Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Terryallan' found 312 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Winterizing Travel Trailer

You would feel better using antifreeze. And be safer. Truth is. IF you are going to run antifreeze thru it. Blowing it out first is a waste of time. The antifreeze will displace any water in the system. that is what it does. Now next thing. IF you use the winterizing kit inside the RV. Please remember to let the antifreeze run out the city water connector. There is a button inside the hose connector that you can press with a screw driver. However, Remember to stand to one side, as there will be pressure on it. Ask me how I know.
Terryallan 09/30/20 07:26am General RVing Issues
RE: sway bar instructions

Me thinks that the mentioned issue/condition is strictly for the add-on friction sway bars and has nothing to do with all those popular and expensive hitches with anti-sway built in. ? My guess is that while the Equalizer resists slipping, it will eventually slip, likely well before the truck is to lose traction. It's basically the same reason you have to take off a friction sway bar but don't have to remove the Equalizer when backing into a spot, you'll get the classic pop and groan but the bar will slip on the plate. The real reason you are to remove the add on sway bar for backing, is because you can jack the trailer MORE when backing than going forward. That can cause the sway bar to overtravel, and either bottom out on the balls, or pull apart the other way. Really doesn't have anything to do with added force. But when it bottoms out. It can break the mounting balls off.
Terryallan 09/30/20 07:19am Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

From the Reese Sway bar instruction manual. So there is the instructions. Hoax? BS? you decide. Not according to Reese. Reese says remove it in the rain, or slippery conditions. 4. When towing during slippery conditions such as wet, icy, or snow-covered roads or on loose gravel, turn on/off handle (5) counterclockwise until all tension is removed from unit. Failure to do so could prevent tow vehicle and trailer from turning properly.
Terryallan 09/29/20 08:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

Then there are all those popular, expensive brands that can't be adjusted for slippery conditions. You are simply not to use them in slippery conditions. your TT should not sway with out one. They are only for emergency situations. Then all those folks with the popular, expensive brands need to get off the road at the first sign of inclement weather? Or do they need to remove all the weight distribution and then continue on? No not WDH. Just the swaybar. The honest truth is. Your travel Trailer should NOT sway in normal driving WITH OUT a sway bar. If it does. You have serious problems. I have towed with out the sway bar. I have no sway.
Terryallan 09/29/20 08:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

If this was the first time in 20 years, I would guess that you towed in the rain before. Was there something different in your set up this time? Did you always remove the bars in the rain before? Only thing I can think of is that I was making a 90 degree turn off the highway steeply down hill. And I can't remember doing that before. I guess everything just lined up to make it happen.
Terryallan 09/29/20 08:14pm Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

Then there are all those popular, expensive brands that can't be adjusted for slippery conditions. You are simply not to use them in slippery conditions. your TT should not sway with out one. They are only for emergency situations.
Terryallan 09/28/20 10:27am Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

Have any of you read as I have the sway bar instructions? Especially the part about NOT using the sway bar in the rain? HINT. It really means what it says. It CAN cause the TV to go straight in a turn. Want to know how I know???? Thursday as we hooked up to come home it was raining, and I thought about the instructions, but put it on any way. ( my TT doesn't sway with out the bar). So I put it on anyway. and had O problems until I went to turn into a driveway. Yes I slowed way down, But as I turned, the front tires started sliding. The truck did NOT want to turn. But it finally caught and I went into the driveway. Scared me some as we were still in the mountains and there was a pretty good drop beside the driveway. Anyway. moral of the story. There is just barley a chance the manufacturers know what they are talking about when they write the instructions. And it is required that your TT be setup correctly and not sway, even with out the sway bar. Glad you are OK and everything ended well. I bolded the most important part of your post. It is why a take all the safety police on this forum with a grain of salt who insist one MUST always use WD and anti sway devices in all conditions and all combinations.. Those items are nothing more than a bandaid slapped on top of a very bad TV/trailer combo (way to heavy or too long of a trailer) and or not properly distributed weight on the trailer (IE not enough tongue weight). WD and even friction anti sway devices were designed to help folks tow larger combinations than they would be able to with a lesser tow vehicle. Your rig SHOULD and MUST tow CORRECTLY in any and all conditions BEFORE you ever slap on those feel good bandaids. And YES, that means you need to select a trailer weight well below the max "ratings" of the TV.. It is why one should pay attention and use to the GVWR of the trailer instead of the supposed dry weights. YES, that means you may end up with a much shorter and smaller trailer with 3K of cargo weight that you will never need.. So be it, to be much SAFER to start with without the aid of slapped on bandaids is a much better way to tow. I didn't know the difference until the day I bought a much heavier 3/4 ton to replace a light weight heavy half.. Much better towing, feels confidant in all weather conditions and the truck is in command instead of the trailer.. And I do not need those devices to be able to tow for my combinations. Yes, my comments will raise the hackles of good intentioned towing/weight police and I don't care, it really needs to be said. I am a firm believer in a WDH. As it returns lost weight, and steering control to the steering axle.. However I also know that the WDH, and trailer should be setup to the point there is no sway in normal driving. And that is where mine is set. I have 0 sway. I use the sway control for those emergency manuvering situations where I might have to dodge something. Like a deer, or accident. I have forgotten to install it a time or two, and there is virtually no difference in normal towing. It is only for emergencies. The only mistake I made , was using it in the rain. And as I say. This is the first time in 20 years it has caused this problem.
Terryallan 09/28/20 10:26am Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

I assume this is a trailer friction anti-sway attachment. Yes by all means don't have it so tight in the rain, especially at low speeds. Truth is. they only have 2 settings, on, and off. The lever is the on off switch. All the way tight is on.. any thing less is off. According to the instructions.
Terryallan 09/28/20 10:19am Travel Trailers
RE: sway bar instructions

First time for me. in 20 years.
Terryallan 09/28/20 10:17am Travel Trailers
sway bar instructions

Have any of you read as I have the sway bar instructions? Especially the part about NOT using the sway bar in the rain? HINT. It really means what it says. It CAN cause the TV to go straight in a turn. Want to know how I know???? Thursday as we hooked up to come home it was raining, and I thought about the instructions, but put it on any way. ( my TT doesn't sway with out the bar). So I put it on anyway. and had O problems until I went to turn into a driveway. Yes I slowed way down, But as I turned, the front tires started sliding. The truck did NOT want to turn. But it finally caught and I went into the driveway. Scared me some as we were still in the mountains and there was a pretty good drop beside the driveway. Anyway. moral of the story. There is just barley a chance the manufacturers know what they are talking about when they write the instructions. And it is required that your TT be setup correctly and not sway, even with out the sway bar.
Terryallan 09/26/20 08:51am Travel Trailers
RE: Near tragic event!!

How did you not notice there wasn't a tire when you set the chocks on???????..
Terryallan 09/26/20 08:40am Fifth-Wheels
RE: AGE old AC question.

rexlion, notice that Terry succeeded in running the a/c at ohm. Resistance is futile. And Terry, I am glad that worked out for you. The first time I tried running the trailer a/c at home, the circuit breaker in the house blew. I upgraded the circuit. Then I tried again and the extension cord got very hot. I upgraded from an ordinary extension cord to a heavy duty cord. That worked just fine. Moral of the story: my guess is that you know more about electricity than I do. But to anyone reading this who is not an expert, it is a good idea to check that your home circuit is up to the task and that you have a sufficiently beefy extension cord. Only problem I have ever had was with a CHEAP walmart adapter. It got pretty hot. But the more beefy ones didn't. as for the drop cord. It once was 100'. but the Dog ate part of it. It is pretty beefy as well. and also I can't remember what gauge it is as it is 30+ years old as well. But while it was bought to run the popup AC, and lights. It mostly runs the table saw, Band saw, lights and drill press in my little workshop.. However when it is hooked to the TT. That is all it runs. Except for the air compressor when I am airing the tires on the TV, and TT.
Terryallan 09/26/20 08:33am Travel Trailers
RE: AGE old AC question.

Twenty years of RVing. That’s amazing. Actually 40 years of camping.20 years with popups, 20 years with a TT.
Terryallan 09/26/20 08:25am Travel Trailers
RE: AGE old AC question.

Will my house current run my AC? Answered again for me just a few minutes ago. Because you see when you forget to turn the AC off at the CG, and then a couple weeks later you need to cool the fridge. So you plug into the house. the AC instantly starts. It didn't hesitate, it didn't struggle. Just BAM and it was running full speed. So yeah. the house current will run the AC. I already knew that. BTW. I've done it for 20 years on 3 different campers. So you are the guy that is destroying all those campground outlets? I would guess not. I flip the breakers before I unplug, and before I plug in. Plus the AC wasn't running when we broke camp. So nope
Terryallan 09/26/20 08:23am Travel Trailers
AGE old AC question.

Will my house current run my AC? Answered again for me just a few minutes ago. Because you see when you forget to turn the AC off at the CG, and then a couple weeks later you need to cool the fridge. So you plug into the house. the AC instantly starts. It didn't hesitate, it didn't struggle. Just BAM and it was running full speed. So yeah. the house current will run the AC. I already knew that. BTW. I've done it for 20 years on 3 different campers.
Terryallan 09/18/20 01:51pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tongue height

We just got a new tow rig. I’m setting the hitch highthand I’m not sure we’re it should be. Right now I have the truck level, the truck tongue is level, and the back bumper is level. Is this good or do I need to drop the tongue an inch or 2? Usually you want to back the truck up to the trailer, Don't hook up. But have the trailer level. Set the ball at least ONE inch higher than the trailer coupler. (Make sure the trailer is level). Then hook up, and adjust the weight carrying bar to the point that the front of the truck comes back down to with in 1/2 inch of the height it was before you hooked up. IF you get the front right. The back usually takes care of itself. Just make sure the back of the truck is NO HIGHER than it was unhooked.. BTW. the trailer needs to be level after you hook up as well. Nose up, or nose down can cause a poor towing experience, AND cause the axles / tires to carry more weight than the other, and could cause tire failure.
Terryallan 09/15/20 05:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: TT tire pressure - sticker or tire PSI?

OK so I'm either going to do what vahalla suggests (E to spare and get a D, less $$) or go all E like time2roll suggests (put a good D on the spare, more $$$). Seems a shame to get rid of tires with no wear on them, maybe 10,000 total miles, but then I'm gonna have to get rid of them in 2 years anyway. Have to call my tire dealer and see what is what. Thanks for the input. So I think I'll have a beer. Get rid of them. Or your going to spend more time on the side of the road. And I say that from experiance. Tires ROT sitting still. Tires lubricate themselves when the flex while rolling. No rolling no lube. so they dry out. Does NOT matter how many miles they have on them, as you already found out. Again before you get high PSI tires. Be sure your rims can take it. I would get them off before your next trip. Or keep an eye out for a place to pull over. Especially if you had to go very far on the single tire after one blew. It more than likely damaged it further. And I can't stress this enough. Get good tires. Either Maxxis or Endurance.
Terryallan 09/15/20 04:57pm Travel Trailers
RE: TT tire pressure - sticker or tire PSI?

We lets think about your rims as well? Steel, or aluminum? What is the tire pressure they are rated for. As you mentioned the original spare was a C with a max PSI of 50LB. Can your rims handle 80 PSI? I would just get 4 new Ds and be done with it, and they would be good Ds as well. Either MAXXIS, or Endurance.. not cheap china tires. and sir them to the sidewall max
Terryallan 09/15/20 10:09am Travel Trailers
RE: TT tire pressure - sticker or tire PSI?

Didn't blow out on driveway, but after 30 mile trip. Tire date is 0817, so 3 years old, which makes sense since this is a 2018 TT. The sticker says D tire. Good Sam guy installed an E. I figured E was better than D, but at this point I didn't have any choice: he was here, he had a tire that fit, I had no spare. Dumb me. The spare that came with the trailer was an old C rated tire, which I intended to replace the day I found out, but due to covid insanity, family insanity, and my own insanity, forgot to take care of it. I'm thinking I should put all my D tires to 65 per sticker and on tire sidewall, like I have done for the previous 7000 miles. And pump the E tire up to 70 and hope for the best. Put the E on the spare tire rim and get a new D if the others are only 3yrs old and appear to be in good condition otherwise...but keep a close eye on the others and plan in about 2-4yrs replacing the other 3 regardless of miles. When you did the 30mile trip, did you check the pressure before departure? Was there any sign of a nail or other road damage causing the failure? 3 years is the life of a trailer tire that sits alot. I have blown 3 trailer tires perfectly aired up. All 3 were at the beginning of their 3rd year. I will never again run a triler tire into it's 5th year.
Terryallan 09/15/20 10:05am Travel Trailers
RE: 5.3 vs 6.2

you would be gaining 55 CI. Would be much stronger up, and down the mountain. Plus with the newer technology. More power again.
Terryallan 09/15/20 09:58am Tow Vehicles
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.