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 > Your search for posts made by 'RLS7201' found 197 matches.

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RE: 1995 Bounder 36' increasing towing cap 3500 to 5,000 lbs

Your Bounder has frame extensions, installed by Fleetwood. The extensions are of lesser material and are usually welded pooply. Do NOT exceed Fleetwood's towing limitations without beefing up the frame extensions and welds. The transmissions in those old P32 MHs are problematic and will not tolerate extra loads very well. All your storage bays, with water in them, are heated by the front furnace. Problem being, Fleetwood did a poor job on the return air. You are probably good to the lower 20s. If you are going to be in a campground in the cold, add a 100 watt light bulb to the two bays with the tanks in them. I modified the return airs on my 33 ft bounder and have survive -7°F. Richard
RLS7201 09/08/20 08:26pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Good Bye Class A forum!

And one of the reasons for going for this particular motorhome over something on the Sprinter Chassis, is I have a 7.6 liter ford V-8. Are you sure it's a 7.6 liter Ford V-8 :@\ Yes, I’m sure. OH Boy! Ford is making another new V8 engine for us to thrash about. 7.6 liter or 463.78 cu in. Wonder if it's diesel of gas? Could it be a replacement for the 6.7 diesel? Richard
RLS7201 09/03/20 05:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

Richard, it looks like you were moving the spring around considerably on that thing. Is that a Hayden 2799? From what I understand, 1/8" gives you approximately 10 degrees difference in engagement temperature. Did you find you had it move it more to get a change? It's going to be 84 degrees here tomorrow, so I may go wring its neck a bit and see how it does. To answer your radiator question, I have an all aluminum replacement from superior cooling, as well as a complete banks system. It seems to do the job very well. The temp gauge stays between the O and M on the ford NORMAL gauge (190-210 according to my IR gun) which is well within acceptable temperature range for the trusty 460. If I am out of overdrive in 3rd gear going down the highway at 65-70 the temp will goto A, WITH the dash A/C on. I am sure if i'm climbing with a load on it will go beyond that, which is why I want to be sure my fan is working properly. Where exactly did/does your factory fan clutch kick on if I may ask, on your \__NORMAL___/ gauge? I may have no problem whatsoever, but I would like to be 100% confident that I do not before I venture out on long runs. Once up to temperature my gauge never moves off the "O" unless the the engine overheats. The clutch kicks in and out and the gauge don't move. Throughout the years of being on various RV forums, I typically see 460 issues such as yours, with replacement radiators. Do what you must. Richard
RLS7201 09/02/20 05:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: LCI power steps won't shut off

In your step motor gear assembly is 3 plastic shear pins. Also available from Oreilly Auto. When they fail and slip, the controller doesn't see enough current rise to shut off the motor. Easy fix. Richard
RLS7201 09/02/20 01:36pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Belts on 1994 Ford V10 engine on Fleetwood Southwind

Your 460 has 2 flat belts. Rear belt goes from crankshaft to Power steering pump, to AC compressor, under tensioner, to water pump and back to crankshaft. Front belt goes from crankshaft to water pump, to alternator, to smog pump and back to crankshaft. Your squeal is most likely from the front belt. It is tensioned by adjusting the alternator. While on the subject of F53 460s Your 2 radiator hoses only fit a 460 MH and Motorcraft is the only supplier/manufacture. While some parts books show other brand names, they won't fit. Carry spares. Lower hose....MOTORCRAFT KM4969 Upper hose....Motorcraft KM4941 Richard
RLS7201 09/01/20 09:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

Thanks everyone for all the info. I still need to check and probably change the transmission fluid. Last I checked it will still clear and smelled correct but i'm sure it's due for a change. RLS7201, your name has come up a bunch of times in the forum posts i've skimmed on this topic. I came across a post you did about making your fan clutch adjustable, but it's older and the pictures are gone. I'd like to see that if you still have the pictures? I'm thinking I can tweak mine to get it where I want it. Here is the pic. Cut slots in the two aluminum posts. Epoxy a piece of 1 1/2" EMT in the slots cut slots for the spring. You won't like it. No mater how you adjust it, it will come on too soon or too late. Did you check your radiator to see how many fins per inch it has? As seen in the pic, adjust spring end CC to engage sooner. "border=0" For Full-Size Image.]Modified fan clutch Richard
RLS7201 08/30/20 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

Now that I have replaced the plugged radiator it will run pretty cool between 190-210. The only time I can get it higher than that is if I'm in 3rd gear climbing an incline or out of overdrive going down the highway at 65-70. I have an electric fan mounted on the front of my condenser which helps slightly. It pretty much just keeps A/C temps down. Richard, thanks for the info. The Murray 2799 is a reboxed Hayden 2799, which I have already tried. It ran nearly constantly and the thermostat was in a tug of war with it trying to keep the engine temp up. I'm assuming yours does not operate this way? Also, before your OEM one failed, when did it kick on and off, at what temp scale, and how did it behave when it did fail? My temp gauge is not calibrated in numbers. It just says normal across the top of the gauge. The needle starts at the far left when cold and advances to the "O" when it reaches normal operating temperature (197°). If all is working correctly the fan cuts in and out and the gauge needle never moves. When my OEM clutch failed, it just quit engaging. I pulled into a rest stop, unhooked the car and found a parts house (Oreilly). Change the clutch in the rest stop. I have the original radiator core with replacement brass end tanks. The OEM radiator core has 20 fins per inch. Most replacement radiators only have 15 fins per inch and will not radiate enough concentrated heat to operate the fan clutch properly. When I had the 15 fins per inch replacement radiator in my MH the temp gauge would rise to what I considered to be about 230-240 before the fan clutch would kick in. With the OEM core the gauge doesn't move and the clutch kicks in and out as it should. I can run up the side of the Rocky Mountains in the middle of summer, moving 20,500 lbs with my 460/528 stroker engine and not have any heat problem. Ford got it right.
RLS7201 08/29/20 07:42pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Cable Corrosion

If your charge algorithm is correct and the batteries are not overfilled you will not have corrosion problems. My 50+ years under the hood of cars disagrees with you. Ah, but we are talking RVs not cars. If you read my post carefully, you'll see that I said a proper charging algorithm. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/20 07:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Installed supersteer springs but...

Those front coil springs are held in place by many pounds of compression force. They're not going to fall out. If the installing mechanic didn't index the springs in their seats correctly, they may make some noise under the conditions you indicated. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/20 01:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

When my 95 F53 460 fan clutch failed, I replaced it with This clutch from Oreilly Auto. Price is right and it has worked correctly for the last 40,000 miles. I hear my fan clutch engage and disengage all the time and my temp gauge doesn't move unless the engine overheats. To change the clutch, work through the dog house. Do not remove the belts or fan shroud. Remove the two hoses going to the throttle body, for room to work. Loosen the 4 bolt holding the fan to the clutch but don't remove them. Remove the 4 bolts holding the clutch to the water pump. Slide the whole assembly into the fan shroud, carefully. Remove the 4 bolts you previously loosened. Remove the clutch. Find a 1" stud and insert it in one of the water pump bolt holes. This will help you align the clutch holes to the water pump holes. Put it back together. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/20 12:58pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F 53 alignment & steer safe

Ford built the truck frame and suspension why should any place change specs? First off the F53 is NOT a truck frame. It is built for motor home application. The equivalent frame for trucks is a F59. There are various sources for the F53 front end specifications, but the latest specs seems to be toe-in of 0.06 deg toe in, plus/minus 0.25 degree. Plus or minus 0.25 degrees would allow for some toe-out or too much toe-in. Thus the Family of F53 Ford owners have found that a strong toe-in setting (0.14 degrees or 5/32") is the best for handling and tire wear. Now you know. Richard
RLS7201 08/29/20 12:33pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Battery Cable Corrosion

If your charge algorithm is correct and the batteries are not overfilled you will not have corrosion problems. Could it be that your auto filler has failed and overfilled a cell or two? Richard
RLS7201 08/29/20 12:24pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Toilet replacement 1995 Bounder 35, not finding a fit

I had the exact same issue with my 95 32H Bounder. The riser serves no other purpose other than to elevate the commode. The riser is OEM. All of the black tank is under the floor. I removed the commode, removed the nasty carpeting on the riser, removed the flange, took off the wood cover and shortened the supports. The 3" ABS plumbing will slide out of the rubber bushing in the black tank. Shorten or replace the ABS as necessary. Adjust length of the freshwater supply. Reassemble and replace the old carpet with vinyl. Add trim as necessary. I suggest you adjust the new commode height just high enough to allow your feet to be flat on the floor or measure the commode in your sticks and bricks. I would be glad to talk your through the process, if you like. Richard
RLS7201 08/27/20 07:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Planning solar system for 1995 Fleetwood Southwind

Your coach was originally manufactured with 2 6 volt house batteries. Change back to the OEM 6 volt batteries for better performance and longer life. I have 500 watts of solar and a 30 amp MPPT charge controller on our 95 Bounder and it serves most of our needs while snow birding off grid. Richard
RLS7201 08/07/20 09:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Television - 12 volt or 120?

A lot of 12 volt TVs are junk and cost more than a comparable 120 volt name brand version. Which 12 volt TVs are junk? Can you give us some examples of failures and which components failed? I'm sure you've had some personal experiences with said failures. Please enlighten us. Richard
RLS7201 08/05/20 08:56pm Tech Issues
RE: The Meat Locker

Found second sensor near light over computer desk. have to shield it or move it. so problem solved Maybe convert light to LED? Richard
RLS7201 08/04/20 03:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Television - 12 volt or 120?

I suggest the 12 volt TV. If you want to watch TV, you just grab the remote and turn on the TV. Don't have to get up and turn on the inverter. And then forget to turn the inverter off when done. If you use an inverter, it's just another do-dad to go bad. I function on the "KISS" principle. "Keep It Simple Stupid". Richard
RLS7201 08/04/20 03:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

OH GEESH! fulltimin, I spent 2 minutes of my life reading a non RVing post and I'm not offended. There must be sumting wrong wit me. OH WAIT! I know what my problem is, I TOAD a 2003 PT Cruiser, with woody kit, for 10 years. Richard
RLS7201 07/28/20 05:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Following your posts is really starting to get interesting. I love it when folks like you think outside the box. Richard
RLS7201 07/24/20 10:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: I don't think it will start

Probably a ground problem. Check all ground connections. Richard
RLS7201 07/24/20 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
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