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RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Hi Chum lee, I'm not sure where you got the idea I was talking about a used coach? I'm looking for new. My question was is there a reason to specifically look at a coach with 22.5 tires over a coach having 19.5 tires? T he answer is NO... If you don't need the additional weight, then the tried and true 19'5's work just fine. The 22.5 tires/chassis may give a little better ride, but not to the point to make a selection on it? Have I gone off the rails on what you good folks have said? Are the two coaches about the same price wise? Just wondering why the one is equipped with larger wheels.
tropical36 11/24/20 06:28pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Many don't check any of this out before purchase and concentrate on the fireplace and big TV. Fact is and if I'm looking to buy a DP, I first look in the rear for a side radiator, while most head for the entry door for checking out said TV and fireplace. But then, that's for another topic. while the salesman makes a mad dash for the button to demonstrate the electric awning with the LED lights. :) bumpy There ya go and about the extent of what their knowledge is of the machine itself. Just try asking them some real questions and see what you get. Makes no never mind really and with one needing to know everything about what they want, before seriously shopping around. For instance made a phone offer with contingencies on our last one, after deciding on what we wanted. Still missed the part of where that extra ton of CCC was and assuming it was overall. Shame on me, but not a problem as we always tow four down anyway.
tropical36 11/24/20 09:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

If I’m reading you right, the 22 is better and holds more weight. But the 19 has been around a long time and does fine if additional weight isn’t a factor? This is true and for example, our old coach was well under weight for the 19.5" tires. It had a tag axle for an additional 4500 lbs. but only because it was 36ft long and on a GM P32 chassis. At the same time, pulling our Jeep put an extra ton of overload on it and only because of the GM 4L80E transmission. No problem however, except for long 6% grades in the heat of summer. Now with our present coach and 22.5 tires, the rear is at max GVWR when loaded for travel, but because of the axle, not the tires. Still a ton to the good on the front. As for GCWR, we can pull 15K lbs and stay within specs. and just as long as it's not a trailer with hitch weight to contend with and even though the hitch rating is 1500lbs. Many don't check any of this out before purchase and concentrate on the fireplace and big TV. Fact is and if I'm looking to buy a DP, I first look in the rear for a side radiator, while most head for the entry door for checking out said TV and fireplace. But then, that's for another topic.
tropical36 11/23/20 06:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: How important is tire size to your selection?

Some motorhomes have 22.5 tires while others have 19.5. The style, meaning price point is the same. But as I said they have different size tires. How important is that in the big selection process? I've never seen a motorhome that didn't have adequate wheels and tires for the chassis it was on. Thing to watch out for is CCC and GCWR, which many fail in miserably and for a number of reasons. Axles capacity for one and most importantly for the latter, the transmission. Having said all that, the larger wheels could very well account for more CCC and GVWR. Apples to Apples, I'd go with the 22.5's.
tropical36 11/23/20 02:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide topper replacement ACE 30.1 2016

I found a way for making it a simple one man job and have done two of mine so far. Put the slide about half way out where you have some room to work. Then, take up a little slack and C clamp or other, on the opposite side of where you'll be removing it. Then use a drill for widening the slot towards the end of the roller on the other end. Spray the whole slot with some slickum, like silicon and after removing the track anchors on the coach body, slide the thing out, little by little. Clickity.... Can't seem to fix this thing with it saying that I used invalid formatting. Let's try the uTube link again ... https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+replace+a+carefree+slide+topper&oq=how+to+replace+a+carefree+slide+topper&aqs=chrome..69i57j0i22i30i457j0i22i30j69i61l2.17610j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_joOtX4iEBcaA5wKUw4fIBg12
tropical36 11/12/20 11:45am Class A Motorhomes
RE: slide topper replacement ACE 30.1 2016

I found a way for making it a simple one man job and have done two of mine so far. Put the slide about half way out where you have some room to work. Then, take up a little slack and C clamp or other, on the opposite side of where you'll be removing it. Then use a drill for widening the slot towards the end of the roller on the other end. Spray the whole slot with some slickum, like silicon and after removing the track anchors on the coach body, slide the thing out, little by little. Clickity....
tropical36 11/12/20 11:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2000 Safari Sahara Slide out inop

Hi guys! So, new to me Sahara has the main slideout stuck open and it won't close. I took the cylinder out to move it, but I have no idea how to troubleshoot it. Anybody knows where is the pump? Normal failure modes? Any help will be greatly appreciated! So hydraulic, rather than Power Gear Electric. Can't help much, this being the case, but do wish to follow towards a solution, where others should be able to help you.
tropical36 11/11/20 05:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: tv reception with air antenna

my reception with my air antenna works well in my driveway but at various campgrounds get no channels at all. These campgrounds are not remote and near densely populated areas. I know the boost works and the selector in set at antenna. I don not want to go to an rv service center near home and pay big labor rates for them to tell me all is well. also all cables to the selector box are secure. help Shouldn't be a problem, as our old batwing works well. Usually leave it straight ahead and scan all TV's. If needed, rotate CW a few degrees and recheck along with a rescan if necessary. We usually ignore the park cable service, since they're most always analog signals.
tropical36 10/30/20 07:56am Technology Corner
RE: Installing an inverter in my Winndbago Journey

This question is for Tropical36. I am interested in doing what you described you have done to connect inverter as shore power. Would it help if I were to disconnect power bank from main setup and use it as a stand-alone power bank to power the inverter? Not really understanding the question here. What are you referring to as the ....power bank... and are you perhaps talking about your house batteries? What do you mean by the main setup? All I was saying is that you might just plug your shore power cord into the inverter's 120vac output when you want to use it. Again, you must first open every non essential circuit breaker, when doing so or risk depleting your house batteries in short order. As for what you can keep, it will depend on the size of the inverter. If you only want to operate a couple of things and the inverter is only 1000watts or less, it's not all that hard to run a couple of dedicated outlets here and there, like I did in our old gas coach and be done with it, as another option.
tropical36 10/22/20 09:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Years of auto park brake

looking to purchase another class a or a diesel.... how do i avoid the dreaded Auto park brake system... what years were they used... were they on all models... thanks in advance This was a GM design that was around for awhile, before the P32 chassis was sold to Workhorse in 1999. Not such a bad system, actually and as long as one educated themselves on it's operation and for carrying a few parts on board and especially the green hydraulic pressure switch for the version III. Some were installed on the WH W chassis, as well and even though it might have an Allison Transmission. The whole thing is about having a tranny that doesn't have a parking pawl due to liability concerns over weight restrictions. Read on..... Technical Inquiries: August 2004 September 1, 2004 Auto-Park Brake Questions A: Recently we’ve received several questions regarding the auto-park brake system used on some Workhorse P Series gasoline-powered motorhome chassis. To help owners understand how the system works, what could cause it to fail, and the results of such a failure, we contacted the company for an explanation. A product service technician at Workhorse provided the following information. The auto-park brake system (option J71) is used on all P Series chassis equipped with Hydra-Matic 4L80-E and 4L85-E (the latter starting with 2003 model year) transmissions and with gross vehicle weight ratings (GVWR) above 15,000 pounds. This brake replaces the foot parking brake and parking pawl used on similar units rated at less than 15,000 pounds GVWR. (The parking pawl on the 4L80E transmission is rated at a maximum of 15,000 pounds GVWR.) Workhorse chassis (W Series) equipped with Allison 1000 MH transmissions do not have auto-park brakes; they have parking pawls. However, the new W24 (2004 model) chassis with an Allison 2100 MH transmission does have an auto-park brake system, as this transmission has no parking pawl. Allison transmissions are not available on P Series chassis. The foundation for the auto-park brake system is a drum-type brake mounted on the rear of the transmission. When the brake shoes are applied against the drum, they stop rotation of the prop shaft, which holds the rear wheels from rotating. A spring-loaded chamber mechanically applies the brake. A hydraulic cylinder that obtains pressure and flow from an electric-powered pump releases the brake. The brake is applied when the shift lever is put in the “park” position. The brake is activated when the park neutral switch and relay remove a 12-volt-DC power supply to a normally open solenoid valve. The valve dumps the oil pressure that holds the spring compressed, and the spring mechanically applies the parking brake. When the shift lever is moved to any gear position, 12-volt-DC power goes to the solenoid valve and it closes. At the same time, an electric-powered hydraulic pump provides pressure and flow to a cylinder that compresses the spring and releases the brake. The operation is similar to that of spring-activated parking brakes on air-brake-equipped units. For a parking brake to meet Department of Transportation (DOT) standards, it must fail in a safe mode so that the parking brake is activated or remains activated in the event of any failure within the system. This means that any failure will result in the parking brake being applied or not being released. This is a desirable feature and is required to prevent a parked vehicle from rolling in the event of a system failure. For example, any loss of power to the solenoid valve, including a dead battery or a loose battery connection, can cause the brake to apply. Similar designs are used throughout the industry on motorhomes, buses, and trucks. Other failures that could cause the brake to apply include loss of fluid pressure resulting from leaks in the system, or contaminated fluid. Owners also should be aware that connecting add-on electrical devices to the same circuit or wiring as the auto-brake have been known to cause problems. If you decide to add an aftermarket backup camera, obstacle sensing device, and/or a backup warning device, make sure it is fused separately if wired to the backup lights. The backup lights are most often wired through the neutral safety switch that is necessarily fused on the same circuit as the auto-park brake, as this is the switch that actuates it. One concern owners have expressed is, what would happen if the brake should apply at high speed? The vehicle will come to a slow stop, as it does not have sufficient power to lock and skid the rear wheels, unless the vehicle is traveling on an icy or a slippery surface. However, severe damage can occur to the brake and it may not hold the unit in a parked position. In this case, the brake immediately should be checked, repaired, and adjusted as necessary. The prop shaft will not be damaged. Should the brake become locked in a no-release condition due to a failure, it cannot be mechanically released. However, a qualified technician can remove the cable pin. This will release the brake, but the unit will not have a parking brake and cannot be parked without blocking the wheels. To reduce the possibility of having an auto-brake failure, Workhorse recommends a yearly inspection of the system for loose connections, corrosion of components, adjustments, reservoir fluid level, fluid condition, and system operation. The cable should be adjusted at least once every year. The system has a light and buzzer that warns the operator if an adjustment is needed. The adjustment is required to provide proper holding power and is not related to failure to release. The system also should be inspected to make sure that added items such as reverse bells/lights or any other added equipment is not installed on the same circuit or wiring as the auto-park brake. An electrical overload resulting from such added items has caused the parking brake to apply or not release. In May 2001 Workhorse issued technical bulletin 80101-T that described chassis wiring improvements for 2001 model-year chassis (after VIN# 5B4LP57G51333218 on March 12, 2001). One of the changes was to separate the circuits used for the auto-park brake and signal lights so that a shorted or improperly wired towed vehicle would not interfere with the auto-park brake. Some owners have asked whether a replacement kit is available to convert the auto-park brake system into a pedal- or lever-type system as is used on some commercial trucks. The answer is no. All chassis equipped with automatic transmissions and hydraulic brakes without parking pawls have the auto-brake system to comply with DOT standards. This includes all Workhorse gasoline-powered chassis with Allison transmissions other than the 1000 MH transmission, which has a parking pawl.
tropical36 10/18/20 09:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Turning off the generator with the AC going?

If you unplug shore power with the A/C running, The arcing will be at the shore cord male plug and the campground RV outlet.! If you shut a synchronous generator off while there is a substantial load (A/C compressor) , The arcing will be in the transfer switch contacts, But the biggest danger is damage to the the generator head, As the generator head winds down, voltage drops rapidly and amp load of the compressor increases, When the voltage is too low to hold in the ats, it drops out aka open the contacts that this amp load is flowing thru, but the back EMF from the breaking open circuit causes a power spike in the generator head and the field control circuit That is where the expensive damage accumulates until there is failure, A winding down generator, is not the same as flipping a disconnect or pulling a plug I've always thought along these same lines and keep wondering why my coach has a gen start next to the bed for the convenience of starting or stopping during the night, without having to get up?
tropical36 10/05/20 07:11am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Installed supersteer springs but...

Thanks for all the info. Im going to vent a little more; Every time this rig sees a shop (and its seen alot of shops) i ask them to grease all the grease fittings and charge me for whatever labor it is (its alot of zerks). I crawled under and every single grease fitting was dry as a bone, even the new components! Unreal. Everybody is incompetent. I digress, since i greased everything ive heard almost zero noises. Once in a blue moon it will make a feint clunk, but who knows. Im going to another shop tomorrow to get another opinion. It still drives like a forklift Like most everything that you don't do yourself. It's either watch every move or pray. I did have camping world put these coils in our old coach and it did well afterwards. Never did have a problem with the front end, other than the bags going flat. Mine also had a factory Helwig buggy spring installed, which was removed after installing the new coils. The DP we have now, is a horse of a different color and even though we liked the old coach, I'm never going back.
tropical36 09/13/20 07:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Installing an inverter in my Winndbago Journey

One consideration when plugging the shore power cord into the inverter is to turn off the 110 breaker for the converter/charger. If this is not done, the converter will attempt to charge the batteries that supply the inverter. This loop will either use excessive energy at a minimum or trip the inverter. We have labeled our 110 breakers for the converter charger and air conditioning and turn them off whenever plugging into the inverter. Works perfectly. Also may wish to avoid using the microwave. (Highly recommend a pure sine wave inverter when doing this.) Yes I did purchase a pure sine wave inverter (2500W). I will install a normally closed relay in the power to the converter that will be energized to open when the inverter is turned on. That will prevent the converter from trying to charge the batteries with power drawn from the batteries. My only problem with this plan is "where is the converter?" After looking at several wiring diagrams and schematics I discovered that the converter is located under the refrigerator behind the grill that looks like the cold air return for the furnace. Since motorhomes are very compact manufacturers need to tuck devices into unexpected places. With most of the newer coaches and not so new, the converter and inverter are compacted into one unit and usually in an outside bay near the batteries.
tropical36 09/13/20 06:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: class a diesel maintenance

Hello, we are thinking of buying a class a diesel, can most repairs/maintenance be done from outside the coach or do you need to go under the bed? If so have anybody had any problems with garages getting grease & diesel smell all around the bedroom? As we can not handle the smell. Thanks for any info on this. It's all about the money, as always and with that you can have any kind of service you desire, whether it needs done outside or inside and for using white gloves, as well. As for big Diesel rigs in general, they're like any Yacht, on land or sea and both cost money to buy and maintain, over the cost of just having a boat. Most maintenance is outside and sometimes both. Not like you can just raise the hood for getting to everything, you know, unless you go for a Super C class and for something you might want to look into, given your concerns.
tropical36 09/05/20 09:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: WHAT dinghy or toad is good to tow ???

hi just getting back into the a class A . went from an 05 Providence 39s to a Forest river 30ft class C .Just never warmed up to it . Traded it in for a 2021 Forest River Georgetown 39 ft G5 . Wondering what is a good toad /dinghy. was thinking maybe a jeep wrangler or maybe a beetle , or even a mini cooper? would love to find one all set up for use with my blue ox tow bar, but just cant seem to fiqure out where to look for ones ready to go. Its really only gonna be used for towing, so not looking to spend a million bucks . im located in mass , but willing to travel to find something ready to go . any help /advice would be appreciated . thanks dan Always best to tow your DD and for having an extra vehicle to support for just being a Toad, will cost a million bucks in added expense, anyway. As to your question, I vote for the Wrangler, hands down for ease of towing quirks and so that you're ready for any kind of terrain, once your get where you're going.
tropical36 09/05/20 09:20am Dinghy Towing
RE: Good Bye Class A forum!

Join the club! After 20+ years with a 34' TT, we sold it and are moving to a truck camper for those same reasons. We decided a TC would be best for us because we need 4x4 for beach access. Best of luck with your new rig and happy travels! I always say, an RV can't be too big when it's parked or too small when it's going down the road... I gave serious consideration to a truck camper. Having 4x4 would be nice since I live in snow country. The only think that stopped me is I really don’t want a full size truck as my daily driver. I like my Ford Ranger. Also truck campers are too limited in storage and holding tank sizes. But they are very nice. Truck campers seem to have really gone out of favor in recent years. IMO, the only thing they were ever good for was for frequent trips to hard to get, fishing holes and for having them pretty much to yourself. Guessing if access isn't too bad, one could pull a TT with a 4x4 and still for getting places, that other campers wouldn't bother with. They even make them large and light enough for a Ranger, if it might be a 4 x 4, as well, otherwise an F150 with do the trick, easily.
tropical36 09/05/20 09:15am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Good Bye Class A forum!

I joined RV.Net almost 20 years ago now when I bought my first motorhome, a gas Rexhall 32 foot Class A. It was a good motorhome, but it only lasted me a couple of years before I upgraded to a Tropical 35 foot DP. That was in 2004. Had that motorhome for 16 years and used it a lot. Great motorhome that only gave me minor problems. But after 19 years of Class A’s, we decided that the way we use a motorhome, we’d be better off with something smaller. We rarely stay in any one spot more than a few days and we often cover a lot of miles when we do go out. The big Class A meant we always had to bring the toad because you just can’t drive downtown real easy in a Class A. So we traded in the Class A on a Nexus Viper Class B+. Just picked up the new motorhome last week in Phoenix and drove it home to Reno. It’s going to take some getting used to the smaller size, it was a little cramped, but the ease of driving and getting into places is going to make it well worth it. For example we drove home up the Extraterrestrial Highway. As we were approaching Rachel NV I see the famous black mail box on the side of the road. But I had already passed it by the time I saw it. In the DP with a toad there would be no going back. But since there was no traffic for miles, I stopped in the middle of the highway and made about a 8 point turn in the middle of the highway and went back to the black mailbox for some touristy photos. That was the main reason for changing. I want to make some cross country trips and not have to bring the toad and yet still be able to get anyplace I want to go. I think it’s going to work out just fine. And one of the reasons for going for this particular motorhome over something on the Sprinter Chassis, is I have a 7.6 liter ford V-8. So if I do want to bring the toad, the Viper will tow it without problem. So I’ll be giving up the Class A forum and be hanging out down on the Class B+ forum! I think you'er going to miss the A, more than you know, but that's just my opinion. As for turning any rig around, I've always found that it's the toad of concern and especially when heading down an unknown street, so that won't change with a smaller rig. Naturally you can always unhitch with any of them and we've done that a few times as well. Anyway good luck with your new rig and for hopefully enjoying, it's all around use.
tropical36 09/05/20 09:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1210 freezer cold refrigerator warm

I bought a Winnebago Luxor in 1997 and never had a single problem with the frig in 20 years. This one is 3 years old and seems fans or thermostat have failed. I'll fix it. Unless you are full timing I doubt most use as much as we do and I like the option of running on propane when there is no other power and I can turn the generator off at night if its cool....but thats just me. Just so you know and even though your inverter won't run the power hog, you have now on electric, all night long, it will a new residential model. Either from the store or for converting the one you have now. The way I figure it, if I'm in the boonies for awhile, I'm gonna need the genset a little each day anyway and for charging the batteries at the same time.
tropical36 08/25/20 09:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1210 freezer cold refrigerator warm

OK, back home now and its raining. I had a small 12 volt fan in the garage with an on/off switch and jerry rigged it into the bottom at the back blowing up before we left. It got the freezer below zero and the refrig was 38. Guess that tells me something. When checking it sometimes the cooling coils were cool and other times to hot to touch. There was nothing in the frig at all. What does that tell me? Well, when the unit is on, it's going to be hot, until it reaches set point and then is going to be off for awhile and will cool down some, depending on ambient, door openings and such, until it calls for cooling again. I always added extra fans to mine, before the conversion, as well and am glad that those days are over with. Can't see using an RV fridge these days with adequate batteries and an inverter, no matter how much one might boon dock. I guess, if one has a roof full of solar power and hates running a genset, that's another story. Thing is, what would these same people do, having a new rig with a residential? Remove it for an RV replacement type? Don't think I've ever heard of that one, if it exists.
tropical36 08/24/20 10:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Norcold 1210 freezer cold refrigerator warm

It's always been a battle for keeping a NEVERCOLD fridge temp. under 40F, with the best of them, from the git go. I can't imagine pulling the fridge for doing any kind of repair, without just doing an RC refrigeration conversion, while you're at it. Choice of a compressor type or staying with the RV style is available, as well. That's the only way, it's ever going to be right for proper cooling. Once the refrigerant cell fails and it will eventually, you're done anyway and not to mention the possible fire safety concerns, that come with it.
tropical36 08/22/20 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
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