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RE: hwy 140 from Merced to Yosemite...any advice?
In tow/haul mode, the engine downshifts and slows you down with minimal braking. I suppose if you didn't have tow/haul mode on your rig you could manually downshift. I have yet to find a downhill I had a problem with.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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02/22/23 07:23pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: hwy 140 from Merced to Yosemite...any advice?
I actually went back with my son and his girlfriend and got back yesterday (left because we knew the storm was coming).
While we were there, there was a pretty big rock slide that closed all outbound traffic for about 6 hours (people just stuck in their cars). Thankfully, we were camping there that night and weren't affected.
Yesterday, they actually closed the campground (and kicked everyone out) because it would be too dangerous with the storm.
While we were there (20th) it was beautiful and we got to visit all the usual places. What a great place!
-Chris
https://i.imgur.com/vSh9zfQl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rhlzowzl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6mvhQn7l.jpg
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SJ-Chris
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02/22/23 12:05pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: hwy 140 from Merced to Yosemite...any advice?
Just got back from my trip to Yosemite via hwy 140. The roads were dry and it wasn't as bad as I remember. The last 20 miles before getting to the park entrance is a bit narrower and mostly along the Merced river. But it wasn't particularly difficult. Got to see some nice things in Yosemite without the crowds...
Not as much snow as I thought there would be...
https://i.imgur.com/FmAXqwal.jpg
But I did get to see this which is what I was really hoping to see...
https://i.imgur.com/SB8V9Mpl.jpg
Happy camping!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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02/18/23 12:51am |
Roads and Routes
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RE: hwy 140 from Merced to Yosemite...any advice?
I'm pretty familiar with hwy120...driven it many times. Pretty sure it is closed in the winter time. I've also driven the Old Priest Grade and the New Priest Grade ~50 times. RVs only use New Priest Grade. Neither bother me.
I'll be coming hwy140 direction. Sounds like it is the lowest elevation path into the valley, so that's good.
Anyone know how treacherous hwy 140 is, and if a little snow would make it much of an issue? White knuckles? Or just a pretty normal road?
Thanks!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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02/12/23 07:22pm |
Roads and Routes
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hwy 140 from Merced to Yosemite...any advice?
I've got a few nights booked in Yosemite coming up. Looks like about 1" of snow the afternoon before I'm driving up, and then the temps being below freezing while I'm driving up the next morning (doesn't give the snow time to melt, and I'm concerned a bit about ice too).
I've driven this road (hwy140) once before, but it was years ago and I just remember it's through a pretty tight canyon. Cliff face on one side, drop off into the Merced river on the other side of the road.
I'm mostly worried about the drive to Yosemite. While I'm there, it isn't supposed to rain or snow before I leave and get home. I will be driving in my 23' Class C RV. I will have 1 set of chains for the outer dually if needed.
Anyone have some experience on this road (especially during the winter/snow)? Any advice?
Thanks!
Chris
PS: I'm wanting to see THIS with a blanket of snow...
https://i.imgur.com/6cYSiZol.jpg
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SJ-Chris
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02/12/23 01:42pm |
Roads and Routes
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RE: Can you name that sound (squeaking)?
I had a similar squeak on a previous RV. It droves us crazy and like yours it would start when driving at a slow speed and eventualy stop after things got warmed up. I swore it had to be in the suspension/drive works of the rig but it was not. After sitting overnight or even when we were stopped at a restaurant if it was cool outside, the tires develop a flat spot where it meets the ground. As you start driving it starts a bit of shaking in the motorhome. As the tire warms a bit from driving it warms and the flexing of the tire limbers up the tire and the flat spot goes away and so does the minor tremors traveling through the coach. One morning we headed out on another trip and that damned squeak started up. For some reason a thought occurred to me. We were still near home and on a slow speed road,right in the "squeak zone". I ask my wife to go to the entry door and open it up. Upon opening the door the squeak stopped instantly. It turned out the slight tremor caused by the stiff tire flat spots was causing the
door to move ever so slightly in its' opening and the aluminum of the door was rubbing against the aluminum of the door frame, causing the squeak. End of story and end of squeak.
Thanks for the feedback. Wow...that would be a very hard squeak (the one you figured out)! It's the on again, off again issues that are sometimes very hard to pinpoint (...especially for us weekend mechanics). For now, my squeak has suddenly stopped. Could have something to do with the wet weather. I'll take it out again for a drive next week and see if it squeaks or not. I'll post an update if I discover anything new.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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02/05/23 03:02pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Can you name that sound (squeaking)?
Interesting update.....OP here....
Well, it's been raining so much here in California that I haven't bothered to investigate this squeak any further yet. I was planning on checking the brakes to continue looking for the issue. It has been sitting now for about 2 months. I decided today I would take it out for a drive just to make sure it is still squeaking. I was surprised to discover that there was no longer any squeaking! I was able to get up to 40-45mph without any squeak. Stopped. Started. Accelerated. Coasted. Couldn't hear any squeak...it was gone.
I guess I will have to wait for a few more days and then try it again. Hasn't rained in about 5 days. I know problems don't usually cure themselves, so I'll be planning/expecting it to show up again sometime...
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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01/24/23 10:47pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: cheap solar panels
If anyone tries it (with caution) please let us know. Seems like a scam to me.
An alternative for getting "cheap solar panels" is to buy quality USED solar panels. Just test them before you buy (voltage and current) and you should be good to go. On my RVs, I installed multiple 250w used panels that I got for $35 each and they are producing great. No moving parts on solar panels, so they should last for years and years. If you worry about max efficiency issues with these used panels, buy one extra and put it up and you'll have more solar than you originally intended (...assuming you have the space).
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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01/07/23 05:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?
This is a somewhat off the wall request but ...
Does anyone know of an extending lift/hoist that would fit in the rear storage compartment of a 28a? I need to lift a 75lb folding power chair in and out of the RV and I'm reaching the age where a dead lift of that size (especially given the less than optimal shape) is getting to be problematic.
I was envisioning something like an extending arm with a hoist so that I could pull it out, hook up the chair, lift it and push it into the storage bay and lower it onto the floor.
Thanks
Derek
Would something like this be helpful?
https://discovermymobility.com/store/scooter-lifts/planet/vulcan/index.html
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/29/22 08:54pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: 12 volt fridges and boondocking?
12v refrigerators will likely use 30-60AH/day.
Your propane refrigerator does use some 12v power, but let's assume it is small enough compared to the amount the 12v refrigerator uses and you can ignore it.
Your two 100AH lithium batteries gives you probably 20-30 extra useable AHs compared to your two 6V batteries.
The 600w of solar gives you 120w more than you have now. In a sunny environment that will give you 25-35AH/day more than you had.
From the above, it seems like it is about a wash and if you were okay before with your battery life/use you will probably be ok with this new rig.
If the new rig has a generator, then you've always got that as a backup. My suggestion would be to try it out and see if you are satisfied. If needed, you can always add one more 100AH lithium down the road and another solar panel or two.
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/23/22 12:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: House Batteries not being charged by engine.
I suspect (and after re-reading I think you also mentioned) that the cylindrical item in the lower left is your solenoid for charging your house batteries while driving. Those do go bad pretty regularly (I've changed a few). Good news is they are inexpensive and that looks like a very easy location to swap it out for a new one.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/18/22 01:21pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: House Batteries not being charged by engine.
Can you crawl underneath and trace any red battery cable running back towards the chassis?
With everything off (no generator or shore power), measure the voltage on your chassis. Then measure your voltage on your house batteries. They (in your case) should be different. Then measure the voltage on some of those wires to the left of your house batteries. and see which ones match your house battery voltage and which match your chassis voltage. This will tell you if you have a chassis fed battery cable back in your house battery location (...a clue at least).
You can also do these measurements/tests with the engine on. Your chassis battery will likely be somewhere between 13.5-14.3v. Then you can probe those battery cable wires near your house batteries and see if you find a matching voltage. At least this way, you will know if you have your chassis 12v cable in the area near your coach batteries. Then you can probably identify the solenoid that is supposed to charge your house batteries while driving.
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/18/22 01:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control
I have received and bench tested the thermostat I purchased for this mod so that I know how it works. Haven't played with the bonus app yet, but that should be fun.
https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-99%C2%B0C-999%C2%B0C-One-Channel-Thermocouple/dp/B09TT7VWCK
Pretty straightforward once I figured things out. This thermostat operates a relay. I will ultimately run the 12v power going to the refrigerator control board from the "on/off" button control inside the RV through the relay. This should cover either AC or propane operation (they both require the 12v supply to the refrigerator control board). That same 12v line will supply power to this thermostat device, so it will only be on when the refrigerator is on (no power draw while in storage).
I can set a high "turn off" temperature and will likely have that at 200*C (392*F) (assuming that "normal/level" steady boiler temperature is ~180*C (356*F)...I will test this once it is installed). My understanding is the primary goal of this, or similar, device is to simply keep the internal water in the cooling unit from boiling (220-225*C...428*F-437*F...and higher). (side note: If you are wondering WHY the water boiling point is so high inside the cooling unit it is because the system is under a lot of pressure during operation.) If the boiler hits 200*C (perhaps by being out of level), the 12v power to the refrigerator will be killed (which will be sort of equivalent to turning the refrigerator off at the main "on/off" button) until the temperature drops down to some set point and then it will turn back on automatically (nice...this is what we want). I'm not sure what temp I should set this drop down temperature to. Any thoughts?
If it turns off at 200*C, do I want it turning back on once it drops down to 180*C? 150*C? 70*C? Unless someone explains otherwise, I think I'll have it turn back on once the boiler cools down to 170*C (338*F). That would be a 30*C cooling off period (from 200*C) which I'm guessing would take 10-20 minutes (??? I'll try to do a test to find out once I install it). Then the refrigerator would turn on again and try again. If the conditions were still present that was causing it to start overheating in the first place (ie. being too far out of level), then the boiler temperature would slowly rise up to 200*C and then bounce back and forth between 200*C and 170*C. Any harm in this??
Or would it be better to have the boiler temperature bounce between 200*C and 180*C such that refrigerator interior cooling can hopefully still be taking place and the interior of the refrigerator can get to its desired temps and then the regular refrigerator controls would shut down the refrigerator until it needs to cycle on again naturally?
I'm guessing it probably doesn't matter too much if the "turn back on" temperature is 180*C, 170*C, 150*C, etc. The main purpose/function is to simply limit the overheating such that it never gets above 220*C (428*F). I'm still pretty stunned to know that Norcold and Dometic find it okay to let the boiler temp get all the way up to 750-800*F before their kill fuse blows (at which time, correct me if I am wrong, the fuse will need to be physically replaced before your refrigerator will work again). With my ~$25 mod it will cut the power if it gets just 36*F above normal operating temps and then turn itself back on once the boiler temp gets back down to normal.
Above, otrfun posted their refrigerator boiler temp data from a 2 year period where they made no efforts to keep their fridge level during operation. It rose above their normal boiler temp range a max of 7-12*C (21*F max) so it seems like in general these boilers hold a pretty constant max temperature. (Thanks for the data otrfun!)
I have some family in town for Christmas so the install will likely have to wait until early January.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/17/22 03:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: absorption refrigerator out of level, boiler temp control
I have received and bench tested the thermostat I purchased for this mod so that I know how it works. Haven't played with the bonus app yet, but that should be fun.
https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-Controller-99%C2%B0C-999%C2%B0C-One-Channel-Thermocouple/dp/B09TT7VWCK
Pretty straightforward once I figured things out. This thermostat operates a relay. I will ultimately run the 12v power going to the refrigerator control board from the "on/off" button control inside the RV through the relay. This should cover either AC or propane operation (they both require the 12v supply to the refrigerator control board). That same 12v line will supply power to this thermostat device, so it will only be on when the refrigerator is on (no power draw while in storage).
I can set a high "turn off" temperature and will likely have that at 200*C (392*F) (assuming that "normal/level" steady boiler temperature is ~180*C (356*F)...I will test this once it is installed). My understanding is the primary goal of this, or similar, device is to simply keep the internal water in the cooling unit from boiling (220-225*C...428*F-437*F...and higher). (side note: If you are wondering WHY the water boiling point is so high inside the cooling unit it is because the system is under a lot of pressure during operation.) If the boiler hits 200*C (perhaps by being out of level), the 12v power to the refrigerator will be killed (which will be sort of equivalent to turning the refrigerator off at the main "on/off" button) until the temperature drops down to some set point and then it will turn back on automatically (nice...this is what we want). I'm not sure what temp I should set this drop down temperature to. Any thoughts?
If it turns off at 200*C, do I want it turning back on once it drops down to 180*C? 150*C? 70*C? Unless someone explains otherwise, I think I'll have it turn back on once the boiler cools down to 170*C (338*F). That would be a 30*C cooling off period (from 200*C) which I'm guessing would take 10-20 minutes (??? I'll try to do a test to find out once I install it). Then the refrigerator would turn on again and try again. If the conditions were still present that was causing it to start overheating in the first place (ie. being too far out of level), then the boiler temperature would slowly rise up to 200*C and then bounce back and forth between 200*C and 170*C. Any harm in this??
Or would it be better to have the boiler temperature bounce between 200*C and 180*C such that refrigerator interior cooling can hopefully still be taking place and the interior of the refrigerator can get to its desired temps and then the regular refrigerator controls would shut down the refrigerator until it needs to cycle on again naturally?
I'm guessing it probably doesn't matter too much if the "turn back on" temperature is 180*C, 170*C, 150*C, etc. The main purpose/function is to simply limit the overheating such that it never gets above 220*C (428*F). I'm still pretty stunned to know that Norcold and Dometic find it okay to let the boiler temp get all the way up to 750-800*F before their kill fuse blows (at which time, correct me if I am wrong, the fuse will need to be physically replaced before your refrigerator will work again). With my ~$25 mod it will cut the power if it gets just 36*F above normal operating temps and then turn itself back on once the boiler temp gets back down to normal.
I have some family in town for Christmas so the install will likely have to wait until early January.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/17/22 03:23pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suggestions for using "wasted" solar power?
Grit dog,
Ah but that depends on your point of view. If his rv storage was near home, he could, if nothing else, reduce his bill at not much cost. Or he could do net metering with the excess power.
If my RVs were stored at my home I would likely try to figure out how to tap into that excess solar. But my RVs are stored in a yard 1/2 mile away.
Currently my solar keeps my coach batteries and chassis battery topped off (easy as there is very little draw), and powers an alarm system on my RV (motion sensor inside RV, motion sensor pointing at my cable wrapped catalytic converter, and motion sensor in the large rear storage compartment). But all of that can probably be powered by ~30-50w of solar, and my RVs have 500w of solar. Hence this post...looking for anything useful to use the rest of that potential solar power while in storage.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/16/22 06:31pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Stops Catalytic Converter thefts! (inexpensive method)
Sorry if this was covered, but didn't read every page. Cable cutters pictured look like they are for copper or aluminum electrical cable. Steel will make them forever useless. Don't bolt cutters work on stranded cable?
Very 1st post covers this... The cutters in the picture could not cut the cable. Needed much larger cutters specific for cables. That is what I used to cut the cables to length/etc. Bolt cutter could probably also do it.
Large cutters could also be used by a thief if they are trying to steal my now-protected CC. But instead of just 2 quick cordless sawsall cuts (which they are used to), they will spend a lot more time underneath with their sawsall and cable cutters (which they are unlikely to have) trying to cut the 6-7 places where the cable is connected to the frame of the RV (some up high in very hard to reach places). And if that wasn't good enough, there's also a motion sensor alarm that will be triggered blasting at 110dB the whole time.
Overall, a relatively inexpensive mod to reduce the chance that my CC will get stolen again (covered by insurance, but causing huge inconvenience and weeks/months out of commission). Can't stop a dedicated thief, but I like my chances.
Stay safe!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/09/22 08:06pm |
Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
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RE: Need battery for house and gen starting?
This one is less expensive AND better designed to be a coach/house battery:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Lead-Acid-Marine-RV-Deep-Cycle-Battery-Group-Size-29DC-12V-845-MCA/20531543?athbdg=L1600
Good luck!
Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/08/22 09:52pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Suggestions for using "wasted" solar power?
This is an expensive idea but might fit your uses. Buy a few so called solar batteries and swap them out to be used other places on a regular bases. I have 4kw of those batteries for use during short power outages at home. I just charge them from the wall but if I had a motor home with a bunch of solar sitting in the back yard I would store them there and swap them into the shop to use the power. My process now for longer power outages is to charge them with a generator so I don't have the generator running all the time. I have thought abut picking up some solar panels to recharge them but they are still on the maybe list.
Thanks for the suggestion. Thankfully, I do not have power outages at my home except on very rare occasions so I don't really have the need for backup batteries for that. In the event that my power was out for any annoying length of time, I can always bring my RV home and run the generator and extension cord to the house to power a few items.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/07/22 07:20pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suggestions for using "wasted" solar power?
I love the *idea* of ultrasonic pest repellents. As I have been thinking about how to use this wasted power, this might be on the top of my list (along with a fan). I could put two in each RV, they are inexpensive, and they draw very little power. But...Do they work???
Many many internet google reviews and youtube videos seem to indicate that such devices do not work (or help very little). But if I look to buy online, like here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BFPM5BF7 I see 13,865 reviews/ratings and 93% of them (...almost 13,000 people) gave it 4 or 5 stars out of 5. Are there that many fake review bots on amazon to boost so many 4-5 star reviews?
I guess the bottom line might be...they are cheap enough and draw such little power so why not?
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/07/22 02:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Suggestions for using "wasted" solar power?
Hi Chris,
The circulating fan would equalize temperatures inside the RV. I think that might be of use.
I'm sure you meant a dehumidifier not a humidifier. Unfortunately dehumidifiers that actually work generally draw 1200 to 1500 watts. More than you have "spare".
The ultrasonic pest units draw milliamps. Less than you have "spare". It may also be the reason they are not effective.
Yes, I meant dehumidifier.
-Chris
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SJ-Chris
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12/06/22 11:09pm |
Tech Issues
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