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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Replacing Bed

Replacing the mattress is a no brainers. The "matress" most have from the factory you're better off sleeping on the plywood under it. Most RVs have built in bed "frames" that hide mechanical/plumbing utilities not easily moved. If that's not the case for your particular unit you may still have to deal with the cosmetic issues involved with removal and replacement.
happy2rv 10/24/19 10:49am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: What do you want in a campground?

I agree with the other posts saying it depends. We owned 3 motor homes and only stayed in "campgrounds" a handful of times. When we had the motor homes it was more about getting to our destination, many times family located a long distance away. We would drive until we got tired, and pull off in rest areas or truck stops. We did occasionally go to campgrounds. Fort Wilderness at Disney, state parks, and a few "regular" campgrounds. Now that we have the travel trailer, we prefer to have full hookups. But the reason for the stop is the determining factor of what's a good campground. For instance, if we are stopping for a night en-route, cheap, level, clean power, and convenient access is a good campground. If we are going to make it home base for site seeing in a particular area, level and clean power are still important, but proximity / access to what we are there to see becomes, to a point, more important than price. If we are going just to enjoy the campground, then space, scenery, and quiet become significantly more important. I don't know that there is a "perfect" campground for everyone. We found Disney's Fort Wilderness to be an extremely nice campground. It has lots of amenities to offer, but for some those "amenities" like outdoor Disney Movies, or central campfire with lots of kids would be more of a nightmare than an amenity. It's also very pricey which would make it less than perfect for many. Etc...
happy2rv 10/02/19 05:43pm Travel Trailers
RE: Black & Grey tank readings

Hi, It doesn't work. Ice sliding on a film of water is pretty darn close to a zero friction environment. Google is your friend. I have googled extensively and have not found anything that "debunks" the GEO method. The videos you posted have nothing to do with the GEO method and the method has absolutely nothing to do with ice cubes. Follow the link I included in my first post and actually read the process. It's basically a mixture of calgon water softener, detergents, and bleach in the appropriate proportions. It may not be effective, but I'd still like to see a scientific analysis similar to the tests performed in the videos you posted.
happy2rv 10/02/19 12:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Black & Grey tank readings

The geo method simply doesn't do much. Some one did some testing and published it on youtube. Would love a link. Not saying it works because as indicated, I haven't tried it myself, but all of the YouTube videos I've seen on it as well as forum posts seem positive for both odor control and sensor cleaning. I already have everything, so I do intend to try it on my next outing but that will be at least a couple of weeks away... If it doesn't work, I will have flushed about $6 down the toilet. Well technically, if it does work I will have still flushed about $6 down the toilet.
happy2rv 10/01/19 10:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Black & Grey tank readings

Many people report great success with the GEO method. I haven't tried it yet, but I intend to on our next outing.
happy2rv 10/01/19 09:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Dinette removal

The picture looks like the dinette is in a slide. Looks can be deceiving though. If it is a slide, I don't think I've ever seen wood flooring in one. The obvious problem as OP suggested is the transition between floors. If its fixed and doesn't move, there might be ways to trim around the height difference. If it slides though, it will be harder to do anything with a hard flooring that looks good and will hold up. I've seen lots of vinyl with wood grain patterns in slides. They usually extend over the slide edge and have a reinforced edge sewn to the vinyl kind of like they do with carpet.
happy2rv 10/01/19 09:01pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Thinking about beds.

We replaced the RV queen in ours with a standard queen memory foam. Never even took the plastic off the original mattress, replaced it before we ever slept in it. The head of our bed sits over the outside storage compartment and the foot lifts up for storage inside. We just pulled the plywood support and replaced it with a larger piece, no extra supports or anything else. I'm not sure how thick your topper is, but I'd be worried about the transition from mattress to wooden box right where your head lays being uncomfortable. Pluses: * obviously longer mattress * easier to get a standard size replacement * easier to get standard sheets that fit correctly * new mattress is 1000% more comfortable Minuses: * Less room to walk between our dresser and the foot of the bed * The gas struts will not support the heavier mattress. We could replace them, but so far we're just using a length of 1x2 to hold the platform when we need it held open. * New mattress is significantly taller than old mattress. Extra thickness makes it more comfortable but harder to get into. * New mattress is heavier than old one. If we ever replace it, I think I will go back to a slightly thinner mattress. I think the wife ordered a 10" thick and I believe 8" is standard. Other than that, we couldn't be happier. We will never sleep on a standard RV mattress again if there is any way to avoid it.
happy2rv 10/01/19 08:54pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Storage Compartment Theft

Security is always a trade off. You trade usability and aesthetics for security. The question that each must answer for themselves is: What is the appropriate balance? What's appropriate for one, for example leaving an empty compartment unlocked, will likely be wholly inappropriate for others. There are many ways, some legal and some not, some practical and some not, to improve security. It is entirely possible to reinforce the compartment access door to the point that its "practically" impenetrable. However, doing so only does so much good... The rest of the RV isn't as easily secured. So for instance, you could replace the access door with a solid steel door, but the wall of the RV is made of an thin skin of fiberglass on the outside, thin plywood on the inside, and Styrofoam in the middle. The compartment is probably also at least partially accessible from inside the RV, so they could simply break a window climb in and access it that way. Etc... So what makes sense? There are a few simple things that can make you less attractive than your neighbors. Some of them are simple and not too invasive aesthetically. Some are less simple and more invasive. You can choose from an array of replacement cam-locks with varying degrees of improvement is quality/security.You can look at increasing the length of the locking tab on the cam locks, again with varying levels of qualityAs I suggested above, you can reinforce where the cam locks engage. This can be easily done with modest cost and modest security improvement or it can be much more extensive. For simple, just screwing an L channel to the existing door flange and the plywood floor will add a fair amount of security. To take this further, you could add reinforcement under the floor of the compartment and securely screw/bolt the L bracket to the reinforcement.Look at the reinforcing the area the cam locks are installed in. You can fabricate a plate similar to what opnspaces suggested. If you search for cam lock mounting plate, you can find them for a couple of bucks. One on the inside with a couple of short screws will provide a modest increase in security. One on each side with bolts through would significantly increase security at the cost of aesthetics. These prevent the lock from spinning in the hole in addition to spreading the force.Reinforce the door with some type of wood or metal backing. Again, this will likely come with some aesthetic trade offs.Add reinforced locking mechanism or bar only accessible from inside the trailer, assuming you have access from inside.Add a locking mechanism that only opens from inside if you have access from inside.You could add locking hasps as other suggested, quite effective, but not so aesthetically pleasing.As I already suggested consider an alarm system for the compartment and the RV. Hopefully the blaring alarm would scare them away. Most don't want the attention. You could even get something with cellular notification to alert you something has happened. As a side benefit, you could add fire alarms to the same system.
happy2rv 10/01/19 06:06pm Travel Trailers
RE: Blackstone Griddle

Wife said she wanted one rather than a grill. Well..it get little use cooks like any skillet. The wood pellet ... For me, grill and griddle serve two entirely different purposes. I don't fry in my sauce pans and I don't usually heat soup in my skillets. I understand that some may seem them as interchangeable. I also realize that many would find it unthinkable to have both a grill and a griddle. Blackstone does have a grill/griddle combo, but I don't have any experience with it. Personally, I think I would rather have more portable units of each type for the RV. So, why a griddle? I can't get the pancake batter and eggs to stay above the grill ;). Seriously though, I've found trying to use grill toppers to be cumbersome and hard to control the heat. For many griddle uses, you can achieve the same objective with an electric griddle or an electric skillet. I'v used an electric skillet for years in the RV because its light weight, heats evenly, is non stick, and is portable. However, for some things, like hibachi, there is no substitute for a steel flat top griddle. Plus it doesn't really look all that "cool"/manly to be using your electric skillet on the picnic table. Why a grill? As Burger King used to say: it's flame kissed. I prefer burgers and steaks to be flame grilled. I tend to think of pellet grills more as smokers than grills. I have owned gas smokers and I've owned a Traeger pellet grill. I finally gave my Traeger to my son and went back to a gas smoker because I finally found one had a thermostat. There were a lot of things I liked about the pellet grill, but one annoying thing. Again, I used it as a smoker which means long sessions. Anytime the power would flicker, the controller would lose its place and start over feeding the pellets which would cause it to fill the burner and smoke like crazy until, if left unchecked, the burner full of pellets flashed over with an enormous fireball.
happy2rv 09/30/19 09:56pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: 1998 Aljo 21.5 footer

Welcome to the forum. I don't have any specifics on this brand, but not all RV's have a battery disconnect. I had to add one on my 2018 TT. Some use a a manual disconnect switch, others use a solenoid with a remote switch, and some like mine have no factory disconnect. Hopefully someone with brand specific information will answer you. It would help if you post the full model of your trailer in your signature or post. I'm guessing based on the length indicated, its an M-2115.
happy2rv 09/30/19 08:28pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Plus AND Minus 12v from AC to Thermostat

Can't find any data on 3313379.000, but did find this link which I believe to be a similar Dometic single zone control kit / thermostat. These aren't your typical thermostat installations as many have already suggested. Which is why its important to have information on specifics. The wiring diagram for this unit on the last page, assuming its similar to yours, shows the connections. Three wires to the thermostat from the control box. Red, black, and orange. The red is +12V from control box, the black is 12V ground or the negative terminal of the battery, and the orange is a data wire that carries all of the control signals. All three connect between the thermostat and control box. The black wire at control box also connects to 12V ground (negative). A separate wire on the control box connects to 12V from the converter or battery. This is the +12V supply line. The control box may or may not do something to switch the 12V its supplying to the thermostat, but it is supplying the 12V. So, answering your original question again, when you disconnect 12V from the control box, you disconnect it from the t-stat. The red and black lines should have 12V on them and the orange won't necessarily have a readable or reliable voltage since it is a data wire.
happy2rv 09/30/19 05:28pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Storage Compartment Theft

You might also consider an alarm system with the loudest most obnoxious siren you can possibly locate blaring right there in the compartment. A car alarm or even most home alarm systems operate off of 12V. It wouldn't prevent damage to the RV, but it might prevent them from sticking around to rummage through whatever is in the compartment.
happy2rv 09/30/19 06:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Winterizing follies :)

I'm sure you don't want to hear this now, but I just got threaded CPVC ball valves that fit in place of the drain plugs for the low point drains.
happy2rv 09/29/19 09:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Blackstone Griddle

I have the 36" at home. I've never used it camping. We use it to cook hibachi style Japanese on a lot. The 17" is intriguing for camping, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to convert it from 1 lb bottles to hook up to the grill's quick connect on the trailer. I'm afraid the 1 lb bottles would drive me mad.
happy2rv 09/29/19 08:42pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Storage Compartment Theft

I can think of many ways to "improve" the security of most storage compartments. Unfortunately most of them will only keep the honest at bay. The simplest thing is to change the cam locks with something other than a CH751 key. While doing this you could look at reinforcing the area where the cam lock engages. I could see adding a section of steel L channel screwed to the existing thin compartment door strip where the cam lock engages and then also screwing it to the floor of the compartment. This would probably require a longer cam lock, but those are available. This would give you a slightly more secure compartment. However, as you mention, the doors aren't that thick. If they want in, the could simply bash the door in. You could reinforce the door with plywood backing, but this would require visible bolt heads to be effective. I would be looking long and hard at the storage yards security practices and consider whether better storage might be the answer. Yes, it could happen in a campground or parked somewhere on a trip, but most never have problems with other campers around.
happy2rv 09/29/19 08:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: New trailer came off hitch!!

^Ok? I’ve never had an electric jack either, couldn’t imagine cranking the jack back up significantly every time I hook up a trailer. Let’s put this in perspective. Of the 100,000s? Of trailers that likely get hitched up every day, every year, how many come off? Yes due diligence to make sure you hooked up the trailer right is warranted, but how many people check tire pressure every day or check the oil every day or check lights every day? I’m sure a few will chime in and say “me”, but it’s risk vs reward type thing. I suppose if one doesn’t have the confidence that they can actually latch a trailer right, then it is certainly a failsafe, but again, probability type thing. I can't imagine having a travel trailer that doesn't have an electric tongue jack. I'm sure I wouldn't do this with a manual crank either, but with the electric jack, its much easier to raise the trailer to get the anti-sway bars in place. It's a side benefit that its a pretty reliable test that the hitch is firmly in place.
happy2rv 09/29/19 06:28pm Beginning RVing
RE: Plus AND Minus 12v from AC to Thermostat

More confused than ever? It would help if you identified the models of the components involved and the problem you are trying to solve. Without knowing the components involved, any answers will be speculation and generalities. I think its probably safe to say, what you are referring to as minus 12V is indeed 12V negative or 12V ground as others have suggested. Most things installed in an RV aren't fed directly from the converter, but +12V is fed from the load center. 12V ground is usually fed from a bus bar located in or near the load center. As to your second question "why?", I believe you posted your own answer. The schematic of the A/C control box indicates that the plus AND minus 12v come from the power converter and are passed on, thru connectors, to both the A/C control box and also to the thermostat. When you disconnect the power feeding the A/C control box, you disconnect the power feeding the thermostat.
happy2rv 09/29/19 03:18pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Which models have factory dog or wolf logo on camper?

Yes, but it is not the same. Putting a 5.0 Gt sticker on a v6 mustang dont make it so. Obviously you're free to do what you want. We don't have to understand it, but I think your analogy falls apart. If you take the badge off of the GT, its still a GT. It's the differences in the drive train and suspension that, for most, make the GT worth the difference in expense. Now, if the travel trailer were somehow different because of its name I would agree. But I'm not aware of any differences. Its not like the inside is made of rawhide or has a special dog bed that others don't. The bounder was always Kangaroo themed. Until the year we bought ours, they always had a big Kangaroo graphic on the side. Mine came with a decal tucked away in a drawer that we never put on. The graphic didn't change how it operated or functioned in any way.
happy2rv 09/28/19 01:28pm Travel Trailers
RE: Dometic refrigerator left off for 10 mo. not working

Not faulting you for trying the board. I completely understand. Most sellers frown on returning parts after they've been installed, but YMMV. There are a number of potential problems that could explain your problem, unfortunately, I'm not sure you're going to identify the problem through parts swaps at this point. As I see it, here are the most likely culprits in what I would consider the most likely order of probability: Faulty heating element (there are multiple ways an element can "fail" without complete failure. It could be or could have been heating without putting out enough heat. Bad connections in the lines connecting the heating element Something I and others here are overlooking or haven't had the ability to observe. It can be difficult to troubleshoot with the best information and first hand observations. Could still be a bad board. I'm not sure I understand what caused the fuse on the old or new board to blow. I wasn't quite following when you described what happened with the new board. Power supply issues. Unlikely, but it's possible that you have power at the outlet but its not "right". The rudimentary test of unplugging the refrigerator and plugging something else in only indicates whatever you plugged in worked. The only way to truly verify it's right is to measure the voltage on the outlet while the refrigerator is operating. Again, this is not at all likely to be the problem, but it is possible. Gremlins ;)
happy2rv 09/26/19 10:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Electrical

Just making sure, you actually unscrewed the GFCI outlet and pulled it out to test the wires feeding it? Also, just to clarify, last post I saw you hadn't verified the voltage coming out of the circuit breaker feeding the GFCI. Did you do that? If so, I missed it. You indicate the main breaker seems fine. If other outlets and appliances in the RV are working, the main breaker is obviously OK as are the breaker for those items. What's important is whether there is voltage coming out of the breaker feeding the GFCI and if its actually reaching the GFCI. You can't tell by looking at the breaker. In a perfect world, a tripped breaker will be visibly moved or have an indicator, but they can and do trip without moving the handle and they can and do fail without any visible indication.
happy2rv 09/26/19 10:07pm Truck Campers
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