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 > Your search for posts made by 'Old Islander' found 19 matches.

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RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

The new ceiling looks great, BTW... :C
Old Islander 11/17/19 12:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild? Looks good but I think their is some under-utilized space at the rear. width=600 Could you use that space for the commode, with access from the commode to the shower and into shelves in the storage in the corner? This would give you more counter space in the galley with storage under? Maybe refer moves across the cabin, next to the shower? Several different ways you could go with it, employing that space at the back. Just thinking out loud... ;) width=500
Old Islander 11/17/19 12:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace blowing cold air only

I had a similar problem with the forced air furnace in our truck camper ('06 Okanagan). The fan would run and the flame would come on occasionally but not for long. After a good deal of investigation and detective work, we narrowed it down to the limit switch. This switch is another fail-safe like the sail switch, but it monitors the furnace internal temperature. If it thinks it's too hot in there, it prevents the flame from firing. A local RV repair shop quoted $450 to fix it, including re & re the furnace, disassembly, replacing the limit switch (and the sail switch too, being as how they already had it apart), and shop supplies. I decided I could almost buy a new furnace for that, so decided to have a go at fixing it myself. Making a short story long, managed find both the limit switch and sail switch through the panel on the side of the camper. Had to removed much of the circuitry, the fan and the shroud that it turns in. This gave access to the two switches. Found them both on for approx. $25 bucks each. Replaced them both, and the furnace has run well ever since (almost two years now). It was the limit switch that had failed -- on the bench with the ohm meter, the removed sail switch worked perfectly. Good luck with it...!
Old Islander 09/04/19 10:27am Travel Trailers
RV'ing 100 Years Ago

Thought some of you might enjoy this article in 'Atlas Obscura' this morning. RV'ing 100 Years Ago One pic from the article: width=800 When we were kids in the 50's, I can't recall our family knowing anyone who owned an RV. We knew about them, because the 'Wally Byam Caravan' came to our town one year.
Old Islander 09/03/19 08:49am General RVing Issues
RE: British Columbia, Canada

We took the Coquihalla highway southbound in March on our way to Vancouver Island. It snowed fairly heavily and driving was a little tough with few places to get off for a rest until we were nearly to highway 3 at the south end. Behold there was a nice, friendly private campsite where we had a quiet night and good showers in the morning. On a back road toward Hope we saw the entrance to a park with historic railway tunnels. Unfortunately it was still closed for winterCanyon Provincial Park Thanks for that link, Harvey. I've lived here all my life and didn't know about that park. I'll make a special trip there and see it soon. My granddad was a conductor on the famous 'Kettle Valley Railway' and would have been through those tunnels hundreds of times, back when the railway was still in operation.
Old Islander 08/30/19 10:44am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Using the black water tank as a second grey water tank

As others have said, there is no apparent reason why you couldn't/shouldn't do this. There are likely several different ways to plumb it, that'll accomplish the job. One thing that occurs to me, is you may want to plumb a connecting line between the tanks so they self-level. Otherwise, one tank may consistently fill up before the other. Being as how there is no solid waste, you wouldn't need a big line to do it -- 1" would probably be plenty. And you might also think about making the mod reversible, in case you ever want to put it back the way it was, for resale. If you do it, some pics and an article about the job would be interesting -- I'd enjoy following the work.
Old Islander 08/29/19 09:21am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Trip Report -- WA to Northern BC and Back

Emcvay, many thanks for the pics and comments of your recent BC trip. We may have crossed paths; we did a loop of the central province -- just home a week ago. Coincidentally, we also stayed at the Monck Provincial Park campsite at Nicola lake, and at the Barkerville RV site. Monck Prov. Park Did you make reservations for all your sites? Normally we do, but this trip was an experiment, in that we made none. We were able to get into every park we visited, often with really nice sites. At two, including the Monck campground, we were able to get waterfront sites. I think the trick is to drive in the morning, and get to the campground in the early afternoon, before everyone starts to arrive. Then go off exploring. I'll look forward to seeing the rest of your pics...
Old Islander 08/28/19 11:15am Truck Campers
RE: British Columbia, Canada

We’ve lived in BC all our lives, and still enjoy RV’ing every year to some new location. We just got back from a loop thru the central province – almost 3000 km. Regarding your questions about BC, here are some thoughts. First, I’d forget Hope; uninteresting little town – the hub of 3 major highways (with apologies to its citizenry...;)) As other’s have said, the ‘Coke’ (Hwy 5) is a quick means (2 hrs) to get from the Fraser Valley to the central interior, where you have many amazing choices about where to go and what to see next. If you have time, there are more scenic routes to the interior. Another choice from Hope – the Hope/Princeton highway (Hwy 3) which travels eastward from Hope. Really some nice scenery and a nice park (Manning Park) half-way thru with beautiful Provincial parks and camping. This highway takes you to the south Okanagan valley – an amazing place to explore. Another highway out of Hope is the Fraser canyon (Hwy 1) – there is some nice scenery but can be slow in the summer, due to being mostly single lane. Lots of railway history here and in some areas, you can still see the old gold rush trail high about the Thompson River. At the top of the ‘Coke’, you head into the central interior, where we were. We did a loop up to Prince Goerge on Hwy 97 (which by the way, can be followed south, right to Weed, CA). Then we headed east on Hwy 16, which loops all the way back down to Kamloops at the top of the 'Coke'. Stayed at Wells Gray NP -- saw waterfalls even more amazing than Niagra... From these highways, there are a thousand side jaunts – we visited Barkerville (small preserved gold rush town from the 1860’s – well worth seeing...) east of Quesnel and a side-trip to Jasper from Hwy 16 (nothing less that spectacular...). I never drove more than 5 hours a day – never made a campground reservation, and always got a great campsite – twice we got lakefront sites. We did all of this in two weeks. If you’d like more info about specific areas, let us know... Hope you have a great trip.
Old Islander 08/27/19 10:25am RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: What is unusual/ wrong with these Pickup Trucks?

Back in the late 60's and early 70's, I had a friend who drove a '65 Bedford van much like this one ... He put a 100K on it, without any serious problems (unlike many English cars of the day...). It was pretty cool -- in the summer, he drove it with the doors open. Used it for business and ahhhh... pleasure...! ;)
Old Islander 08/26/19 12:12pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

Very nice! Inspiration for the job I will be doing on a friend's small TT, which has a soft, soggy, bad whole floor from water damage. (She can't fix it herself, or afford a repairman.) The downside is now your DW will note that work and say, "Since you are so good at that, now you can do ...." :) LOL... It's already happened...!:B I don't envy you the job you're facing with the TT... Hope it goes well...
Old Islander 08/05/19 06:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

Finished the trim this weekend. The flooring is interlocking 100% waterproof planks, 4' x 7" x 3/16". It's a floating floor, with no glue or fasteners -- just the trim around the edges. I choose a light gray so it would go with all the other colours in the camper. The floor now feels absolutely solid -- all the creaks and movement are gone. We're pretty happy with it. Thanks for all your suggestions -- especially "mobeewan" for his idea of thickening the existing floor with a new sheet of plywood.
Old Islander 08/05/19 05:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing water tank

A plastic welder or some kind of glue is looking better all the time. I have never heard of a glue that will permanently stick to a polyethylene plastic resin tank. Maybe someone else has? Several years ago, I welded a crack on a polyethylene water tank using scraps from a similar tank and a big soldering iron. Used that camper for a couple of years afterward, before selling it (much of that, pounding on back country roads...). I had to remove the tank to do it; could not find a replacement the same size. :( If you have good access to the crack, it might me worth a try at welding, before removing the tank. Are you sure that whatever caused this crack, won't cause others down the road?
Old Islander 08/01/19 10:52am Travel Trailers
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

Progress report... Patched the 2' square hold with 3/4" plywood, then covered the entire floor with another sheet of 5/8" good-one-side plywood. There are almost 200 screws down into the subfloor and for the first time in years, the floor feels solid with no squeaks or movement when walking anywhere on its surface.
Old Islander 07/30/19 10:11am Tech Issues
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

For lots more work, you could make room above the water tank for the under-floor repair, by lowering the tank. LOL... I'm a bit too lazy to tackle that. :) ;) Working on it today, I got wondering how far the failed joint traveled through the subfloor. From the cut where I took the pic, the butt-joint travels under the slider mechanism. Then it continues right to the rear door. Standing on the joint with shoes off, I can feel that joint moving slightly, it's entire length. So it was one big piece of plywood that Okanagan used, with the flaw running a full 8' through the sheet. It's too big to cut it all out, so today I bought a sheet of plywood and will cover the entire floor as 'mobeewan' suggested above. Then with a gazillion screws down into the old subfloor, that should stiffen it up. Then a new floor on top of the plywood. Again, it's no wonder Okanagan went out of business, buying and using cr*p like this plywood, in their RV's. :( :M
Old Islander 07/26/19 06:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

I don't quite understand what the photo is showing, but the slide-in camper we had came with a step up to the bed, which was the top of the battery box, which was about a foot wide. The water pump was in the same box with the batteries, Anyway, assuming you have removed the cover for the water pump etc, so not showing, can you make a new water pump cover that comes back farther to cover the "hole" too, and step on that? Might have to cut the cupboard door bottom short on the right, move a hinge, but you can still reach down to get stuff. You're right, there was a step-up box there that was removed before the first photo -- should have taken one before doing that. Below is the camper floor plan showing the step -- the hand-drawn red box is the 23" x 23" hole I've cut out. So building a box over it would solve the problem, but it would be a nuisance stepping up on it to access the fridge and it would likely impair the slider moving in. I sure wish I could, though... :)
Old Islander 07/25/19 07:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

As long as you can still open and close your cabinet doors you might consider getting a piece of three-quarter inch marine plywood and using it to cover the entire floor of the camper with the exception of the area to access the wire, pump and tubing. Then you could cover the new plywood with a single piece of new vinyl flooring with trim molding around the edges. You're going to need new vinyl flooring anyway. Just make sure to use short screws over the water tank when screwing the new plywood to the old plywood that you haven't removed. I had considered using rolled vinyl flooring. But I've discovered that you can't even buy rolls of vinyl flooring here anymore (I'm in Victoria, Canada). I've read a number of posts suggesting that the best way to go now with RV's is interlocking 18" x 36" panels of floating flooring. I just did a bathroom with it -- it looks good, was fairly easy to work with, and 100% waterproof. So I'll likely use that. But I like your idea of screwing down a new sub-floor over the entire camper floor. I would have space under cupboard doors etc. In a previous post, Art suggested angle iron supports. I was just out measuring, and the water-tank was installed so it's top is tight against the underside of the existing (failed...) sub-floor. So to make angle iron work, I'd have to 'rabbit' the new patch -- the thickness of the angle iron. A new sub-floor would strengthen the entire floor and provide support over the patched 2' square hole I just made. Great idea... Thanks.
Old Islander 07/25/19 01:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

3/4 x3/4 x 1/8 angle iron. Notch the ends so it is supported on the framing with the flange supporting that questionable joining practice. Drill and countersink the vertical flange (lower than centerline) for suitable flat head screws to drive in parallel to the floor sheet. Before final assembly, dampen the wood with a sprayer bottle of water and get some urethane glue in the split. Practice dry fit up first as the final fit will be much easier. Art. That is a great idea re the angle iron, Art... Will look at the 'hole' tomorrow, and think that thru... Thanks...!!!
Old Islander 07/25/19 08:38am Tech Issues
Truck Camper Sub-floor Issue and Repair

We have a 2006 Okanagan 811SL truck camper with a slide out. About a year ago, it developed a depression in the floor, right where you climb up into the over-cab bunk. I was afraid that it was rotting -- it felt very soft while standing on it in socking feet. So this week, finally got around to cutting it out. Here's the area -- the soft spot circled in red felt pen. Next, I've cut the area out, making the cuts over framing members, so the replacement piece will have something solid to be attached to and rest on. And here's the culprit... The good news is, there is no rot. Okanagan used a crappy sheet of plywood for the subfloor. There is a long butt joint, sandwiched inside between two thin sheets of veneer. You can see it the pic that the wood on either side of the butt joint is different. This was was simply a joint that slipped -- the veneer wasn't strong enough to keep it tight. It was almost guaranteed to eventually fail. It's no wonder Okanagan went out of business, with QC like this.:M The plywood in this pic can't be cut back any further -- it heads under the slider area. So I'll force glue in there with air pressure, try to wedge it up so it comes back together and put a row of wood screws to try and hold it together (bearing in mind, the water tank is directly beneath...) :(. I'm also thinking I'll put a 6" strip of sheet metal over the remaining butt joint. Then the new camper flooring over that. Any other suggestions on how to deal with this? If there are other Okanagan owners with a strange depression in their floors, this might be the issue. I'll post some pics of whatever I eventually do...
Old Islander 07/24/19 06:17pm Tech Issues
RE: 2007 okanagan 811SL slide problem

Do you have the manual for it? We have the same camper -- a 2006. I recall reading the manual and seeing quite a bit of info about this motor/gear/rail; trouble-shooting, maintenance, etc. If you don't have that, I could scan mine and send it to you...
Old Islander 07/20/19 06:18pm Tech Issues
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