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 > Your search for posts made by 'bsheet2' found 49 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: C Tables ??

Thanks for the replies and ideas. I think we will start out using some TV trays we already have and see how that goes. I like the cube idea. That should be very stable. But I think the better half wants something taller.
bsheet2 08/26/19 04:54pm General RVing Issues
C Tables ??

Our sitting area in our class A motorhome is lacking in a place to sit a drink or food while relaxing or watching TV. Does anyone use C Tables or other type furniture in their RV?? If so, what do you use? Does it fold up for storage? Brand? Cost? Etc? Here is an example. But don't think it folds up. Ctable Thanks!
bsheet2 08/25/19 04:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: Bought a coffee boiler what is it?

Here is the cold drip coffee maker. link
bsheet2 08/22/19 04:34am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: A newby question

use a crock pot in the sink start your meal before pulling out for trip it'll be done when you pull in for the night. Good idea!
bsheet2 08/20/19 06:47am Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Ford F53 Suspension

Sumo springs do help and are an easy install. Koni FSD shocks really help too. We just did a full bore upgrade to our F53: 1 3/4" Roadmaster replacing factory front anti sway bar, added two additional forward facing rear anti sway bars for a total of 3 on rear, rear trac bar to prevent tail wag, Saf-T-Plus steering stabilizer, and quad Koni FSD shocks all around. Also had a 4 corner weight done which stated adjusting tire pressure down to 88 psi and a laser alignment. I could not believe the difference in handling and ride comfort the changes made. No longer whipped after 4 hours of driving and fighting the coach! If you were to take a piecemeal approach - do the shocks, front sway bar and possibly the rear trac bar, then as time and money allows, follow up with the rest, or, just a piece at a time. We decided to just bite the bullet and do it all at once rather than making 3 or 4 trips back and forth over time to get the upgrades. So did you put the Sumo Springs on also?? Or just the items you listed.
bsheet2 08/18/19 07:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

Thanks for that info. I have detector installed. But I really like the stack! Will keep that on my wish list.
bsheet2 08/17/19 10:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: A newby question

LOL. What a variaty of responses. My real question was, "Do you move cooking outside to keep from heating up the RV in the summer heat?" I guess that is a no brainer though.
bsheet2 08/17/19 04:19pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

bsheet2....Do your slideouts have covers? Yes. The slide outs have covers.
bsheet2 08/17/19 05:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: A newby question

Thanks for replies.
bsheet2 08/16/19 09:07pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

That's great info. Thanks!
bsheet2 08/16/19 06:52pm Class A Motorhomes
A newby question

We just bought a motor home. Gonna do some touring. Trying to provision the beast with pots , pans, etc. We have an old toaster oven left over from way back when we has an old Apache pop up camper. It had no oven. So the toaster over was very useful. My wife would like to know if it is worthwhile to bring along the toaster oven. This might not heat up the MH as much as our propane stve during these high heat days. Plus we could use the toaster oven outside. What is your experience??
bsheet2 08/16/19 05:17pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Bought a coffee boiler what is it?

We do up cold drip coffee. Use a whole can. Soak it over night. Drain the coffee (almost syrup) into a carafe. Keep in refrigerator. Use sort of like instant coffee. Fill coffee cup by about 1/5. Top up with water. Microwave 2 min. Presto. Smooth fresh coffee. The cold drip takes most of the bitterness out of coffee. So it is rich and smooth. My wife mixes about 1/3 coffee cup then tops up with milk. This is a New Orleans thing. A batch usually lasts about a week. Very easy. We like to use French Market coffee from New Orleans. There is a kit you can purchase. Just search on cold drip coffee if interested.
bsheet2 08/16/19 05:12pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

We have run our gen day and night for as long as we needed it . That's what its for . I'm not going to try to sleep when its hot while all I have to do is start the gen . Diesel is currently cheap so spend some dollars and sleep well . Actually the Onan likes to run . Low hours on one is not always a good thing . Well if we were camping , for sure the genny would run at night! But we are just here at the house packing it and learning how to use the thing. On a gas genny, supposed to oil change every 150 hours. That comes up quick if you run it 24x7.
bsheet2 08/16/19 05:02pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

Actually the AC did better today. I started everything early in the morning and we minimized going in and out. It stayed decent in the heat of the afternoon.I would never shut it off in TX heat. Let it cycle overnight and as the sun comes up it will run continuous all day. Running on the genny. Don't have a 30 amp to plug in to. Prefer not to run the genny all night.
bsheet2 08/16/19 11:52am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

Since your coach was made by the same company that made mine they may have similar ductwork. Mine has a duct on either side of the AC units about 10" wide and 3" high running the full length of the coach. The distribution from the factory was very poor since the vents were evenly spaced with total disregard for where the heat was generated so I bought 4 more vents and the correct size hole saw and put some more in where I thought that they were needed. Much better now. As for the comment that you have to live with the noise I bought some covers for the return that really quieted them down. Everyone agrees that it was a huge improvement. We can actually have conversations at the kitchen table now. I have Dometic AC's but I think that they have versions for Coleman AC's as well. Wacko AC silencer My Dometics had a big discharge grill for "concentrated quick cooling" that I was afraid that I would miss. After adding vents straight out from where the cold air enters the ductwork I don't miss that at all and it is still quiet. I was also concerned that the flow would be reduced without that large noisy vent so I bought a vane type wind speed gauge and convinced myself that when I shut the noisy vent the air simply went somewhere else with very little loss so I haven't lost any significant capacity. Shutting off air vents in the over-cooled bedroom also mostly just routs the air to the front areas. The Wacko's are a bit pricey but they are still chump change in the total cost of owning the RV and made the family much happier. Good luck! Thanks for that info. I will have to open things up and see if I can figure out the ducting. Will check out the noise dampener as well.
bsheet2 08/16/19 11:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

I had the same struggle recently with my Thor Palazzo about the same size. My AC's are ducted and I used an infrared thermometer to measure the temps inside the ductwork. I was actually getting 25 to 30 degree temperature drop so I came to the same conclusion as you, the unit just isn't very well sealed/insulated. At least with ducted AC's I could have both units working on the kitchen/living areas and managed to keep them comfortable. I don't know what type of stove that your camper has but mine is a little bit older unit and came with a gas stove. In expectation of heat being an issue I bought a 2 burner induction cooktop for the trip and believe that cooking on it instead of the gas cooktop helped a lot. The cooktop was $180 and I found a surprisingly good set of induction cookware for another $80 so altogether $260. It really did reduce the amount of heat put into the coach and is much easier to clean up. About the only other easy things would be to make sure that you have double layer covers on your Fantastic roof fans and to pull in a slide during the day if that doesn't cause too much discomfort. One final thing but it would be a bit expensive. I have heard claims that the Atwood AC's have more real capacity than the other brands and are quieter. I can't vouch for that so take it with a grain of salt. I have been trying to figure out how to compare brands myself but haven't come up with a good way yet. Thanks for the responses. I have arrived at the conclusion that I need to focus on improving insulation before I take any drastic steps. Something I did discover. There are two AC vents from the ducted vent system that are under the drop down bed when it is raised. I dropped the bed down yesterday to put sheets on it and found it there was a large volume of nice cold air coming out of those vents. Suddenly that whole forward area started getting nice and cool. I started checking other vents and found there are two that hardly have anything coming out of them. We ran the AC for a while longer and with the drop down bunk lowered about a foot or so. The AC performed much much better. Seems a quarter of the air was not making it into the cabin. THat unit was just installed. I wonder if they messed up the tie in to the duct system??? Anyone know how to check it??? Can I drop down the inside ceiling panel as see ?? Anyway, at least we know what to do now to keep things comfortable.
bsheet2 08/16/19 08:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where are RV weigh stations - Houston ?

I for one, only weigh each axle and then add 10 -15 psi over the inflation tables for taking care of all the variables. Also use the truck stations along the interstate and have even been know to stay overnight is some instances. After all they're free and the personnel are always friendly and glad to do it. Last time, was in June along I95 in CT, whereas the one official wanted to know all about Motorhomes and showed us the best spot for parking. This made it all too convenient, by getting off of a crowded highway, during rush hour and for making an early arrival at our CG in RI, the next morning. Good way to go about it I am sure. I had seen some info about my particular model MH that one side may be a good bit heavier than the other. Based on my weight data today it looks like that is true. If I fill my potable water tank full There is almost a 1000 pound heavier load on my right rear wheel than on the left rear wheel. The front wheels are loaded about the same. My fear was just adding a fudge factor might not be enough. Glad I got the 4 quadrant weights. I likely will travel with 50% potable water to lighten the right side some. And put heavier stored items on the left side. Balance things out a bit more.
bsheet2 08/14/19 08:13pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where are RV weigh stations - Houston ?

Success! Was able to weigh my MH today at the Flying J near Hempstead, Texas just off HYW 290. Was able to get the 4 quadrent weights. First weigh which give total and seperate weights for front and rear axals. Then reweigh ($2 more) by putting only the left side of the MH on the scales. This gave wheel weight for left side front and back. Then calculated the right side wheel weights by subtracting the left side wheel(s) from their axel weight. Looks like I should use about 90 psi in all tires. And the right rear wheel wheel(s) can have almost 1000 lbs more weight on it than the left. Will probably only carry about 40 or 50 gallons of potable water when traveling to even things up a bit. The potable water tank is on the right side. Thanks!
bsheet2 08/14/19 02:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where are RV weigh stations - Houston ?

You might try A-1 Scales as I remember you can get all 4 corners there,lots of room to do it. Thanks! I will try Flying J first. If that doesn't pan out will give A1 Scales a call.
bsheet2 08/13/19 06:46am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Conditioner Performance

As far as testing the AC units: Measuring Intake Air Temp And output air temp (at closest air registrar if you cant measure in the main Plenum) you should see 15 - 20° differential. Thanks for the replies everyone. I do want to comment on the 15-20 degree temperature differential though. I am an engineer, sorry I can't help it. I have heard this temperature differential quoted a few times. However, I do not think this is accurate. I think we should be seeing 18 to 20 degrees temp differential -- minimum. This is an educated guess right now based on a knowledge of how home AC is designed. I have been trying to find design info about our RV AC units but have not laid my hands on any yet. But I think most AC units are designed to achieve a 20 degree temp differential. Then they allow for a 10% (or 2 degree) loss of cooling due to ducting or other losses. I am certain this is the basis for a home AC. Background - if you want it. Several years ago when we purchased a new home the AC was not working well at all. After a saga with the contractor he finally sent a consultant over to take a look. The consultant was a retired lead designer that had worked for Carrier. Everything changed as soon as he walked onto the site. I learned the basis of how the AC system is designed. It should achieve a delta T of 20 degrees measured immediately after the blower fan before going into the ducts. They then allow for the air to gain 2 degrees of heat in the ducts running through the attic. So, you should see at least 18 degrees delta T at each and every duct outlet. If not, something is wrong. The issues we found in my house: - The attic was too hot. Not enough ventilation. - Not enough flow in some ducts. Slow flow allows more heat input from the attic and not enough volume of cool air in that room. Larger diameter ducts needed. - Some main ducts were very long. Long length allows extra heat into the duct. Larger diameter and double insulation was the cure. By the end of this saga I learned a lot about AC system design and what we should be seeing to meet what it is designed for. The question is, is the design basis the same for RV AC's??
bsheet2 08/12/19 08:01am Class A Motorhomes
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