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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: F150 5.0 V8 or V6 Twin Turbo
And don’t just fixate on the engine and/or engine issues. That’s only 1 of several components that are/can/will require attention in a high miles vehicle. In the over 150k category, virtually anything can be or is worn out or near the end of its service life.
As much as I think the 5.0 and eco boost are both generally great engines with a solid drive train behind them, I’d take a 100k mile Triton engine in a cheaper older truck over a 160-170k mile newer powertrain in a newer truck. Especially if it’s not a tow rig.
Also laughable wherever you heard the 5.0 was “under powered”. Even the early versions (paired with std 6 speed vs 4 speed on Triton trucks) will absolutely embarrass any NA 5.4 truck.
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Grit dog
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06/02/23 03:11am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Roosevelt Lake {NE of Phoenix} is full...
new dams/res make good sense . the people in charge have none.
Not to be political, but have you ever worked at building a pond? When the ground is wet, you can't work it. It takes time to do the work. Even after decide where to put it, and how to pay for it.
Been around an old pond that no longer has enough in-flow to keep it full?
Huh?
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Grit dog
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06/02/23 02:57am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Mystery leak
^Sure seems that the effect would be exactly opposite. Like it is for any other vehicle in motion….
Air pressure is lower outside the vehicle due to air speed compared to inside the vehicle.
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Grit dog
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06/02/23 02:54am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: F150 5.0 V8 or V6 Twin Turbo
High miles = stay away from high tech. Get a 5.0 slap new cam phasers in it and drive it like a rental….
Save the twin turbo rigs for someone with more money or less brains.
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 08:24pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: F150 5.0 V8 or V6 Twin Turbo
Thanks for the replies, good info. Another question - I know it's subjective, but how many miles are too many on these trucks? I wanted to stay in the sub 140k range, but many I am seeing have 160-170k miles. Is that too many?
All three motors have more than enough power for anything you’d want to do. But if you’re looking at buying something with over 150k miles, and your budget doesn’t support lower miles, you should be looking at something older with lower miles, or be a decent shadetree unless maybe it’s a local driver low use vehicle. Like a 3rd vehicle per se.
Otherwise, there’s a lot of rigs out there with 200k plus miles on them. How do you deal with repairs keeping up a high mile rig? Is a new engine or trans a grand or 2 and a weekend plus beer or is it a $5-10k “oh sht” moment?
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 08:22pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: towing with a Tesla
OMG this thread is off the charts funny!
Love it!
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 07:58am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: tow with all wheel drive?
^Fair enough. Except the Op didn’t appear to even remotely be asking if certain models were prone to issues. (Which would certainly include other components besides the t case, reliability.). Probably looking at one with lifter issues anyway, lol.
All good anyways.
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 07:55am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New to RVing and In Need Of Advice! :)
^Yup. What he’s saying in theory makes sense for those who don’t really know what they don’t really know what they want or not….lol.
For the rest of us with not only budgets but also the ability to make reasonably sound decisions about what kinda camper we will reasonably have for however long, it sounds just silly.
But I know plenty of people who cycle through campers then trucks then camper then truck…. that Lantleys advice makes sense for. Those that can’t make up their minds and those that generally end up spending a lot of money to “upgrade” repeatedly.
So if the shoe fits I suppose
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 07:48am |
Beginning RVing
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RE: Mystery leak
It only leaks at seams and holes. Don’t have to guess too much. And it’s likely any of the seams on the front cap, clearance lights or side seams nearby.
If the walls and roof don’t show any damage, don’t go exploring.
And floors are easier to fix than walls or roofs.
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Grit dog
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06/01/23 07:38am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Trailer rental
Years ago I did something similar-With a friend drove my F250 from So. Calif. to Md. Bought a good used enclosed trailer from a Dlr there-with a rear ramp and side entrance door-loaded it up with furniture, etc., pulled it back to So Calif. Unloaded it and sold the trailer-within a week-and actually made money on re-selling it.
I’ve done that but selling in WA when I returned. WA has probably the highest prices on trailers short of Alaska so that would be a tough deal to buy one here and not lose money selling it.
OP do you need larger trailer than Uhaul rents? As that is the cheap obvious choice.
If you need something bigger (you said utility trailer but maybe mean a cargo trailer?) may look at renting it locally so you can return it.
I’m not aware of any other 1 way trailer rentals besides Uhaul.
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Grit dog
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05/31/23 10:50pm |
Toy Haulers
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RE: Protection
Unless the camper is not very valuable at all, I wouldn’t store mine outside in the off season without a cover.
And sun does as much or more damage than rain and snow.
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Grit dog
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05/31/23 04:48pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Protection
While a roof is easier than a cover a cover does a good job.
There are places in this country I’d say a cover wouldn’t last long and could also scuff from flapping in the wind, but Indiana isnt one of those places unless there’s a tornaado or may be it’s stored on top of a big hill with no trees.
The 2 winters I’ve used a cover, the rv didn’t even need washed in the spring.
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Grit dog
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05/31/23 04:45pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: F250 upgrades
I am going to through in a totally different consideration if you decide to add airbags.
You can choose between having both bags on the same air line or separate air lines. Separate air lines add stability for high center of gravity loads like some 5th wheels. They can also facilitate hitching up to a 5th wheel on uneven ground by twisting the truck to match the alignment of the camper. On the other hand, when riding empty or with a low CG load a single line allows for more articulation of the rear axle which gives a smoother ride helps avoid getting stuck on uneven ground.
Correct, although generally no air is needed where articulation would be needed.
Never really a better reason to plumb both bags together although there are some scenarios where it is not worse.
OP is in a diffenrt frame of thought though. Not this level of detail.
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Grit dog
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05/30/23 07:27am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: So tell me about your perfect couples travel trailer
Look at small/med size toyhaulers.
They’re everything you describe wanting.
Heavier chassis than comparable TT.
Open space.
Plenty of seating/seating room.
You got plenty of truck to tow it.
They track better than a lot of TTs (when not hauling heavy toys). No sway or wdh needed because they have a lot of tongue weight (may need a new hitch in the truck)
Even though you’re more full hookup, they generally have bigger tanks.
Plenty of them in the $15k range for older ones in good shape.
Quality wise? Good luck. Just find one that everything works and don’t leak.
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Grit dog
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05/30/23 07:21am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: F250 upgrades
^Well assuming you got the camper package or something on yours.
OP is complaining about too much squat. So regardless he’s looking to shore that up…I think.
The regular old F250 company trucks I had, a 2012 and then a 2015 had a compliant initial spring rate. They’d stiffen up pretty good with real weight on them, but that first couple inches of suspension travel was built for comfort.
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Grit dog
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05/29/23 10:17pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: New to RVing and In Need Of Advice! :)
Not that I feel the OP is someone who would generally have a good experience with an older vehicle, but $20k will buy a very nice full size suv and plenty of trucks in that price range as well. Sure it’ll be an older gasser but trucks like gasser duallies, especially 2wd can be found with low miles for $20k or less. But you’ll have to shop a bit for the right one.
But like others said, you need to narrow down what you want for a trailer first. And how you plan on using it (aside from simply “full time”).
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Grit dog
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05/29/23 10:08pm |
Beginning RVing
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RE: F250 upgrades
Well you guys can post all the correct information you want but in my experience on this forum, you will not convince a good number of people that they don’t need to be afraid of their own shadows when it comes to supposed “liability.” Just like you’ll never convince many of the same people that in general 3/4 tons are basically under-rated 1 tons with only lighter duty springs.
Canadian traffic law revenue generation aside…of course.
Good luck.
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Grit dog
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05/29/23 10:23am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: tow with all wheel drive?
Only kinda disappeared cause I couldn't remember if I posted or if I did where? I don't feel like 77 but my brain seems to work that way. Thank you all for responding, did not know that AWD was selectable, so that would be ok.
So far 1994 has been my newest tow vehicle, don't like the newer ones with all the OBDII computers, but may have to do that. So am not familiar with all the recent inventions. I'm stuck in the '60's, towed with a 1965 Chevy Van for years. Has 292 6 very torquey. Still have it, will still tow.
Well fortunately for you there are still a lot of nice GMT400s in our area. And even more GMT800s.
Your paranoia about obd2, while wholly unfounded, will limit you to only earlier model 400s though. Think obd2 became standard around 95?
Nice thing is the old Tahoes and Burbs are way cheaper than the equivalent pickups. $5-6k will get you a pretty nice rig with relatively low miles.
I agree though GMT 400s are a great platform and drivetrain. Still old school simple and quite reliable. That said, early GMT800s are every bit as reliable as well IMo.
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Grit dog
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05/29/23 10:18am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: MGVWR and problems titling trailer
While the weight cops stuff is a little embellished, fact is, you are only about 1200lbs away from maxing out the axles (almost certainly has 5k axles). Go camping, have fun, realize that your trailer will be close to max weight and travel trailers like this aren’t really over built for the ratings.
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Grit dog
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05/28/23 09:54am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: House Battery charging
Yes your rv does or did have a converter/charger.
You should probably verify the old batteries are toast and verify the converter is working before worrying about which brand of battery to buy.
And FLA/SLA or AGM are fine. Since you don’t say whether the die hard battery is sla or agm.
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Grit dog
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05/28/23 09:49am |
Class C Motorhomes
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