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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 783 matches.

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RE: Solar wiring route?

Looks to me like it would be prone to damage from tree branches etc. I may well be wrong there.
DrewE 10/16/19 12:01pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Push to privatize National Park Service campgrounds

My experience dealt with Long Pine cg in the everglades. I had stayed there twice using my senior pass. There are no site hookups. They do have a communal water fill & dump site. The toilets are good and they have solar showers. A couple years ago I checked about going again & a private concessionaire was now in charge & refused to honor the senior pass discount. Almost seems like fraud to change it after the fact. I called & emailed complaints to the NPS but never heard back. I have not returned. I found other free boondocking sites. Just sad they want to take away our senior discount. By "change it after the fact" do you mean the price changed between when you made a reservation and when you arrived, or that the price basically went up (due to there no longer being a discount offered) between your previous stay and your inquiry? The former seems questionable, the latter in my opinion is nothing at all near fraud, any more than a store or restaurant raising their prices substantially. You, of course, have the option of taking your custom elsewhere, as indeed you did.
DrewE 10/16/19 08:26am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Gas stove in fifth wheel

Turn off all the stove control knobs and you should be good to go. Typically in an RV there are no individual gas shutoffs for each appliance, just the usual control valves and the main shutoff at the tank. The stove is no different in that regard than the furnace or fridge (if it's not a residential fridge)...or, for that matter, the water heater.
DrewE 10/15/19 10:10pm Tech Issues
RE: 2 Battery banks built from 6 volts

It looks to me like there would be space to construct a two storey battery box on the trailer tongue. That's what I would do (and have them always all connected). With a switching arrangement, you'd in essence be just swapping batteries in and out, so whichever one is active would be active for the loads, the converter, and the solar charging, and the other would be sitting entirely disconnected, assuming you wired all the loads and such through the selector switch. If you had the inverter or whatever bypassing it, it would of course only use the battery it's connected to regardless of the switch setting. (An exception would be the 1+2 setting, which connects everything to everything else.)
DrewE 10/15/19 08:24am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: First Diesel Pusher Drive

Actually the idea of a Class A or B license in PA was news to me, but as it turns out, there is a very clear exception for RVs where it is used exclusively for personal use. I may take the test just to make myself a better driver though. The requirements for a commercial driver's license (of any class) do not include RVs. In Pennsylvania, however, a non-commercial class B license is required for a motorhome over 26,000 pounds. See this page from PennDOT: "CLASS B (minimum age 18): Required to operate any single vehicle rated in excess of 26,000 pounds. Example: Motor homes rated at 26,001 pounds or more."
DrewE 10/13/19 07:14pm Beginning RVing
RE: First Diesel Pusher Drive

Practice is the best way I know of. Needless to say, it's essential to give yourself more room to accelerate, to turn, and to slow down. A DP simply will not stop as quickly as a car, no matter what you do; that's just plain physics. One thing that may be helpful, particularly if you're having trouble with keeping lane position, is to look further down the road. There's a tendency to want to look more or less immediately in front of you, and that that often leads to overcorrections. Keeping the point farther down the lane helps to even that out; likewise, making smaller corrections and waiting a bit longer for them to take effect helps.
DrewE 10/13/19 03:08pm Beginning RVing
RE: Campground Maximum Length

“If you are at all competent backing your rig, you can generally fudge it by a few feet without problem” But I’ll be the RVer waiting and waiting while you try to horse an oversized rig into a site. JUST FOLLOW THE RULES! Do doctors recommend other doctors “fudge?” LOL... no you won't. An extra five feet is always easily doable... unless you're one of those noobs who spend ten minutes hollering back and forth with his DW, who stands in his blind spot waving her arms and yelling... and still runs over the firepit. That depends on the campground (and possibly the site). In many campgrounds, five feet extra is no big deal at all. Occasionally, though, that's not the case at all, and five feet over the stated site length means you'll stick out four and a half feet, and likely have to use a different site or a different campground.
DrewE 10/12/19 08:50pm Beginning RVing
RE: Move to Motorhome

It seems to me that a lot of people (not necessarily you) have the idea that a longer class C is much harder to drive than a shorter one, and for that reason are scared of getting one that's all that long. Others worry about site availability for larger units--which is indeed occasionally a valid concern, but in many cases not a problem in practice. Still others suspect that it has a significant impact on fuel mileage, which is generally not the case to any great extent. For what are often mistaken reasons, they seek to compromise convenience and usability (tank sizes, etc.) when that's not really necessary. The reality, in terms of driving, is that length makes very little difference on the road, and some difference when maneuvering around tight areas. The width and height are more noticeable concerns. I'd guess you may have some general awareness of these sorts of issues with your experience with a travel trailer. As far as gas mileage, with my twenty year old class C based on the Ford E series platform, I average somewhere between 7.5 and 8 mpg, probably closer to 7.5 most of the time. New ones do a little bit better, maybe 1 mpg better, thanks to engine and especially transmission improvements. As with any motorhome, one's speed has a very significant impact on fuel mileage, since during highway travel most of the power is used in overcoming air resistance and that increases enormously with speed (I think it's approximately proportional to the speed cubed in rough terms).
DrewE 10/12/19 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Bad Ground wire taillights Dim

If the wire is connected to the frame, it's a ground. The color is meaningless at that point. More generally, expecting a consistent color scheme on RV wiring is quite optimistic, and even more so if people have had to make repairs or additions or changes over time.
DrewE 10/11/19 11:53am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH accident in gas station!

As a former safety guy, and I've said this literally thousands of times "That's NOT an accident! That's a drivers failure to pay full time attention to what he/she is doing." Accidents are when you're killed or injured by a falling tree limb, for example. In other words, Accidents are accidents, stupid stuff is stupid stuff. It seems to me that an accident is anything that is not done intentionally. I'm pretty sure the driver of the motorhome didn't intend to destroy the fender and pull the axle out of position and incur a sizable tow truck bill, hence this would be an accident. More generally, it seems to me that what typically are called accidents are always things that might have been foreseeable and preventable. An earthquake, for instance, is not an accident; leveling a building with an unintended explosion, even if caused by carelessness, is an accident since nobody set out to destroy property. Choosing not to use the facilities when one's bladder is full can lead to a different kind of accident, even though it's entirely foreseeable and preventable.
DrewE 10/11/19 11:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: What good are low point drains?

If the valve for the low point drains is in the heated section of the RV, there's nothing in the pipes to freeze and cause problems. I would conjecture that this is the case in your RV, though I obviously can't know for sure.
DrewE 10/10/19 09:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Urgent Need of Advice re Winterizing!

Running the pump dry is sufficient (along with blowing out the lines thoroughly, draining the tanks, etc). RV water pumps are not harmed by operating them dry for a few minutes...or hours. If you use RV antifreeze, that gets pumped through the pump along with the rest of the system. If it were me in your situation, I would probably dump the gray and black water on the ground; however, I am not in any way suggesting you disobey any sanitation laws or regulations in your locality. A little bit of water in the bottom of the black or gray tank that freezes won't cause trouble for the tank. Some water in the pipe that runs from the tank to the drain valve that freezes could burst that pipe or its fittings, particularly if it is sufficient to fill the pipes without leaving an air gap at the top. One reasonable option to prevent freezing of black and gray water is to introduce some rock salt into the tanks, which I think preferable to windshield washer fluid. (Winter winshield washer fluid typically uses wood alcohol for its antifreeze ingredient; besides being rather poisonous, it is a somewhat active solvent. It probably would not attack any of the materials in the tanks and valves to any great extent, but still....)
DrewE 10/09/19 05:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Headlights blinking randomly

It could be a loose wire or socket or ground connection, too, besides the things already suggested.
DrewE 10/09/19 05:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sealing underside edge of counter top

How often do you spill so much water on the counter that it runs off the edge? On the rare occasion when it happens, if you wipe it up reasonably quickly rather than letting it sit for hours, you should not have any problems with the countertop disintegrating for a very long time. The suggestions of varnish, paint, etc. are appropriate answers to your question; I just think it's an unnecessary concern.
DrewE 10/08/19 02:41pm General RVing Issues
RE: Removing small chair by door in class C.

It would be most helpful if you could provide some more background information, such as picture of this little chair, the make and model of class C, that sort of thing. It's possible that there may be screws or bolts under the carpeting. It may also have nuts or bolts you could get to from underneath (or from a storage compartment), or several other ways of being mounted. Sometimes there are other things integral to the RV underneath the furniture; the couch in my class C, for example, is basically built on the case of an outside storage compartment, so removing it would not leave a flat floor where it was.
DrewE 10/06/19 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

All this helped quiet a bit, I only have a slight problem now when Im driving directly behind an 18 wheeler and he overtakes me. Things get better and normal as the truck pulsl away from me allowing more space between us. To some extent, I suspect that's just a plain unavoidable consequence of driving what is more or less a good sized sail down the road. You inevitably will get pushed around at least a little bit by swirling air currents. My Honda Fit is also noticeably influenced by air currents from passing trucks and busses. It's a much smaller vehicle, of course, but still has a fair bit of surface area compared to its weight and overall ground plan dimensions (by which I mean the width and length as seen from below or above).
DrewE 10/04/19 02:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Suspension upgrade disappointment.

Definitely check the tie rod ends and ball joints; my first guess would be the tie rod ends. If you have a steering damper (I think that may just be on the E450 from the factory), see if it is worn also--or if it looks worn or leaky, just replace it as they are not all that expensive or hard to replace. When I replaced mine I discovered that it seemed to have an air bubble in it, presumably from having some of the fluid leak out over time, which caused it to be elastic for small movements rather than damping them out...and replacing it had a noticeable positive impact on the steering feel.
DrewE 10/04/19 10:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: New York City

I just got back from a nearly week-long trip to NYC, as it turns out. I spent two nights at Floyd Bennett Field in Brooklyn, my second time camping there, and then three nights at Croton Point as Floyd Bennett Field is only opening their campground on weekends as it's the end of their season. I'm not sure I understand the logic there entirely, and the web site is less than crystal clear that they do that, but nevertheless it's what is going on. Liberty Harbor, which I haven't actually stayed at, is the most convenient location to most of the sights in the city. It's also the most expensive of the three, and has the smallest camp sites/parking spaces. Floyd Bennett Field is very affordable ($30 a night, or I think less if you're retired), has few ammenities (dry camping at the edges of a very large concrete pad, a former sea plane base, with a dump station available), and requires more or less interesting city driving to get an RV to. The most straightforward route, via the Belt Parkway, is limited to passenger cars as are all the parkways. From the northish direction, at least, perhaps the best route is to take I-278 to Flatbush Avenue and drive Flatbush clear across Brooklyn; that's at least how I've done it, and survived to tell the story. From the campground at Floyd Bennet Field, it's about a fifteen minute or so walk to the bus stop at the Ryan Visitor Center, and then very roughly an hour to central Manhattan via bus and subway. The busses run every twenty minutes. An unlimited MetroCard covers both busses and the subway; the seven day variant is $33 and in my opinion a very good bargain. Croton Point is much easier to drive to, being well north of the city and barely off of US 9. It's a 20 or so minute walk from the campground to the MetroLink train station, and about an hour train ride to Grand Central Station and about $12 each way (for non-retired persons). Taking the train to Marble Hill instead is about half as much money, and then a longish subway ride can get one to central Manhattan, at the expense of maybe twenty additional minutes. The campground is easily the nicest of the three; the sites (at least many of them) are full-hookup, and have vegetation between them and generally what one would expect from a public park campground. As was mentioned, it's around $60 a night. Personally, I rather like Floyd Bennett Field, but it's not for everyone. I would definitely suggest passing on it if you don't feel adept at driving your RV in rather tight traffic or haven't yet gotten a great feel for where it is in relation to you when you're driving. Checking the clearances for whatever route you need to take to get there may also be important; I think the limit was 12' something at the interstate exit. (I don't recall any low clearances on Flatbush Ave itself.)
DrewE 10/02/19 06:06pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Philly visit?

A lot depends on your interests, of course. I think one day would be plenty for Independence Hall for me. However, two days was most definitely far from excessive for the Art Institute, which is up there among the largest and nicest art museums in the country.
DrewE 10/02/19 05:46pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Battery Hold downs

I use nylon tie-down straps, in combination with some homebuilt painted wooden blocks shaped to guide the straps over the tops of the batteries without fouling the vent caps etc. It is not a very good idea to omit the hold down, as much to ensure they cannot short out on the vehicle frame in a collision as anything.
DrewE 09/27/19 09:02pm Class A Motorhomes
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