Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'ron.dittmer' found 209 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 11  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Marathon driving

Marathon driving? Try driving 24/7 at 57 mph from Chicago to places like Yosemite, Glacier, and the shorter trips to Yellowstone and Rocky THIS SLUG of a rig. We did that during most of our working years with reduced vacation time with kids on-board. We setup our two boys with Sega Genesis Nomads which helped keep them occupied, but they loved to play interactive games with each other much more. They say their fondest memories of our trips were those long days in the motorhome, not the destinations. For all they cared, we could have driven around in circles. They complained big time when we put the rig up for sale in 2007. I said, "Hey, you can buy it" which quieted them down quickly. Our oldest had just graduated with a Masters degree at the time, so he could have bought it if he didn't want to see it leave the family. Anyways.... EMD360, I am glad you had a great trip. Thanks for sharing that.
ron.dittmer 05/08/21 04:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Metal carport RV shelter

You know the how it is with boats and "2foot-itis". My advice is to make the building as large as your property can accommodate, within reason of coarse. Build it bigger than your rig needs because life changes. Suddenly it's too small and you'll be kicking yourself over your decision to make it just big enough. Maybe you'll never own a larger motor home, but later want to store other things inside, if not for yourself, then for family & friends.
ron.dittmer 05/05/21 07:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Height of Unit

Phoenix Cruiser model 2350 on the E350 chassis was advertised at 9'-10" to the top of the a/c unit, and ours was true to that spec. The a/c unit on our rig is the highest point. But if you have a satellite dome, that is going to be taller.
ron.dittmer 04/30/21 10:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2006 Isata Touring Sedan model 220 anyone familiar?

That vintage of the Isata was known for exceptional quality. If the one you bought was well kept, then you have a sweet rig.
ron.dittmer 04/29/21 10:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

pnichols brings up a very valid point that we lived with for 24 years with our first motorhome SHOWN HERE. If you scroll thru the pictures, you will see where the manual gear shifter was located. Talk about being a contortionist. We had no concerns getting between the cab and house when we bought the rig at age 25, but were so tired of the struggle during our later years. In the E350/E450, people complain about the difficulties getting from the driver seat to the house interior and back again. I say "Ha, ha, what difficulty?". I have no trouble at all. I realize a full size pickup cab does not compare to what we managed with for all those years, but is still a lot to deal with compared to a van cab. Between that and sacrificing so much "house" in the overall length, a pickup cab would never be a consideration for us. I'll take the van cab benefits over "repair convenience" of a pickup cab. If we were shopping for a new class C, we would simply page past on-line, or walk past in-person over every pickup cab. Looking at that picture higher up of a pickup cab lifted off the frame to work on it's diesel engine, leaves me to question the benefit even further. That is not even an option with a motorhome. With the 22R engine my guess is that vehicle is still moving down the road. Secondly, if that were mine the license plate would be "jetsons". what a great looking rig.Our little old Toyota/Mirage just might still be. If would be interesting to run a CarFax report on the VIN to see if it's still alive. Other than the interior fabric and carpet, that rig was in excellent condition 14 years ago when we sold it. I still get inquiries about it from my flickr pictures and my write-up posted inside it with it's history.
ron.dittmer 04/29/21 06:22am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

pnichols brings up a very valid point that we lived with for 24 years with our first motorhome SHOWN HERE. If you scroll thru the pictures, you will see where the manual gear shifter was located. Talk about being a contortionist. We had no concerns getting between the cab and house when we bought the rig at age 25, but were so tired of the struggle during our later years. In the E350/E450, people complain about the difficulties getting from the driver seat to the house interior and back again. I say "Ha, ha, what difficulty?". I have no trouble at all. I realize a full size pickup cab does not compare to what we managed with for all those years, but is still a lot to deal with compared to a van cab. Between that and sacrificing so much "house" in the overall length, a pickup cab would never be a consideration for us. I'll take the van cab benefits over "repair convenience" of a pickup cab. If we were shopping for a new class C, we would simply page past on-line, or walk past in-person over every pickup cab. Looking at that picture higher up of a pickup cab lifted off the frame to work on it's diesel engine, leaves me to question the benefit even further. That is not even an option with a motorhome.
ron.dittmer 04/26/21 05:35am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is the year of the coach based on the year of the chassis

Hi KC, Roughly 1/3 of all motorhomes are marketed that way because the RV manufactures release their model year about 5 months prior to the chassis manufacture. So there is huge amount of production time where they mismatch. Complicating the matter is chassis overstock. During the great recession of 2008-2010, some motorhomes were two years apart. You would see a 2010 motorhome built on a 2008 chassis. Our first motorhome bought new, was a 1984 built on a 1983 chassis. I knew about it up front but later regretted the decision not to wait for a match. There was always confusion when it came time for emissions testing and insurance. Also it never felt right until enough years passed by and didn't bother me anymore. We owned that rig for 24 years. When ordering our new rig in March 2007, I made sure the chassis year matched the RV model year. The RV manufacture actually built the house on a freshly made E350 chassis such that they were only a month apart in age. That was in April/May of 2007. Had I placed my order a month or two later, my RV would have been a 2008 with the chassis being a 2007. Some people would say it would have been better to wait. That never crossed my mind at the time, but am happy to have matching model years for a change.
ron.dittmer 04/25/21 06:52am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire Recommendations

Hi ScottM, If your rig is 29 feet or longer with one or more slide outs, you might want to consider those extra-capacity E-rated tires. It's like 500 pounds more per tire which means 2000 more pounds for the rear axle and 1000 more pounds on the front. But there is such a thing as "too much". A shorter lighter rig with over-rated tires translates to a more harsh ride. Just about everyone would agree that the continuous earth-quaking when being driven is undesirable. You don't want to make it unnecessarily worse. For our 24 foot (2007 E350-DRW chassis) rig with no slide out, I am buying new tires in the next few weeks. I decided on Michelin Agilis CrossClimate 115/112R. Discount tire gave me a price on 6 for $1316 out the door. Our rig is 14 years old with 38,000 miles and still has the original tires in-part because we garage our rig. I had such a good experience with the original Michelin LTX tires that made no sense to try a different brand. I also like that they are "Made In USA".
ron.dittmer 04/22/21 10:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: full size corner bed vs queen corner bed

Our Phoenix Cruiser 2350 rear corner bed measures 50x76 with limited access as shown, I feel this is a "Worst Case" rear corner bed scenario. The bed reminds me of a double bed in a captain quarters in a large trailered boat. Two things must exist for it to work well. 1) Both you are your spouse are nimble (we are) 2) Both you and your spouse are not overweight (we are not overweight) We bought our PC when we were 49 years old. We are 63 this year and it still works but is naturally becoming more challenging as we continue to get older. I sleep on the isle side, my wife against the outside wall. We generally get up once during the night. When I get up, my wife gets up. It works but is obviously not ideal. More important than a bigger bed to me, is better access. We could remove the low-hanging cabinet at our feet but are nowhere ready for such a change. It would be a "last resort". Here is the bedroom. width=640 Here is the bed. width=640 You might ask why we would buy a motorhome with such a confining bedroom. Keeping the story short, whatever motorhome we were to buy, it had to meet these requirements. 1) must fit inside our tiny motorhome garage 2) must have a main floor double bed 3) must have a comfortable dinette It is ideal given our particular circumstances. It is shoehorned inside our garage and still comfortably meets our needs. CLICK HERE to see many pictures, inside and outside. Another consideration was what it replaced....something much smaller yet. CLICK HERE to see it. We slept on the dinette bed because the overhead bunk was just too confining. We bought it in 1983 when we became parents at age 25 and sold it at age 49 when our kids were done traveling with us. Our last trip as a family was in 2005, 5 people, my wife, me, college son #1, high school son #2, son #1 college girlfriend. Our sons slept together in a tent and the girl in her own tent. A number of our trips over the years included a 5th person. We traveled very tightly so our rig today for just the two of us is massive and luxurious by comparison. Our Phoenix Cruiser 2350 is our last motorhome. When it no longer works for us, we are done RVing. We hope that is decades away. Sometimes, it's where you come from.
ron.dittmer 04/21/21 05:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: '92 Coachman Chugs & Stalls Cold Gas to Fix - Another Way?

When it acts up stop and open gas cap and listen for vacuum sound. Might be a problem with fuel vent system (emissions). ??Yes, this came to my mind.....negative pressure inside the fuel tank. When it happens again, take off the gas cap to neutralize the pressure in the tank, put it back on, and see if the problem can be repeated with the same band-aid solution.
ron.dittmer 04/16/21 01:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Overhang construction

Hi Gjac, You may have read my long-winded reply in the past over this subject matter. If so, then you already know my opinion. Given your list of candidates, I would place the seamless fiberglass front overhang as your highest priority and let the other deficiencies fall behind it. Nothing is worse than water damage..."PERIOD"....and a seamless frontal area addresses the worst of such a threat. For reference, here is my long-winded post on water leakage. -------------------------------------------- New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road. Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is. When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home. #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best) NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans. #2 SECOND BEST Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA. Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for. a) Structural Seams Away From Corners When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas. b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work. There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry. Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful. c) A Crowned Roof Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons. d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected. e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together. Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example. f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor. Bigger Will Be Weaker The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice. Potentially Troublesome Construction Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner. There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best A Caution Concerning Slide Outs Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing. About The Chassis The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine and this year Ford replaces that 6.8L-V10 with a larger, more powerful 7.3L-V8. The Ford Transit diesel and the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. I am not sure a Transit can tow anything significant. That needs further research. If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine - Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically. - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room. - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride. - A grander view out the windshield - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to. Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine or larger V8 engine - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight. - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load. - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability. - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping. - This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues. You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. The Ford Transit Chassis This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access. The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market. The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room. The Ford E350 & E450 The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced. Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020) Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds) Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand. CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an undisclosed brand. I think it is a Nexus. There is a lot of nit-picking but is notable when adding it all up. It is also educational on what makes a better motor home...of coarse at a higher price too. CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about.
ron.dittmer 04/13/21 12:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

I don't disagree with Chum Lee. At the same time I need to say that my standard automotive tools apply well at home concerning our E350 motor home with only two special considerations. 1) Have a floor jack rated strong enough to lift any corner of your rig. 2) Have jack stands that are rated for that same weight. Of coarse it is wise to have extra margin. If you need a 3 ton floor jack, buy a 4 ton, and so on with jack stands. When I need to lift a rear corner, I use the 6 ton bottle jack that came with the rig. When I need to lift my 3200 pound front, I use my 2-1/4 ton (4500 lb) rolling floor jack. I have two pairs of jack stands. I would not use the one pair because they are "lighter duty" with a small base. width=640
ron.dittmer 04/11/21 08:23am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C that's easy to fix?

et cetera, I did not read through all the posts, but I wanted to provide my opinion and experience. Our first motor home HERE was built on a Toyota pickup truck chassis that we owned for 24 years. One of the things I appreciated was easy access to the engine. But as time passed, my priorities transitioned from "easy mechanical maintenance" to "we want maximum house". When we replaced that tiny little rig, we went with a 2007 Ford E350 based rig HERE that provided the most house for the shortest van front. The following year, Ford restyled the E-series which added 3 inches forward, a critical 3" that would not allow me to walk around the rig when parked in our garage. I dismissed a class-A primarily because the rig had to fit in our garage, but I have other issues with them. Where I volunteer as a mechanic at an auto charity, I worked on a few old class A's and they are a serious pain to work on. I will take a mass-produced class C van chassis over any "kit" class A any day. Not only are they not designed with consideration to maintenance & repair, but they are built with inferior metals that rust badly. Disassembling anything often results in fabricating body panel brackets because the originals were rusted away so badly. Replacing a radiator is nearly impossible. Current-day class-A's, in some cases you have to remove the entire face of the motor home (windshield and all) to replace the radiator. So if you are looking for "ease of maintenance" a class-A should "NOT" be a consideration. As intimidating as a van chassis appears, they really are not bad. Interference items are fairly easily removed for access to the work area. Auto manufactures design automobiles with that consideration. Now I will admit, there have been a few bad apples, but the standard Ford and Chevy vans are not one of them. So when considering a pickup truck front versus a van front, do you want 3 feet more hood, or 3 feet more house. After a while, you will likely opt for more of what you bought the rig for, enjoying it's comforts. Your wife will appreciate it all the more. If you wonder, 3 feet of extra house is "A Lot" of extra comfort. There is also one additional consideration pickup or van. The van is easy to enter and exit from inside the house. It's harder in a pickup truck. The van design has monumental advantages that apply directly to general comfort. More house and easy entry & exit from within. For 98% of people, that supersedes easier repairs.
ron.dittmer 04/09/21 08:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Something is weird with my water heater...

I agree. Corroded connections is a common culprit. Remember that a HWT operates off both 12V and 110V, maybe at the same time. I am not certain, but if you have no 12V, the unit might not work when 110V is available. It is that way with the fridge which still requires 12V to operate on 110V.
ron.dittmer 04/03/21 06:45am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What to do about old gas in tank

Just got back from Yosemite. Old gas wasn't an issue. I did throw in a can of Seafoam before leaving. Actually got the best MPG ever at 9.2 for the trip home. It's usually 7.8-8.2 mpg. Probably stretches of construction with 55 mph and the Grapevine climb was a slow 40mph because of stalled trucks.Good for you original poster! That is the best thing to do. Just burn off the old gas as long as the engine is running okay. As I mentioned before, that is my practice and I have yet to use additives.
ron.dittmer 04/02/21 05:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Nexus Chassis noise

DrewE mentions this and I support his comment. I have read a rare few complaints over the years where modifying (stretching) the wheel base effecting the length of the drive shaft was the culprit. The change in length of the drive-shaft requires it to be rebalanced. The "Ford approved" company that modified the wheel base either over-looked or improperly balanced the drive shaft. Some drive shafts get quite long and segmented, making them very sensitive to being out of balance. If not balanced right, vibration and/or other strange noises are generated. One thing certain, you do NOT want to ignore it.
ron.dittmer 03/31/21 09:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Torquing tire stud by hand

Working on so many different vehicles at an auto charity here in the mid-west, the concern I have using a torque wrench on lugs is related to corrosion/rust. A torque wrench is great when all the lugs spin on freely and all mating surfaces are clean, but add significant corrosion and the torque cannot be trusted. Rust on the mating surfaces of the rotors-to-wheels and lugs-to-wheels all play a role in lugs not remaining tight. The corrosion crumbles after the fact and then you have under-torqued lugs. That is why they suggest to re-check the lugs after a while and why I personally add a little extra torque. The under-resourced people I help rarely check tire pressure and oil level. Asking them to check lug torque isn't going to happen.
ron.dittmer 03/24/21 12:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: WB longer than 159 ins in a 23-25 ft Class C

Gjac, You've posted great conclusions. There are so many variables which translate into trade-offs. Each person has to decide his own priorities while understanding what that means in trade-offs. A few trade-offs like "poor handling" and "lack of outdoor storage" for example can be addressed with additional investment, but you simply deny yourself most others. It comes down to "I can live with this" and I can live without that".
ron.dittmer 03/24/21 07:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: WB longer than 159 ins in a 23-25 ft Class C

Our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 on an E350 has a 1.5" step up from the cab to the house floor, but many class-Cs on a E350/E450 have a higher step to avoid having rear wheel wells protruding through the floor. In our case, the wheel well protrusions are under the kitchen base cabinet and inside a closet, so there is no concern. But with the longer 176" wheel base, one wheel well might be a trip hazard in the bathroom. On the other side, the rear tires would severely impact our generous outdoor storage compartment. Our small Phoenix Cruiser has the largest outdoor storage compartment of any model Phoenix Cruiser ever made. Phoenix has a low set floor to lower the center of gravity and to reduce the over-all rig height. Our PC is only 9'-10" to the top of the a/c unit making it shorter than most other class B+ and C rigs.
ron.dittmer 03/23/21 03:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: WB longer than 159 ins in a 23-25 ft Class C

I’m sure this has been tackled by rv engineers over time. I was under the assumption that the coach was designed to fit around the wheel- wells. Isn't that why so many 24/25 footers are of only a very few floor plan designs ? In other words, if you made the WB longer on the 24/25’ , the interior wells would dictate where and how appliances and such will fit. The whole interior design would have to be reconfigured and everything the old had might not fit in the new. The weight distribution might not work too well either. Building the whole new rv at 24/25’ on a basement would make the entire package too tall.I understand the same as you. The floor plans are based on where the RV outfitter can place critical features. They can't place a toilet above dual rear tires for obvious reasons, nor can they place a toilet on one side of the rear axle, and the black tank on the other side. Just about everything else is much more forgiving.
ron.dittmer 03/21/21 04:39pm Class C Motorhomes
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 11  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.