with an 06 chassis and engine. Not only for quality of construction, but for emission control standards and for wanting some tried and proven old school. Things like Aqua hot and DEF didn't have my interest. We did convert the fridge to a residential type compressor model, however. That we like better and since we do have the battery power and inverter for it. I'm thinking that you could drop back a couple of more years and for getting better quality, by first looking for a side radiator chassis and then for making a floor plan choice. Just don't buy an 07 Cat engine for one thing. Having said all this, it's always about the money, when it comes down to it and you haven't said what you can steal this coach for, so....... By the way, I'm thinking that the Tour probably has a side radiator, so don't make the mistake of getting another with a rear model chassis.
tropical36 07/14/20 10:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford V10

This question is for those that have a Ford V10 in a class A. I have a 2007 Allergo 32BA with the Ford V10 that only has 36,000 miles on it & I took it to mountains of Western NC this week, and it seemed weak on pulling power, I tried to keep the RMP's below 4000, and at time's I was down to 40 mph, I was pulling a 2003 Honda Element...it this normal? Story short, leave your speed control on and let her scream. This is probably the best argument for a DP and for having the brute slightly more than idling at 1500 rpm while pulling your toad up 6% grades.
tropical36 07/14/20 10:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

Off topic but pertains to Pvt purchase via Cash. all cash Bank transactions withdrawals or deposits 10,000 or more are reported to the feds by Bank regulation and part of homeland security and of course watching for Drug transactions. If Purchasing with a dealer unfortunately I disagree with cash being King. Cash is not king anymore unless it's some mom and pop operation. Much like a Car dealer (never say your cash to a car dealer until the deal is done) Dealers can make money off the financing and may take that into consideration on their "deal" dealers can get better rates than you and then equal or better the rates you can get at the same lender while they get the difference. A legit dealer will lower the price counting on that income to make it up , you win with a lower OTD price and the same financing rate you would get on your own. Just some food for thought if your a Dealer purchaser I need to remember that and for making all my future drug deals in lots of $9999.99....lol You're right about dealers and financing and for them not wanting to hear that cash word, any longer. Check book in the doorway, as I mentioned is just for showing seriousness in making a downpayment and for no matter how you pay.
tropical36 07/06/20 08:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

Cash talks & BS walks. Be surprised what a deal can be made when you “show them the cash”. With a dealer, the best deals can be made, standing in the doorway with checkbook and pen in hand, while on your way out the door. Again, the best way to buy all around, is from a consignment dealer and for going back and forth with the seller.
tropical36 07/05/20 09:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

In my experience is with many private party sellers is they want cash only. Won’t take a check or a cashiers check or even go to bank with you, cash only. So when I recently bought a Motorhome from a private party the seller insisted on Cash. Wouldn’t even follow me to my Bank to receive a Bank Check. So I had to pre-order that much Cash and fill out forms for the bank and government of what I was going to do with that much cash. In the future if I’m trying to buy a RV or car for more than $ 10K and the seller won’t take a cashiers check No deal. Dealers will always take a check, even a personal check is no problem. I’m not carrying around big bundles of cash anymore for private sellers A little off topic here, but it shouldn't be anyone's freaking business, with what you intend to do with your own money and these freaking banks are starting to get to me with their always BS. Just the other day, I deposited a nice size check and even though I've been with then forever, they still said, my money was not available for withdrawal for awhile. We're not talking personal check here, but form one of the largest corps in American. Having said all that, most sellers will take a cashier's check and the last time, I was given a bunch of cash for a sale, I had one hell've time counting it and for doing so about 4 times.
tropical36 07/05/20 09:31pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

All I've seen, have cracked wherever it felt like it, despite having form/saw joints. Often that means if they sawed the joint, they waited too long. Just the expansion/contraction from day to night can crack a slab. Forming the joint is OK for DIY work but hard to get consistent depth with wet concrete wanting to reform into a single piece. Spacing for joints, depends on thickness and reinforcement...a thin non-reinforced slab will require a lot of joints. It will also be more critical that you have the base well compacted. I get what you're saying and must admit, I'm pretty much of an amateur, for pouring concrete. Then again, I've seen the same from would be professionals
tropical36 07/04/20 06:48pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

Concrete highways are normally 4 inches thick to stand up to truck traffic. Call some contractors and ask them. You might be right on the margin of safety. I'm in the industry and the thinnest concrete I've ever seen used on a highway is 7 inches. 8 to 12 inches is more common. For a driveway with a big MH, I would go with 6 inch....it is critical that the base below is compacted well. Concrete cracks...you can either form/saw joints that look nice or they will form for you and they will be ugly. All I've seen, have cracked wherever it felt like it, despite having form/saw joints.
tropical36 07/04/20 02:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

I would like to park my motor home on a driveway that I believe is about 3 inches thick of concrete. I have a diesel pusher that weighs about 29,000. The greatest single tire bearing weight is 5500 lbs. Obviously I don't want to cause any damage in the way of cracks or other damage. To be on the safe side I think it would be best to keep my jacks up too. What do you think, would it be safe? We destroyed ours after getting this 16 ton model. Doing it over, I'd pour 6" thick with reinforcement. As for cracks forming here and there, if you can prevent that from happening, then you'll find yourself rich, by just being a consultant to the industry.
tropical36 07/04/20 09:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older MH mpg with diesel

Seems that everyone always gets better mileage than me, no matter what I'm driving. I'm an easy driver too, with easy starts off the line and for cruising at 57mph and just enough to prevent downshifting into 5th going over grades. I'm at 16tons and over a 13yr period, among three owners, my average is 6.2 on the OEM digital dash readout. I tow as well and was only able to increase this average by 0.1 over four years. Not even sure, if this is counting the genset, since I don't know where sensors for this is. I've also noticed that some of these big rigs, get as much as our toad, all by itself. Ummmmmmm! Glad to hear from an honest owner. My Cat350 in a 40 footer and towing a CR-V gets 6.6 to 6.7. I thought mine was worse than anybody's. But, I have to agree with the guy who said that mileage was way down the list in importance. Once you pay for insurance, taxes, storage (in my case) and other maintenance expenses involved, you'll see. Kind of like buying an airplane and worrying about MPG. I certainly agree and these numbers are only good for the sake of discussion and for wondering if you have a leak somewhere. Actually and I've said this many times, I feel that DPM (depreciation per mile) is where the real cost of ownership lies and the only way to offset that some, is for buying older. We bought ours at 9yrs old and it's still gonna be a bunch of money, once it's all said and done.
tropical36 07/04/20 09:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: buy from dealer or private seller

We are looking to buy a newer model class A . We have never bought from a private seller, only dealers. Need some opinions on experiences of buying from Private seller. Which is best, dealer or private? Thanks! Consignment dealer has been my best experience, with both wanting to get rid of it and at the same time, making the dealer take a certain amount of responsibility for it. Don't have to deal with the emotions of the seller either. Next best, is for private seller. Dealer, only when he has what you want in the right condition at the right price, but to be avoided if can be.
tropical36 06/26/20 08:26am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older MH mpg with diesel

Seems that everyone always gets better mileage than me, no matter what I'm driving. I'm an easy driver too, with easy starts off the line and for cruising at 57mph and just enough to prevent downshifting into 5th going over grades. I'm at 16tons and over a 13yr period, among three owners, my average is 6.2 on the OEM digital dash readout. I tow as well and was only able to increase this average by 0.1 over four years. Not even sure, if this is counting the genset, since I don't know where sensors for this is. I've also noticed that some of these big rigs, get as much as our toad, all by itself. Ummmmmmm!
tropical36 06/19/20 08:01am Class A Motorhomes
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