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 > Your search for posts made by 'dougrainer' found 869 matches.

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RE: Intermittant A/C

My Dutchman Denali 5th Wheel has a Dometic Roof Air Unit Almost all of the time, it runs just fine. Every once in a while, it will shut off and restart at what sounds like a slower fan speed. Then after a minute or two it will shut off again and restart at normal fan speed. Its almost like the rig is getting a drop in power from the pedestal but I have no way of checking that. That's not good. It will eventually burn up your unit. Unplug the converter. This will allow the AC the full incoming power (your converter cycles as needed). Explain your reasoning behind this statement. The converter only pulls at max about 3 amps. If you unplug your converter, then your RV will go dead from the battery going dead after a few days. The Converter has NO BEARING on RV roof AC operation. Doug
dougrainer 04/05/20 07:48pm Tech Issues
RE: leveling jacks

As the Germans say it, "macht keinen Unterschied" Makes no difference. Obviously, you have NO CLUE or Expertise to make this statement. Ask yourself why Electric jacks went out of style almost 12 years ago. Doug
dougrainer 04/05/20 07:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: leveling jacks

99% of MOTORHOME Leveling jacks installed in the past 12 years are Hydraulic due to the numerous problems/failures caused by Electric jacks. I state 99%, because there may still be a Motorhome Electric Jack maker out there. Doug
dougrainer 04/05/20 07:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: levelers

After 40 years as an RV tech, this is the order I would use for Jacks. Doug 1. HWH far above the rest 2. Equalizer 3. LCI 4. Bigfoot
dougrainer 04/04/20 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: What manufacturers will this recession bring down?

A manufacturer can remain idle for a short period of time, just have to cover their fixed costs. I wonder who will eat the flooring costs of all the new rigs on the lots; manufacturers, dealers, or the banks. As I understood it, manufacturers shouldered the burden of maintaining inventory at the dealers in '08, which was a major cause of their demise. I hope this doesn't last long. When you state this, what do you mean, "manufacturers shouldered the burden of maintaining Inventory at the dealers in 08"? Are you saying the manufacturers PAID on their dime for dealer Inventory? If so, That is so wrong it is not funny. Dealers PAY the Manufacturer for the Inventory once it hits the dealers lot and that inventory and floorplan interest is paid by the dealer. The dealer does NOT own the inventory but it is financed by the Finance institution that loans the money to the dealer. The simple fact as it relates to Monaco, was, they ALWAYS made excess UNSOLD motorhomes(hundreds) that dealers had not purchased. Every year for the previous years from about 2001 until they went under, they sold hundreds of those new year old models at way below invoice to dealers that wanted to buy large lots. Monaco did this because they were inept at slowing down their production lines every year. We were once one of those original dealers and we purchased 50 year old units at a time on this program. We got them 10's of thousands below invoice and had no problem selling them. BUT, when the seeds of 08 started, Monaco had this excess inventory and smart dealers realized that they could not purchase them without risking their own RV dealership. Once the 08 started, Monaco went down fast due to extreme lack of cash. NOW, this crisis is a LOT different than the 08 crash. YES, there will be failed companies but not because they did not have adequate cash or be smart about business. NOBODY EVER FIGURED THIS TYPE OF CRISIS WOULD HAPPEN. IT HAS NEVER HAPPENED BEFORE IN THE USA. As I write this Leisure / Tiffin/ Jayco(Thor also)/Airstream have closed their manufacturing for the month of April. These are OEM's I deal with. Others are probably also shuttered. Good news is, for people that have cash or credit, you can probably get a fantastic deal on almost any RV out there for the next 90 days or more. Only a FOOL would attempt to keep units on his lot without selling at cost or below, because his Floorplan Interest and fixed costs remain. Doug
dougrainer 04/04/20 03:58pm Around the Campfire
RE: auto Levelers

Our motorhome is a 2016 Tiffin 32 SA with an HWH automatic hydraulic leveling system IF, after trying to Auto level, the same jack refuses to extend at all, but WILL extend in manual mode, it would not be a pressure switch. The Pressure Switch only becomes involved once a Jack Touches the ground and starts to raise the RV. When you manually extend that jack, does the RED led downlight come on? Also, YES, all 4 jacks should be on the ground when in Auto level on a HWH system, before the system shuts down. For fun, here is the Service manual for your system. Are you waiting until the touch pad turns OFF after Auto leveling. Do all 4 red LED down lights come on? When all 4 jacks are extended? In Auto level just 3 red LED lights come on? Doug https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml48380.pdf
dougrainer 04/03/20 12:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

BLF13, The 2nd link refers to water intrusion. Atwood/Dometic has a Recall retrofit kit to move the Control module up off the floor of the furnace to prevent corrosion and shorting out of the Control board. Also, I have never asked, but my understanding of the slope metal on some furnace exhaust vents and what is called a restrictor(round type washer) on other is to prevent water intrusion. It keeps rain from sliding down the tube and getting in the combustion chamber. Doug
dougrainer 04/03/20 07:22am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

I just remembered-----Dometic/Atwood has a recall/TSB for defective Sail Switch and mount on some models. Not specifically for this problem, but it may be that the sail switch is closing and opening causing the short cycling. Since you have talked to Dometic, send them the model and serial if you have not done so, and see if this model is under that TSB. Doug
dougrainer 04/03/20 07:16am Tech Issues
RE: Untangling an electrical mess! Need some guidance/paid help

The DC and AC are separate in an RV. Most of the HOUSE appliances use DC current. The exceptions are 1. Roof AC uses 120 2. Microwave uses 120 3. Refer uses 12 volt DC to run the controls, but uses 120 volt to operate the Heat element when NOT using the LP side of the refer. 4. TV's and DVD/VCR's use 120 volt 5. Now we talk about what you are confused about. You see and posted pics of the Power Center which has the 120 breakers on to and beside which has the 12 volt DC fuses. The BOTTOM section is indeed the CONVERTER. The Converter takes 120 volt current and CONVERTS that to 12 volt DC. This is standard for almost all RV's. This is how you maintain and operate all the DC items in the house section of the RV when connected to 120 shore Power or have the Genset running . 6. INVERTER is not a term you need to worry about on your particular RV INVERTERS take 12 volt BATTERY power and convert 12 volt DC to 120 volt AC current to operate selected appliances in the RV. When you do not use the Genset or Shore 120 power. Doug
dougrainer 04/02/20 11:57am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

The difference in the restrictor may make a difference. BUT, Has the furnace operated correctly prior to this problem? If so, then it should have malfunctioned from the beginning if the restrictor is wrong. Doug
dougrainer 04/02/20 11:29am Tech Issues
RE: Untangling an electrical mess! Need some guidance/paid help

1. There is no such thing as a DC neutral buss. 2. If outside the box, it is usually the GROUND/Negative BUSS for the 12 volt DC appliances and connection from the Chassis frame ground 3. The wire(Black) that has the 2 wires soldered together, that is the HOT 120 wire that comes from the CONVERTER to the 120 breaker in the breaker box. The soldered end is installed in the breaker(15 or 20 amp) and the Black loose pigtail is wire nutted to a 120 appliance or 120 wall receptacle as its FEED 120 power. 4. The box on the bottom of your power center is the Magnetek Power Converter itself. 5. The ONLY stranded wires will be the 3 120 wires FROM the 30 amp Power cord in the pic where you are holding the soldered wire. The other stranded wires will be that black soldered wire you are holding and the WHITE Neutral wire that runs from the CONVERTER along with the Black soldered wire that connects to the 30 amp breaker 6. Remember, EXCEPT for item 5 above. any other stranded wires will be 12 volt DC wires. The Romex 120 wiring leaving the Breaker panel going to 120 receptacles and 120 appliances will be solid core copper. 7. Here is where it gets tricky. From your last 2 pics, it appears the 12 volt DC wires were 2 stranded Black and white together. USUALLY, the WHITE is the Ground/Negative. The BLACK will be 12 volt positive. This is standard RV wire color. Don't use Automobile color standards. I state this because you stated the WHITE wires were all together on an outside the power center wire BUSS. They use a common Ground. The Black wires will be connected to the 12 volt fuse panel. Doug
dougrainer 04/01/20 03:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic A/C and CCC1 Tstat E1 error

You just need the RJ11 modular ends. Home Depot and Lowes sell them and the install tool also. It is extremely easy to cut the old end off and crimp a new end on. Make sure you get the 4 wire ends. Just follow the 4 wire color alignment from the old plug to insert the cable. I would do this to make sure you don not have a problem with the original ends. I do this as SOP when diagnosing this type problem. Doug
dougrainer 04/01/20 03:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

Is the furnace installed in a slide room? Not likely, but I need to know. Doug
dougrainer 04/01/20 11:30am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

Great information Doug, I'll test the regulator as per your suggestion. Thanks! I took the RV to the shop specifically asked them to test the regulator. When he called me later in the day to give me the results, I asked if the regulator was OK and he said "the pressure is good". The invoice says "ran LP system check, pressure test, leak down test, all passsed. Held for 20 minutes at 12 in WC". It's been working fine but not confident it will last. If/when the problem returns, I will test regulator and inspect orifice. What they did was correct for what you asked them to do. BUT, with your problems they should have done a load test if you informed them of the circumstances you are having. ALL they did was verify LP static pressure and the Leak down test confirmed NO LP leaks in your system. Doug
dougrainer 04/01/20 11:30am Tech Issues
RE: Dometic A/C and CCC1 Tstat E1 error

We have 2 separate tstats. One in living and one in bedroom. Both 2 stats say Zone 1. I taped the phone quick connects so they would stay in the coupler better. Did you unplug the phone type plugs and check for corrosion? Doug
dougrainer 04/01/20 11:27am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

Just received word from the shop - LP pressure is good, circuit board is good. Next step, inspect the orifice for debris. HOW is the shop testing the LP regulator? A defective regulator will show GOOD LP pressure. It is when you are having a demand on the regulator that the regulator malfunctions and cannot keep the correct pressure with the volume increase. Is this unit at a shop? Or you just took the Regulator to them? A quick way to determine LP function without a Manometer is to turn on the LP water heater and the range burners and then start the furnace. IF the range burners diminish at all or almost go out when the furnace attempts to light, your LP regulator is bad. OR, if when you start the LP water Heater the range burners do the same diminish, your regulator is bad. Doug
dougrainer 03/31/20 01:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Dometic A/C and CCC1 Tstat E1 error

You do not have a Penguin model. What did you tape off?????? Did you actually see the Phone type quick connects? If you have 2 AC units, either one can cause your problem with communication. The phone type cable usually goes from the Zone 1 Roof AC to the Wall tstat. Then there is a phone type cable going from the Zone 1 to the Zone 2 control board. On motorhomes Zone 1 is the front AC. On 5th wheel's the Zone 1 will be where the Living room is located. Doug
dougrainer 03/31/20 01:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Hydro Flame 8500 series furnace

The OP just joined. The OP needs to understand to ALWAYS post 1. Year and Model RV 2. Brand and Model of the appliance, in this case Roof AC and Furnace 3. Without that info you cannot get accurate help 4. You would not post on an Auto forum, my car runs bad and not state year Brand and Model of auto. Doug
dougrainer 03/31/20 10:12am Tech Issues
RE: Hydro Flame 8500 series furnace

Someone probably replaced the OEM tstat with a aftermarket home type and just used the lo fan as the return to the furnace because they did not know how to wire it. If original, then someone has miswired it. Doug After reading the post again, IF that tstat does NOT operate the roof AC at all, then that Tstat is aftermarket and is not wired correctly. Does the wall tstat state HEAT and COOL? A COOL only tstat the temp thermistor or bi metal spring is wired/coiled in reverse than for a HEAT(furnace Tstat) only tstat. The OP needs to state what Brand is listed on that wall tstat.
dougrainer 03/31/20 10:05am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace Short-Cycling

That tongue looking thing un-screws along with the sparker unit and the orifice can then be seen. You can check that for if its hole is plugged up. Also confirm the sparker gap is correct--could matter even more for the new gap flame sensor method. The screen on that tongue eventually rusts out in places. The furnace burning gets wonky from the flame being exposed where there is no screen anymore. You can get a new one from Amazon. Be sure to get the right part when the time comes. There are different tongues by models of furnace. Just got one for my old 8531. This post explains where the orifice IS. When you have microscopic debris floating around behind the orifice, it gets in front of the orifice hole and blocks the LP for awhile. That is why I keep asking about the orifice. Obviously, you are confused as it seems you do not know what the orifice is. Remove the orifice and verify there is no debris in the cavity behind the orifice and the orifice hole is clear. You can use PC can air to blow it out. Now, I am almost 100% sure your problem is a bad LP regulator from your posts on the way it malfunctions. REPLACE the LP regulator and then retest. FORGET the exhaust tube system. You are not going to have a problem with the exhaust tube and parts of it. There are hundreds of thousands of this model Furnace out there with that same exact exhaust tube and NONE cause problems. Doug
dougrainer 03/31/20 10:02am Tech Issues
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