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 > Your search for posts made by 'jbrack' found 29 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
Water Heater Issue

I switched my water heater to gas for the first time in a long while and it fired up but I smelled a burning rubber smell and black soot came from the exhaust and up the side of the coach. The water heater is working and no longer has the smell or soot but it seems it doesn't burn as long as it should. Additionally, I noticed a red light on the inside control panel that I had never seen before the says DSI Fault. I googled that and read that my water heater attempted to light 3 times and failed and was now in a lock down. The cure was to turn the heater off for one minute and turn it back on, which I did. It lights as it should but I just feel the burn time is short. What is my problem?
jbrack 10/10/19 08:04am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

Ok...I located the fans behind the upper panel. Two fans and neither was turning. There is a 1/8"plywood coming up from below that completely blocks the view of the fans. The fins are out in the open but the fans are down behind the plywood. Should I cut that plywood out of there? Cant imagine what purpose it serves. Seems like it is just blocking air flow.
jbrack 09/06/19 09:49am Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

The newer models are much more forgiving than the old ones BUT, leveling is still PARAMOUNT! The fluids that circulate inside the coils are dependent on the refrigerator being level to return and work effectively. Front to back is critical and side to side is very important. Operating very long off level can cause the fluids to solidify and if that happens, you've ruined your refrigerator. Having been on marginal power is not the cause of your problem. Great info...thank you
jbrack 09/05/19 08:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

Is your rig level? It is critical on the norcolds that they be level in order to operate properly. It wasn't when I was recently doing an overnight in a parking lot and I was on propane. I suspected that might play a role in this but I have since relocated to an RV park and I am level but still with 30 amp and still having issues
jbrack 09/05/19 07:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

Not properly cooling on electric OR Propane is NOT a low amp issue 30A is NOT low amp issue either Are the external fans running? Is fridge in a slide out? Airflow is CRITCIAL to cooling process...... IS this a Norcold 1200 model? What error/fault codes are you getting? What temps are freezer & food compartment achieving? The Fridge is a 1210 model. It is in the slide. I get no error codes, it just doesn't get very cold. On the #9 setting, it is currently at 38 degrees. I am in Alberta, Canada at the moment and the outside temp is around 75. There are no external fans that I am aware of or can find. The temp in the freezer is 28 degrees. And when I said I suspect I had low amperage on at least two occasions, I meant that the entire park was serviced by an auxiliary generator. I know I had low amps because my microwave was groaning when I tried to use it. I didn't have this problem until I stayed at those two RV parks
jbrack 09/05/19 06:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

Not properly cooling on electric OR Propane is NOT a low amp issue 30A is NOT low amp issue either Are the external fans running? Is fridge in a slide out? Airflow is CRITCIAL to cooling process...... IS this a Norcold 1200 model? What error/fault codes are you getting? What temps are freezer & food compartment achieving? The Fridge is a 1210 model. It is in the slide. I get no error codes, it just doesn't get very cold. On the #9 setting, it is currently at 38 degrees. I am in Alberta, Canada at the moment and the outside temp is around 75. There are no external fans that I am aware of or can find. The temp in the freezer is 28 degrees.
jbrack 09/05/19 06:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Problem

Not properly cooling on electric OR Propane is NOT a low amp issue 30A is NOT low amp issue either Are the external fans running? Is fridge in a slide out? Airflow is CRITCIAL to cooling process...... IS this a Norcold 1200 model? What error/fault codes are you getting? What temps are freezer & food compartment achieving? The Fridge is a 1210 model. It is in the slide. I get no error codes, it just doesn't get very cold. On the #9 setting, it is currently at 38 degrees. I am in Alberta, Canada at the moment and the outside temp is around 75.
jbrack 09/05/19 06:03pm Tech Issues
Norcold Fridge Problem

I have a 2017 5th Wheel with a double door Norcold fridge. We have been up in Alaska and all around the Yukon, BC, and Alberta where we encountered RV parks with poor electrical service. At two places we were on generator power and I know I was not getting the proper amps I need. My RV is designed to run on 50 amp but I use a 30 amp adapter like everyone else does. My fridge has always performed perfectly but now I have to put the temp setting on 9 to keep the temp inside in the safe zone. My question is did I damage my fridge by using low amperage power? It won't stay cold on straight propane either.
jbrack 09/05/19 05:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Water Heater Question

Since 2004 Atwood combo WHs use common DC to control both electric & propane heating functions Running out of water in fresh water tank would NOT empty the WH Tank.... Common DC from a FUSED source goes to Both On/OFF switches then to the common circuit board Did the RED Fault Light come on? *Check the DC Dist Panel Fuse that supplies WH with DC... *Check the 2A DC fuse ON the WH Circuit Board *Check the 'thermal fuse' (in the clear tubing) that is connected to T-stat via Brwon Wire (Remove from circuit abd plug brown wire directly onto T-stat to test if WH will come on (One shot thermal fuse) Those items are common and would prevent either heat source from functioning Use a Voltmeter to follow the DC........... https://nebula.wsimg.com/obj/RTRCMkU0RDUzQ0M1ODE3RDgxMDg6YjcxODcxNGMwMGY1YjAzODVhNjY0NWNmMTFjMTg5YzY6Ojo6OjA= height=400 width=400 No 'resets' on WH except for Fault Light/Lock out (turn On/Off switch OFF---wait 30 sec---turn ON) You Sir...are a genius....it was the 2 amp fuse on the circuit boarx...back in service
jbrack 08/17/19 06:21pm Tech Issues
Atwood Water Heater Question

I was recently at an RV park that had power but no park water. I was operation off my fresh water holding tank which according to the gauge had over 1/3 of a tank. The gauge was apparently inaccurate and I ran the system dry while washing dishes. I inadvertently did not shut off the electric heater switch for an extended period of time. Now my water does not heat and I believe I burned out the heating element due to lack of water in the tank. I thought I would simply switch over to propane to heat water but it will not fire up. It doesn't even click and attempt to light. My question: Are the two heating methods not separate from each other? Would burning out my electric heating element affect the ability of the propane heater to operate?
jbrack 08/17/19 10:56am Tech Issues
Dalton Highway Conditions

We are currently in Fairbanks area and are considering driving up the Dalton Highway to maybe Coldfoot. Towing a 5th wheel and looking for any info on this stretch of road.
jbrack 07/29/19 09:26am RVing in Canada and Alaska
Current Road Conditions for the Dalton Highway

This topic has been moved to another forum. You can read it here: 29937593
jbrack 07/28/19 07:46pm Roads and Routes
Current Road Conditions for the Dalton Highway

We drove up from California for our first trip around Alaska. We are currently in Palmer and headed to Fairbanks soon. We have seen some pretty rough road so far in our journey and are considering going North on the Dalton Highway from Fairbanks to maybe Coldfoot. Does anyone know the current road conditions on that stretch of roadway? It can't be much worse than what we had on the TOK cutoff to Valdez.
jbrack 07/28/19 07:46pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
Black Water Tank Treatments

Just curious as to how long it takes for the drop-in holding tank treatment pods take to work? Does it do any good to drop one in if you will be dumping your tank within a few days? Do those things act that quickly or are they meant for longer periods of time between tank dumps? Just wondering if I'm wasting money on these things.
jbrack 07/05/19 09:15am General RVing Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace

People add muffin fans to their fridge vents to solve that problem if needed. So to help with this, how about putting a fan behind the big furnace return air vent to suck more cooling air in to where that limit switch is mounted back there? High limit switch is a safety device that SHUTS down burner because heat exchanger is overheating. Fan cooling area where high limit switch is located does NOT resolve the overheating issue. Lack of sufficient air flow THUR heat exchanger is the issue...NOT that the high limit switch is actually doing it's job as intended. Find/fix REASON high limit switch temp set point is being met. All of my duct work appears normal...the exhaust does not have an obvious obstruction when I look in with a flashlight. Would adding an additional floor vent help? I have a total of 4 vents now.
jbrack 05/24/19 07:49am Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace

Burner cycling on then off/back on/off is called 'limiting' which is when the airflow has been restricted and heat exchanger high temp limit switch is opening (too hot) then fan continues to run so temp drops...high temp limit switch closes and burner lights back off You have something obstructing/blocking either the furnace discharge air flow OR the return air to furnace Could be closed/blocked register, could be crushed ductwork, could be how/where stuff is stored Fan runs cause high temp limit switch opened.burner keeps firing back off cause thermostat temp set point has not been met....high temp limit switch controlling burner shutting down/relighting Listen to this man! This is the correct answer. This makes the most sense to me...and has been suggested to me before but none of the mechanics who have looked at the furnace have investigated this. None of my inside vent are blocked or restricted. I can see most of the ductwork from inside the belly but cant see the duct that feeds the one floor vent in the extreme rear of the coach. My next question is...if I continue to operate the furnace in this on/off fluctuating mode, will it cause any damage?
jbrack 05/22/19 09:12am Tech Issues
Atwood Furnace

I'm a little frustrated with my Atwood furnace. I have a 2018 5th wheel that I bought at the RV show in Sacramento. I hit the road to Arizona and almost immediately had trouble with the furnace. For example, if the temp was 60" inside the coach and I set the thermostat on 70", the furnace would come on and cook for about 5 minutes and then the burner would shut off. The fan was still blowing and then in about a minute, the burner would fire back up. It would cycle on and off like this until if reached the desired 70". I took it in to a mechanic in Tucson and they replaced the circuit board. About 10-12 months later, the fan when I wanted heat, the fan would come on but the burner would not light. I took it in again (Camping World in Vacaville, CA) and they replace the Sail Switch. Now it lights right away but is back to that cycling operation from before. I called Dometic who took over Atwood, and they can't help me. They said I just need to take it back to a mechanic. My furnace is accessed through the storage compartment or basement. Each time I have to remove all of my gear and take down the walls so the guy can crawl in there. It's a royal pain the butt. Anyone have a guess why its cycling like this? None of the mechanics seems to know.
jbrack 05/21/19 01:20pm Tech Issues
Cell Signal Booster

Do cell signal booster work? As most RV'ers know, most RV park wifi is basically worthless. I also have a Verizon Mifi that works off cell service. With a good cell service it works pretty good, but good cell service can also be a problem. I'm looking at a cell signal booster but a decent one is around $400 - $500. Anyone have an opinion on these boosters?
jbrack 04/11/19 12:54pm Tech Issues
RE: Shower Drain

You may not get much smell from that tank, and good idea to catch hair in screen. However with no guts in the valve, the hair should go right on through to get caught in the tank outlet valve at some point. How easy would access be to that valve? It might be best to just not allow anyone with hair to use the shower. Jerry I already told my wife she has to start using the outside shower. It's her hair that is clogging things up...mine is very short. I did look underneath and located the valve and it looks fairly easy to get to. I looked on Amazon and a replacement is around $45 but I don't want to order the wrong one, so I will get the old one out first
jbrack 03/26/19 12:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Shower Drain

BTW, using a PLUNGER on a drain that has a HEPVO valve will pull the rubber duck flaps backwards also. Don't ask how I know this:B Either way it will allow odors up from the gray tank. Gray tank smell is 10 times worse than black tank and I would get your Hepvo valve replaced. Doug I have 3 tanks...one black water and two grey. The shower and bathroom sink are on their own tank. So far no odor but I will look into replacement of the valve....so, since this occurred, I put a small screen strainer over the shower drain. But if this happens again, what is the best way to remove a hair clog? I know now not to stick a hook down the drain.
jbrack 03/26/19 10:32am Tech Issues
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