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 > Your search for posts made by 'rgatijnet1' found 305 matches.

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RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

Salesman Switch COMMON nomenclature used by MANY folks Some folks just love to appear superior by denigrating others In the 45 years I have been an RVer, along with 27 working in the industry, this forum is the only place I have encountered that term. Just sayin’.Same here; 31 years RVing (as well as RVing as a kid with my parents prior), I NEVER heard the term "salesman switch" till I I started frequenting RV forums (and I guarantee that there is NO RV that has it labeled as such). The fact that "salesmen" use the switch between showing customers an RV is completely coincidental vs AFTER the sale when that switch will be used for years thereafter to connect/disconnect the battery. It's not about denigrating anyone, it's about using the correct terminology. If people would stop referring to the battery disconnect switch (which it is) as a salesman switch (which it isn't), perhaps the incorrect nomenclature would die. :S Since we are getting technical, the switch in question is not called a battery DISCONNECT switch, since it does not disconnect any batteries. On my Monaco it is labeled as a "Battery cut-off" switch. Battery cut-off switch The battery DISCONNECT switches, which I have two, actually disconnect the chassis or the house batteries by turning the two big red knobs.
rgatijnet1 12/10/19 03:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Extension cords

were those 70s 10 gauge wires aluminum? bumpy That is what I was thinking. I was a commercial contractor and we never used 10 gauge wire for any 120 volt outlet EXCEPT for a 30 amp 120 volt outlet. All standard outlets in a commercial project were 20 amp outlets and 12 gauge wire was used.
rgatijnet1 12/10/19 06:03am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Front cap separating from side of motorhome.

I would guess that it is probably a 1/4" blind rivet(pop rivet). To get the length I have used a piece of wire with a small 90 degree bend on the end. I inserted it in to the hold and then hooked it on the inside lip. This would give me the thickness of the material to be held together. Once you find the material thickness you can purchase the aluminum rivet that is suitable to hold things together.
rgatijnet1 12/09/19 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Extension cords

The power drop will be fine for a few lights and a TV. These items have a wide range of acceptable voltage swings. You might have a problem with high draw items like a compressor but even with a lower voltage an electric space heater would be OK also.
rgatijnet1 12/09/19 08:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Extension cords

I would not go to all of that trouble. For less than $30 you can buy a 12/3 outdoor extension cord from Amazon. Romex does not lay flat and is a PIA to roll up afterwards. With an extension cord you can roll it up when you are finished and keep it for the next time it is needed. 50' extension cord Of course you could also buy the 100' cord and eliminate all connections.
rgatijnet1 12/09/19 08:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Making new center console

That looks great. It just goes to show that owning any RV is an ongoing process. It seems we are always "improving" what the factory did. :B
rgatijnet1 12/09/19 05:51am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Continental Tires PSI rising 20

Tire pressure usually goes up when the temperature goes up.
rgatijnet1 12/07/19 04:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Continental Tires PSI rising 20

Sometimes when a tire is mounted by a rookie, he will use an excessive amount of lubricant to get the tire in place. All of that excess lubricant/moisture may be in your tire and causing your temps to increase a little higher than normal, since you did not have that issue with your other tires.
rgatijnet1 12/07/19 01:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 15 Amp Service

I just thought I would add one more thing to this topic. For about $20 you can buy a Kill-A-Watt meter to plug in to your RV cord as it is plugged into any 120 volt outlet. With the Kill-a-Watt meter you can tell EXACTLY what each appliance uses in terms of watts or amps. It will also tell you what your RV is using at idle, or when you think you have everything turned off. Then you can determine exactly what can and cannot be used when you power input is limited with a 15 amp circuit. Kill-A-Watt
rgatijnet1 12/06/19 04:58am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Xantrex Fredom 458 series inverter/charger 20 amp

On my Xantrex 458 there are DIP switches that must be set properly for the type of batteries that you have. These DIP switches are located BEHIND the Xantrex panel that you have in your coach. You have to take that information panel off to access the DIP switches. If you installed the exact same type of batteries, there should be no need to change the DIP switches. I also had two circuit beakers for the output circuits that are located on the front of the Xantrex unit itself as well as a push button circuit breaker that controls the charger portion of the inverter/charger. Make sure that all have been reset.
rgatijnet1 12/03/19 04:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What jack to have onboard for roadside tire changes?

Like someone above I have Coach Net, a cell phone, and various credit cards and cash. 78 years old and not fooling with flat tires but there is a mounted 22.5 spare sitting in my garage, why I don't know! But what about those areas of our country where there is no cell service? No cell service means an LEO will be by shortly....Dennis Good one! :B I've been in places out West where the nearest gas station was over 100 miles away. If, and it is a big if, an LEO comes by what is he going to do other than MAYBE being able to use his radio to let someone know that you are stranded? Finding a place that has a tire, and will come and change it, can mean a long long wait. Next time watch the man that comes out and changes your tires, be it 19" or 22". They all know the tricks and you can learn a lot about handling a large tire. Also you can get an inexpensive electric impact wrench that has a breakaway torque of over 1000 ft. pounds. To minimize your exposure to this problem, stick to the interstate highways.
rgatijnet1 12/02/19 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What jack to have onboard for roadside tire changes?

I have used the rear leveler, with boards under it, to raise ONE side of the rear axle enough to change a tire. I set the brakes and blocked the front axle so the coach would not roll. Naturally after I had raised the rear axle I put a jack stand under the axle for safety. For the front axle, it is really easy to use the levelers to raise the front axle, insert a jack stand, and do what you need to do.
rgatijnet1 12/02/19 04:08am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2001 Monaco Executive slide won't retract.

Thanks for the update and glad you are able to travel.
rgatijnet1 12/01/19 03:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Another ‘dadgum’ post re: tire PSI…please bear with me…

Wandering can be caused by having too little weight on your front axle. Most RV's will handle better if the front axle is loaded close to the maximum weight allowed per your placard. Try shifting some of your load around and see if you can get a little more weight on your front axle. Weight BEHIND your rear axle tends to lighten your front axle. Move those items forward if you can. Check to see what happens if your fresh water tank is full or empty, as far as front axle weight is concerned. Obviously the best thing to do would be to at least get both axle weights in lieu of a 4 corner weight.
rgatijnet1 11/30/19 04:47am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

This may sound like a stupid question but is the 30 amp plug that you are using wired for an RV or for some other appliance? The reason why I ask is that some 30 amp outlets are wired with 220 volts for things like a dryer, welder, etc, and not wired for 120 volts that is required for an RV. If the 30 amp outlet has a double 30 amp breaker, instead of a single 30 amp breaker than that is your problem.
rgatijnet1 11/30/19 04:02am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

And some folks just try to help the newbies learn a language they are new to and know nothing about. And some folks just like to post and still offer no help to the newbie with a problem. Right now he is trying to get his electrical issues fixed. Don't you think it would be best to get the problem fixed and then have a vocabulary lesson later? :R He is 1800 miles from home, it is cold there, and he does not have his furnace.
rgatijnet1 11/29/19 03:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

Yes, but not likely for a bad inverter. Check the simple things first. Do you have a voltmeter to check that both 120 volt legs of your 50 amp service have power. This could be something as simple as the campground 50 amp breaker, or a loose wire in your power cord at either end. If you do not have a voltmeter, try to find someone that does and have them check to make sure that you have 120 volts at EACH input leg of your main circuit breaker in your electrical panel. It could be a bad transfer switch a loose wire but all of that is just guessing without a voltmeter. My coach had a GFI circuit breaker in one of the basement compartments which is easy to overlook. If I used the wrong word for anything, I hope someone will correct me rather than helping the OP. :R
rgatijnet1 11/29/19 02:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

Switch the 50 amp breaker on the RV park power pole. You may have lost just one leg of the input power. The salesman switch shuts off basic power inside the coach and sometimes gets bumped to the off position. Most are right near the front door.
rgatijnet1 11/29/19 11:00am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Have no electrical power and no propane on one side of coach

The power issue is either a GFI outlet that has tripped or the inverter. These are the outlets with a red reset button on them. You may have only one or two on your coach. The other thing to check is the circuit breakers on your inverter itself. Most usually have two circuit breaker buttons that can trip. These are on the inverter and NOT in your main circuit breaker power panel. I should have added that your salesman switch, usually by the door, may have be switched off which would keep 12 volts from going to either the WH or the furnace. With no 12 volts, neither will work.
rgatijnet1 11/29/19 10:35am Class A Motorhomes
RE: inverter/charger issues

I have a class B and had inverter problems. First the solenoid by the inverter went out. I could not turn on the charger/inverter without it. I replaced it. Now my 110 outlets worked off the inverter but roof AC would not. Roof AC worked on shore power. Finally took it to a good repair shop. They checked it all over and the issue was bad inverter. It supplied basic 110 power when turned on but could not handle the power drain when AC compressor tried to start up. Luckily they had a used inverter to swap out with mine to find it. Bottom line in my opinion is that you need to be educated in all the ways the inverter chargers work or it will be very frustrating. I had a couple of other people look at it including a retired industrial electrician and a guy who tests high temperature ovens electronically and neither could figure out a way to test things. They both thought it was a bad compressor on the AC. Good luck. I would be surprised if your roof top AC unit was fed by the inverter. :? On every RV I have ever had the roof top AC was fed from shore power or generator but never from the inverter.
rgatijnet1 11/28/19 05:18am Class A Motorhomes
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