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 > Your search for posts made by 'bobndot' found 234 matches.

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RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

UPDATE: Furnace worked all week just fine! I did inspect the ducts underneath cabinetry and appears they were shortened to fit more snug and without any kinks. So, most likely the thermostat (and will replace promptly if this ever happens again!) before going to RV mechanic. "most likely the thermostat" yes, I agree with you, just stick with what you have now...it works . Sometimes home type digital thermostats can be used and sometimes not. Well, look at the positive side of all this, think of how much lighter your rv is now that you have shortened your ductwork :B Glad it all worked out and you had a good time in N.C. be well, Bob
bobndot 11/15/19 09:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2020 Jayco GrayHawk Roll up window shades?

Are your shades the slow roll up type with a round spring loaded button at each end cap? If so, they are held in place by pressure using spring clips at each end. A flat blade screw driver will ease the shade out of each clip at each end. If that's not your type of shade maybe the below link might help. I know you have Jayco but sometimes the same shades are used. http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32692 this link shows the clip type that FR uses. That's what I have. The roller part of the shade just gets pulled down from the U-shaped clips that hold it in place. See pics in the below post. http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f112/how-to-access-and-adjust-manual-shades-180205.html
bobndot 11/14/19 07:13pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sagging Slideout

You need to find dealer or mobile rv repairman that has the proper equipment to handle something as large as a slide-out, especially a full wall slide. You can google the problem and read the results to give some kind of idea of what to expect. This quote is from someone who fixed his on a Monaco MH- "after further investigation i realized that the front roller that supports the slideout is just screwed into the plywood floor. I removed the rollers and fabricated a steel bracket that I welded to the existing cross bars of the frame. now the roller assembly bolts to the steel bracket rather than the floor. solved the sagging and after a few minutes of adjusting the other rollers i had the slide out working smoothly and sealing completly. "
bobndot 11/12/19 04:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lance 1121 compatibility

What's important is rolling down the road weight as well as its length. read the post by NRALIFR re: weight 2. If you are looking at that model year(s) …….. Guys , correct me if i'm wrong , Wasn't it that early model Lance with the sagging slideout problem ? Didn't sleepy rebuild an 1161 which had the same basic build as the 1121 ? 1161 and 1121 sagging slide see repair by 'Sleepy'
bobndot 11/10/19 08:09am Truck Campers
RE: Limit switch trips on Atwood furnace

YouTube has 'how to' info , Flame Sensor testing; how to easily test a RV furnace
bobndot 11/06/19 11:09pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

Thank you for the update, it might have been a combination of the thermostat and that kinked hose. Either way, its good news to hear that it cycled enough times to keep it warm. Enjoy, N.C. Bob
bobndot 11/05/19 02:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winterization issues

Scroll down in this link , Look at the RV Heater Bypass system diagram and see the position of the valves. https://www.fretzrv.com/how-to-winterize-your-rv , Near the water pump: Opening the 'antifreeze pick up tube valve' to draw antifreeze from the bottle thru the pump and thru the lines is just a 3-way selector valve with the purpose of drawing antifreeze or not. Just to be clear, that's an independent valve and has nothing to do with the bypass system on the WH. The WH should have its own bypass valves if so equipped. If you see antifreeze on the ground then its coming out a LP drain tube that you left open or its draining out of the water heater drain plug that you left open. But I don't think that's the case because you would see that, it would be obvious. If that's the case, you are filling the WH and its coming out the WH drain because the bypass valves are in the wrong positions, allowing the WH to not bypass but fill instead. But it appears , as you explained it, that you left a LP drain line open. If you need to see or understand the system better go to youtube and search 'rv winterizing'.
bobndot 11/04/19 12:27am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

Yep.....thought about that too, Bob! I also boondock more than hookup, so it's rather important to me. Not sure what a new unit would cost but will ask. Mainly, I want to make sure they pulled it apart versus just put the board in and fired it up once. I think a trained monkey could do that. :B Good luck , I hope it's a simple fix for you.
bobndot 11/03/19 10:16am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

With hourly shops rates at what they are today be careful as they pile on the hours to match the cost of a new unit. I understand the economics of it and hope you can easily resolve this, like a simple cleaning or replacing a switch. It comes to a point when we have to think about buying a new unit opposed to taking stabs at repairing something 14 yrs old for something else to malfunction on it tomorrow. That will depend on the dealers honesty and level of skill. Because I boondock in off grid places far from help in cold temps , I prefer to buy new things to lessen my chances for things to malfunction. I look at it as having 14 yrs of service out of it really isn't a bad run, especially the way things are made these days. I'm talking about the furnace replacement not the whole rv.
bobndot 11/03/19 08:50am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

I've tried it hooked to house power, batteries and generator....makes no difference. House batteries are at 12.9amp so shouldn't be an issue. The op said his batts are 12.9 volts not amps I assume and it makes no difference. Why would you think its a low battery ? I think the answer is in that link I provided. However, it might be easier to drive the 40 miles and go back to that dealer.
bobndot 11/01/19 06:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Furnace works; then doesn't; works again?

I think the board was a bad board, it happens often enough to think that. If the tech thought that was the problem in the first place and he changed it, then it worked when you tried it, then stopped. I would think the new board is a bad board. I bought a Dinosaur board for my last rv and was told they make a more reliable board. It might sound silly, but I carry a spare. It's so easy to plug in a new board and most of the time it solves the problems with furnaces. At least doing that tells me if it in fact is a bad board or not, quick and easy. The only other thing that comes to mind is the your new wall thermostat. I remember people having issues using the auto mode on digital thermostats where it caused malfunctions between the furnace and fan, igniter, and A/C. You would have to google that cause I don't remember the exact problems with that and I cant find my saved info on it. read Old-biscuit and there is a link for more info within this thread https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28593590/print/true.cfm
bobndot 11/01/19 03:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Sway bars for Four Winds Majestic 2007

Hellwig and Roadmaster both work well . I would install urethane bushings if you choose the Hellwigs, so add those to the cost and compare. Make sure both companies have a fit for your chassis and make sure you do not any aftermarket equipment that might interfere with the install. Example: I added a rear track bar and air bags to my rig and i'm not sure if a new set of bars would interfere with an install or not.
bobndot 10/31/19 01:19pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 28 Foot / Chevy Chassis, Looking to upgrade suspension...

Experiment by changing air pressure on the front tires. Just because the tire says 80 PSI doesn't mean you have to run them at max. Some people run at 65 or 70 PSI offering more rubber on the ground as well as a softer ride.
bobndot 10/31/19 08:40am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Costs of things

We rv because we travel with a dog and hate sleeping in beds that hundreds of other have slept in before us. We like having our own bathroom that's usually available 24/7 when we travel. Needless to say, we have not thought about how much it cost. When people ask us we ballpark our mpg, repairs, food, camp fees and other rv related expenses. When the bill comes, we simply pay it and don't think twice.
bobndot 10/28/19 11:31am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Minnie Winnie question

Yes I remember not only that post with the cracked floor but also Jayco forum, Forest River forums and this forum have posts regarding floors splitting when transitioning to seasonal colder climates. People that replaced it have cut the old flooring to the edges and not under walls to replace it. Some have installed a Pergo floating type floor. As long as the floor is not soft, I would agree that it's just separation or shrinkage and not structural.
bobndot 10/27/19 11:07am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Running generator on a hill

Seeing as the oil may be a "splash" system I'd want to be level. At least eyeball level. I really don't know the 100% answer but I would agree with being as close to level as possible, especially long term running. I guess its also possible to run out of gas sooner if the rv gas tank is off level.
bobndot 10/27/19 10:53am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Yes boys and girls, you REALLY need to carry a spare...

Desert Captain, thanks for taking the time to share your story and posting the pics. When we were class 'c' shopping last year, a spare tire as OEM equipment was a must. We too use CN road service and have been happy the 2x we had to use it. The way you handled the roadside safety was textbook professional. I'm glad you are both safe and that's the real bottom line. :B
bobndot 10/27/19 10:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2020 Class'C' E-450 Ford V10 lacks power?

Have the dealer check, air filter, fuel filter, cat converter. I would ask if it's possible for a sensor to be malfunctioning without actually showing a code.
bobndot 10/24/19 09:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

To be clear - the pin that I lost was at the receiver (closest to the camper)... I usually install my base plate pins the same way as describe above by way2roll. ok Tnx. That's what I thought it was , the hitch pin and I also install my Blue ox pins that same way as you do. Glad to hear everything turned out to be ok for you.
bobndot 10/21/19 03:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Really scary incident tonight - almost lost my tow!

Are we talking about the pins (2) at the car baseplate or the 'hitch pin' at the receiver ?
bobndot 10/21/19 01:56pm Class C Motorhomes
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