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 > Your search for posts made by 'JoeChiOhki' found 51 matches.

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RE: Registration Rant

With the registration going by total length of the RV in Oregon, plus the registration fees having gone up, you'd probably be at around at least a hundred dollars more if both the truck and camper renewed in the same year. If it was just the pickup truck, I believe it wound be around $150 for two years.
JoeChiOhki 02/21/20 12:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Alternative Generator For our campers

Idling Causes Excessive Engine Wear • Running an engine at low speed (idling) causes twice the wear on internal parts compared to driving at regular speeds. According to the American Trucking Association, such wear can increase maintenance costs by almost $2,000 per year and shorten the life of the engine. That's usually why most of the on-engine driven stuff or PTO stuff brings the RPMs of the engine up closer to their road running levels while working :).
JoeChiOhki 02/21/20 12:32pm Truck Campers
RE: Alternative Generator For our campers

You'd be better served getting a belt driven generator kit from if you wanted to add 110volt power generation directly to your vehicles engine, though the better ones are RealPower's PTO drive generator kits
JoeChiOhki 02/12/20 08:09pm Truck Campers
RE: What did you do to your truck today?

Got everything on the roof caulked (except for the escape hatch, ran out of time last weekend), and the screw strip around the cap near the cabover (still needs the rest done), and added the spacer blocks on the snap-n-nap hinges so push it back 3/4" so that it would clear the new bathroom wall.
JoeChiOhki 10/09/19 10:31pm Truck Campers
RE: So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?

First and last time I carry an air conditioner on my shoulder while climbing up a 15' ladder. Brave man, wouldn't even attempt it! Sadly, didn't really have any other way of getting it up there by myself, camper's still kinda stuck on the truck for a bit longer till I get the batteries installed and pull the last of the wire for the jacks. Ironically, its now the tallest thing on the camper, even sticking up above the cabover roof.
JoeChiOhki 09/10/19 01:55pm Truck Campers
RE: So what did you do to your Truck Camper today?

Put an A/C unit on its roof. First and last time I carry an air conditioner on my shoulder while climbing up a 15' ladder so I can sit it on the roof.
JoeChiOhki 09/09/19 04:34pm Truck Campers
RE: loosing old members

Hey quick question: what’s up with Marcus Lemonis and what’s the relationship with D He's the current majority owner of Good Sam Enterprises, which owns, Trailer Life, Good Sams Club, etc.... There's even a "Dear Marcus" section in the forum :)
JoeChiOhki 09/07/19 03:58am Truck Campers
RE: loosing old members

Still around, even after 16 years and my early days of trying to get a camper on a 1/2 ton, though my posting has mostly been seasonal, as its been seven years since I last took a camper out on the road (The big two month adventure back in 2012 was the end of the KIT's road, he's been in storage ever since 2013). Sadly, the readership here is definitely way down. Alot of the time, updates on my bigger project posts tend to go without reply anymore, when they'd usually get a few replies with each addition. I feel like alot of the remaining forum traffic has migrated into the RVLife owned network of forums (iRV2, Airstreamers, FiberglassRV, etc...), and I suspect Marcus Lemonis alienating a hunk of his user base back during the last presidential election period probably didn't help the user levels of the forum much either. Sadly, the portal I used to use is long gone, with the Woodalls interface no longer around (I liked it because it had a green color scheme).
JoeChiOhki 09/06/19 06:31pm Truck Campers
RE: 3 pin plug umbilical cord

I'm having a hard time understanding a "3 pin". If the camper has only marker lights, 2 would work. And turn signals, got to have 4... It's probably a short unit that doesn't block the tail lights, so it like only has 12 +/- for cabin power, plus a marker lights circuit.
JoeChiOhki 08/31/19 04:46am Truck Campers
RE: Rebuilding "Ms. Merry" The Amerigo - Updated 8/30/2019

Saturday, August 31, 2019 Rebuilding “Ms. Merry” the Amerigo–The new Loo–Part 2 Ms. Merry is continuing to look more like a usable camper with each update This time around, we’ve been working on getting the sewer plumbing in place, allow for at last, the installation of Merry’s new holding tank and the sewer and vent lines that go into Merry’s new bathroom! The first step we had to tackle was getting Merry’s new holding tank in its final position and the inlet flanges located for the new toilet and the vent line that would be going up through the shower (Painted white like a column, similar to how we did it in Mr. KIT in The Great Bathroom Remodel. The difference in Merry being her vent pipe will go from floor to ceiling, where-as in Mr. KIT, it only had to go from counter top to ceiling. One thing I love about Ms. Merry’s new holding tank is unlike Mr. KIT’s whose was made of polypropylene and required spin welding to attach anything, Ms. Merry’s is ABS plastic, which simply requires cutting the holes for the flange and then gluing it in place, much much easier! You’re likely wondering what the white compound is around the outer dump valve, that is water proof (below water line) epoxy putty, which was used to pack in the remaining gap between the flange the T- fitting between the two main valves. I had hoped when I removed the studs and glued the valve on that it would be a tight enough fitting that it would be water tight, sadly, it still leaked a little bit, which the epoxy took care of. The valves are currently in the wrong alignment in the picture, they’re going to all be repositoned so that the pull handles point down so that the handles can extend through the floor of the heated compartment and are accessible underneath so they can be accessed without having to add a second hatch to the compartment floor that might come open during travel. The main valve bodies will be up in the heated and insulated tank compartment, allowing them to remain warm during winter use. Once we got the flanges in place, the next step was to install the floor insulation, cut out the pass through holes for the pipes and install the spacer ring to the underside of the floor that the tank would be anchored to. The spacer was necessary to give the flange on the top of the tank and the bottom of the offset flange enough room to be able to fully join, as the flange extends down an additional inch and a half below the floor. The offset flange was needed to allow the toilet to be fully situated back near the wall in the bathroom, and keep the whole valve and dump connection assembly to remain inside the tank compartment and kept warm. During winter use, we’ll likely need to make a water proof packing ring to stuff in around the sewer hose as it comes out through the compartment hatch so that the warm air being suppled by the furnace isn’t lost to the outside entirely. In the picture, only the initial screws were installed to hold the spacer in place while the tank was being positioned for flange installation. Once the flange work was done, the tank was removed and additional 3” screws were drive in all around the spacer to fully anchor it into the floor. The tank was then later reinstalled to this spacer ring with lag screws and wide fender washers all around its perimeter to permanently anchor it into place securely enough to handle the liquid movement force of a full holding tank while the camper is moving. Once the toilet flange and other pipes are in place, the tank will then be filled completely and left full for 24-48 hours to check for leaks an anchor failure. With the tank finally in its permanent home, we started plumbing the lines going into the tank, starting first with the grey water lines going up through the floor, where the first T connects the pipe to the drain line come from the shower before going up to a second T that takes the feed coming from the bathroom sink and then later traveling on to the kitchen sink at the front of the camper. Originally, I had planned to use a HepVo valve instead of a standard P or U trap on the shower’s drain line, however, after unpacking the HepVo valve, it was very clear that the membrane in it would end up slowing the shower flow too much to work properly and with the spacer ring providing additional space between the floor and the tank, there was more than sufficient room to simply cut an additional hole in the floor for the U Trap to drop into above the tank, allowing for the use of standard plumbing practices instead of the rubber membrane HepVO valve. A Inlet valve or “Cheater Valve” was installed at the top of the drain line, though the access hole still needs to be cut so that it can be serviced if at some point in the future it fails. The use of a inlet valve in this space, allows for the air inlet to be inside the camper, a second one will be installed on the line going to the kitchen sink, allowing for the complete removal of one of the roof vent holes in the roof, allowing me to permanently patch that spot in the camper’s roof and reduce the number of potential leak points on the camper’s roof. Ms. Merry’s original ceiling showed the signs of water entry around the original vent when we were demolishing the original interior. As the pipes were installed, standing full pipe water tests have been performed to ensure that none of the joints in the new system leak. A final full system standing water test will be done once I pick up some test plugs to make sure that the there are zero leak locations. The pipe coming up through the floor on the left is the tank vent, which the tank inlet can be seen in the picture of the unmounted tank. You can see more clearly why the offset toilet flange assembly had to be used in order to connect the toilet to the tank without losing vast amounts of precious bathroom floor space. The white piece of pipe on the end of the long pipe running across the floor on the right, is a piece from the Hepvo valve kit that I reused, as it fits the threads of the new stainless steel shower drain and threads right into a standard inch and a half FPT connection. The Valterra drain unfortunately will not directly thread into a FPT connection and a comparable match from the hardware store has the same issue, neither is designed for direct threaded connection, unlike the original flanges the camper had (The shower flange broke into pieces during removal as all the original flanges were made of plastic), necessitating the use of the elbow assembly from the hepvo as a normal slip fitting with a regular elbow is too tall to fit in the narrow confines below the shower floor. You can see the elbow more clearly in the second picture below. I will be building a little access hatch into the bottom of the front walls of the shower so that I can easily access the shower drain flange for servicing in the future. I ended up needing to add a 3/4” spacer to the floor frame to lift it up even with this so that the drain line going the shower had a proper downhill slope to ensure proper drainage. Like the other fittings, this too, was standing water tested and fed water as fast as I could pour it in to make sure that the drain did not slow. The water on the floor underneath it is due to the fact that the fittings on the drain were not fully tightened at the time of testing as I did not want to weaken the seal on the rubber O-ring that seals the elbow to the drain by fully tightening it until it was time for final permanent installation. The shower floor will need to be removed at least a couple times more to allow for the installation of the heater vent line and wiring for the “See-Level” tank sensor system for the holding tank. Once those two parts have been completed, the holes for the carriage bolts that will permanent clamp the shower floor in place will be installed, and the aluminum flashing installed around the perimeter so that the floor and side walls can be fiberglass sealed in place. The final floor finish will be made of a sheet of FRP “orange peel” texture which will be epoxied into place over the top of the underlying fiberglass coating. I will also be working the floor area in the front section with a grinder to properly slope the pan down to the drain so that all water is directed into the drain. The pan as a whole is sloped already via the underlying floor framing, however a low point needs to be still made to help the final water direction into the drain. The opening was already recessed for the drain flange and will be sloped down to that. A 2x2 support lip will be glued and screwed to the underside of the front of the floor once all under floor work is done, this will then be anchored into the remaining bathroom walls so that the floor is fully supported and strong enough to take my weight. As I wasn’t able to completely eliminate the rear butt sag, the shower pan’s support structure was designed to compensate for the sag in the rear so that the bathroom toilet sits level, but has just enough slope to allow for water to be directed properly to the drain. I modeled the slope degree and direction after the original shower pan that had come with the camper. And that’s it for “The New Loo – Part 2!”
JoeChiOhki 08/31/19 03:31am Truck Campers
RE: How to disable propane >> Yeah another fridge topic.

In my previous RVs I liked to travel with propane off at tanks as safety measure. The older fridge models had manual switches that when I opted for 120v from inverter - they would stay or die on this mode. Motorhomes had bigger charging wires, so running fridge for couple of hr on house batteries, still would recharge them when I continue driving later. Now I would like to do the same on TC and having built-in inverter on my truck, would be nice to take advantage of it and secure 120V cable from truck directly to the fridge plug. My dilemma is the computerized system, that when I stop at gas station and turn the truck off - in lack of 120V the computer will start sparking the igniter and with lack of propane it will spark for a while. That brings safety concern at gas station as well. So for those who are good with computer controls - how to override the propane option and let the fridge go off or into 12V mode when 120V turns off? Upgrade to a lift gate plug for your 12 volt +/- coming from your alternator so you have #4 wire going all the way back and install the inverter in the camper as a permanent fixture. Setup a two way two pole throw switch that connects the outlet either to the inverter or to the camper's internal 110volt circuit and put a small circuit breaker box in with a 15 amp breaker so that the fridge still has circuit breaker protection. Now, you can leave the fridge going, no worries about it trying start the ignitor and your batteries are getting enough current from the alternator to charge while powering the fridge off the inverter.
JoeChiOhki 08/28/19 03:14pm Truck Campers
RE: Rebuilding "Ms. Merry" The Amerigo - Updated 8/30/2019

I never had a problem to use compression fittings on copper even I am good in soldering. Compression can be done in hard to reach places, can be disconnected and reconnected in short time and is life-lasting fitting. But they seem to be pushed out from market by shark-bites fittings. Shark bites are easy to install, but reinstallation is going to be tricky and since they have rubber orings- this will not last forever. width=500 I feel like an idiot, I completely derped bending copper tubing and using flare couplers, given I'm going to be doing exactly that when I put in the stub lines for the propane system.
JoeChiOhki 08/15/19 04:29pm Truck Campers
RE: Rebuilding "Ms. Merry" The Amerigo - Updated 8/30/2019

Steel and copper makes electro-corrosion, who might not act very fast, but it will be time bomb. Brass has copper in it, so on smaller scale will do the same. I am big fan of copper plumbing. With copper tubings you can go smaller size than plastic, while still having the same flow. I was restoring 1964 Airstream TT with copper, few years ago and just for the test, hook it up directly to 150 psi city water. The plumbing hold it just fine. But the aluminium toilet pedestal turned into dust. I was debating copper as well, the catch is I need to be able to get it in a threaded format so I can put it together (Ergo why 99% of the camper's plumbing is going to be PEX, with a dash of PVC on the city inlet line for the blow out connection. Ideally, I'd love to run all chromed pipe along the wall, but that has the same issue, finding threaded pieces that will work. I'm figuring that what's most likely going to happen is the braided stainless steel water lines.
JoeChiOhki 08/15/19 11:50am Truck Campers
RE: Rebuilding "Ms. Merry" The Amerigo - Updated 8/30/2019

Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Rebuilding “Ms. Merry” the Amerigo–Merry goes to the wall! – Part 2 We’re back for Part 2 of wall building in Ms. Merry! In our last chapter, we’d just gotten the main cabinet wall in place, now, we’re back with the rest of the inner bathroom wall put together! Since we’re only reusing a small section of the original bathroom, I had to build an upper wall to house our medicine cabinet. Like everything, its made of a combination of 2x2 and 2x3 lumber, the 2x3 at the bottom there to add a couple sections of 2x3 ledge to go under the bottom of the sink frame so that the fiberglass is fully supported since it no longer has the rigidity that came from the full clamshell enclosure. Ms. Merry’s medicine cabinet is another donation from Mr. KIT, a new medicine cabinet was bought that was the original smaller size I had originally installed in Mr. KIT back when the bathroom was first remodeled. This larger, somewhat nicer medicine cabinet with adjustable shelves was the replacement I ended up later getting due to me being a moron and not making a shower curtain that went in front of the cabinet to keep the water from soaking the cardboard backer. Another thing we’re doing differently is in Merry, the cabinet is recessed into the wall, giving us a better line of access to the sink and making it easier to hopefully get a spring loaded latch to keep it shut vs the bungee cord job I was using with Mr. KIT. We’re later on going to use the grinder to taper the fiberglass on the back edges of the section being reused so that they more easily slip under the FRP board that will make the walls and floor of the wet bath. You can also see the faucet assembly we’re using temporarily installed for visualization purposes and pipe planning. We’re going to be using two faucets in the bathroom, the original sink faucet is going to be replaced with a nice standard bathroom faucet. The shower head will be attached to this nice chromed solid brass outdoor shower assembly we picked up. I haven’t decided on if I’m going to go with galvanized pipe painted with chrome paint to go between the faucet and the point on the sink where they’ll pass through and connect to the camper’s pex plumbing, or use stainless steel braided water lines and simply use brass connection points coming up through the sink top. Sadly, there’s going to be a bit of a delay before the next post, I’m going to be out of town this weekend, so sadly, no additional work will be done till the following monday. When we come back, we’ll be resuming work on the waste tank and ABS sewer plumbing work, as we now have enough of the bathroom walls in place to route the pipes that are going to the holding tank in the rear, allowing us to finally get the tank compartment done. Since the summer doesn’t last forever, I’ll be working on jobs that will allow me to get all exterior related work finished before we lose the weather again, but allow for Merry to be finished over the winter if we can’t get her done by the time the weather turns south.
JoeChiOhki 08/15/19 12:59am Truck Campers
RE: Forum appears to be forcing https calls in IMG tag

Okay, this appears to be location-based. It occurs with our internet at home on one PC with multiple browsers, but doesn't occur with any other devices. This can be closed.
JoeChiOhki 08/12/19 11:41am Forum Posting Help and Support
Forum appears to be forcing https calls in IMG tag

For some reason, the forum is trying to pull the photos I posted in IMG tags via https, which is great and all, except the server I'm using (which I own) doesn't have https support, so all the photos are broken. I can load post that 4UMS block on other forums and the photos load, but for some reason here, its trying to automatically redirect to https, which is breaking the IMG tags. The URL link works just fine.
JoeChiOhki 08/12/19 12:56am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Rebuilding "Ms. Merry" The Amerigo - Updated 8/30/2019

Sunday, August 11, 2019 Rebuilding “Ms. Merry” the Amerigo–Merry goes to the wall – Part 1 Progress has been a bit slow on Merry in the last couple weeks, partly due to the ER visit a couple weeks ago, due a nose bleed that wouldn’t stop. But, its good progress that is being made! Already, we have the first of the inner bathroom walls in, plus the main cabinet wall frame is now in as well! I pulled the sink during this, as it still needs the bottom edge trimmed to match the slope of the new bathroom floor (It slopes down to the drain point), once its trimmed I can start building the rest of the inner wall frame that will get tied into that open large gap on the left. We ended up building the cabinet wall to be a bit extra sturdy because it will be carrying a big hunk of the Air Conditioner load on the roof down to the floor of the camper, helping to keep the roof crowned and from sagging under the weight of the unit as time passes. The small framed in openings in the lower section are for a Cadet Com-Pak 1000watt in-wall electric heater (Our secondary heat system, borrowed from NetBoy’s design that they did so many years ago, been waiting years to use that one on the left and the new Progressive Dynamics dist ribution panel on the right. The notch out in the wall behind it is so that there is path for the air moving through the 3-stage converter to travel (I actually ended up cutting the plastic back section off the panel near the board and heat sinks so that the air could travel trough that tunnel space, there’s going to be a little grate in the corner wall near the kitchen for the air movement so the blower can properly cool the converter). With the wall panel installed The upper section will have the finished maple frame installed on it covering over the framing. One thing we’re doing different is I’m getting rid of the two drawers below the main wardrobe cabinet in favor of another cabinet space, in which we plan to store the towels. This cabinet will have a removable false bottom to sit above the wires and pipes that will be running underneath which can be easily lifted out if service work needs to be done. With the Progressive Dynamics Power Panel and the can for the heater temporarily installed in place. You can see that our heater has ample clearance around it and a bit more clearly on how the indent works for the back of the distribution panel. Soon, we’ll be able to take that giant spaghetti of wires and bundle them together and finally tie them into something!
JoeChiOhki 08/12/19 12:32am Truck Campers
RE: Tryin to talk the wife into a newer

The bathroom and shower are a big part of the catalyst that has driven my full remodel project on the Amer8go, it's hard to find a camper bathroom that fits when you're as big as me :p I own 2 campers with similar floorplans but "somehow" 1 bathroom is way more comfortable than other. Getting tape measure show 1" of space more here or there, higher shower pan, flatter medicine cabinet, the door opening on opposite side make heck of the difference in comfort. Badly enough the one with more comfortable shower and sink, has lower toilet, so I am checking if I can fit raiser under it. I will have to read more about your project. The more comfortable Fleetwood I have had already extensive dryrot damages and the aluminium skeleton was poorly build to start with. In the past I restored 40 yo Airstream trailer and was really impress with aluminium construction. Meaning I am considering finding one of those aluminium campers and remodel it with stuff from Fleetwood. But the older campers were smaller and I got used to Queen bed and slide too much. ;) I ended up doing two things in the frame up restoration I've been doing to a 1975 Amerigo. I brought the plumbing inside and expanded the bathroom's foot print (it's a wet bath), the original shower drain was in line to be impacted by the truck's bumper when loading (Apparently trucks in the 70s had lower bumpers than the 80s and early 90s) and exposed to the elements, so I built a raised pan/floor for the new bathroom and am enclosing the area under the floor, insulating it and ducting in heat from the new furnace so that the holding tank is all weather) . I then built a height extension of the bathroom onto the roof to allow for my 6'4", 365lb frame to be able to stand up fully in the shower. With the porcelain RV toilet going in, there's a nice standing area ahead of it in the bathroom to shower in. I kept the sink section from the original clamshell bathroom unit that was way too narrow for my big butt. Bathroom
JoeChiOhki 08/09/19 04:03pm Truck Campers
RE: Downloading at Campground

I saw this and was all geared up to write a reply about network repeaters, then discovered it was about offloading the camper at the campsite :p I usually offload if I'm going to be staying in the area for a while and won't be needing the house's services during that time, otherwise, she stays on the truck. In the future, we may have a toad to bring with us, which will eliminate the need to offload on trips when its brought along. :)
JoeChiOhki 08/09/19 03:57pm Truck Campers
RE: Tryin to talk the wife into a newer

Go to see the camper, get into shower, close the curtain and see if you can turn without ripping something. Can you sit comfortable on the throne without opening the door? Can you get in without pushing the slide? Where is the wardrobe? The bathroom and shower are a big part of the catalyst that has driven my full remodel project on the Amer8go, it's hard to find a camper bathroom that fits when you're as big as me :p
JoeChiOhki 08/09/19 10:04am Truck Campers
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