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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 709 matches.

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RE: Renting an RV in Alaska

Local enquiry about the unpaved highways is never a bad idea. However, there are plenty of times non-four-wheel-drive vehicles can travel most of them, or at least most of the major ones. I drove my class C over the Dalton Highway, the Taylor Highway, and the Edgerton Highway without incident. The Dalton was definitely hard on the RV due to roughness and some dust and mud; I'm not sure I would go over it again, certainly not too many times, for fear of cabinets and things shaking loose and generally wearing out prematurely, but the road itself was certainly nowhere near impassable. That said, in adverse weather conditions, it could well be entirely different. There are, of course, several national parks in Alaska that simply are not accessible by road. Travel to and from Alaska by road is not the crazy adventure it once was; it's a long drive, and has spans with little in the way of services, but one certainly would not need four wheel drive or anything like that to make it (barring adverse winter conditions). I don't think you will find much more beautiful and extraordinary scenery elsewhere than there is in Alaska and western Canada.
DrewE 12/12/19 12:17pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: VAN CAMPER COVERSION

If the channels are on the interior of the vehicle, not exposed to the elements, Romex (NM-H) in flex tubing or otherwise protected against abrasion and cutting and properly secured against flexing/vibration is fine and typical. If exposed outside, I'd probably prefer EMT with wires suitable for wet locations or liquid tight tubing or similar. Generally RV 120V wiring is not run where it is exposed to the elements if it can at all be avoided (e.g. for everything other than connecting to a built-in generator).
DrewE 12/10/19 10:00pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Route to Florida

I95 in MA and CT (and presumably RI) can have a fair bit of traffic; in my experience it usually moves along okay, but there's a lot of vehicles on the road. Not my favorite driving to be sure. I'd probably take I-90 (toll) to I-88 to I-81 rather than I-287 and I-78. I-84 through Connecticut is not bad now (there is still some construction going on, but the worst of it is past and the road in decent shape); through NY and PA it's pretty rough pavement, at least as of a year or so ago when I was last on it. Depending where in Maine you are, it might also be sensible to take e.g. US2 across to Montpelier, Vermont, then I-89 to I-189 to US7 south to VT 22A to US4, into New York state, and 9N to 149 to I-87 south and continue on however seems appropriate. Not the fastest route, and not perfectly flat (you're going east to west in northern New England, after all), but nice roads and not bad traffic.
DrewE 12/10/19 01:17pm Roads and Routes
RE: Converter Panel "Latch"

Here is what your looking for. They are off the charts expensive so be careful when installing.$3.50 each is expensive? Expensive yes, unaffordable probably not. But those latches probably cost less than a penny each to make. Even if they were a dime each $3.50 is crazy expensive for what you get. It's like the cup of coffee or tea or a glass of coke at a restaurant; you're mainly paying for the service rather than the product. In this case, it's the packaging, inventorying and warehousing, order fulfilment, etc. that cost a bunch. $3.50 really doesn't seem out of line to me for a relatively low-volume specialized doodad.
DrewE 12/10/19 08:54am Tech Issues
RE: Extension cords

Also if by chance there is only a 15 amp breaker in the panel change it to a 20 amp. DO NOT do this. The only reason there would be a 15A breaker in the panel is that the house wiring connected to it is 14 gauge wiring, and "upgrading" to a 20A breaker would be contrary to the electric code and arguably a fire hazard. Who has a code allowing 14 gauge wire? You couldn't run but one plug in on it. Our last home built in 1970 had 10 gauge solid wiring. The National Electric Code permits 14 gauge wire (for 15A circuits), and several outlets on those circuits, for some areas of the house. 20A circuits seem to be a little more common around here (with 12 gauge wire), particularly for new construction, but by no means universal. I had not previously heard of houses with 10 gauge wire being generally used for convenience outlets. That would be very rare indeed around these parts; the only time I can think of it being likely would be where there is a very long wire run to the circuit, say perhaps to supply a shed that's clear across the back yard.
DrewE 12/10/19 12:21am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fridge Doesnt work on Propane

Thanks for the update; glad it's working now. For other people who might read this thread, besides the various possibilities listed, some fridges have a shut-off valve as part of the burner assembly, and if that valve is shut off the fridge won't work on propane. On mine it looks more like a thumbscrew/setscrew than a typical valve.
DrewE 12/09/19 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Deadbolt suggestions

I'd go for a surface mount residential deadbolt (sometimes called a rim lock or, for certain designs a Segal lock). It should be easier to mount on a thin door than a tubular or mortise lock. Give a little thought to how you would get out in the event of a fire. You have very little time to do that in an RV fire, much less than in a typical house fire, and fumbling with a key to open the door could be problematic.
DrewE 12/09/19 06:36pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Extension cords

Also if by chance there is only a 15 amp breaker in the panel change it to a 20 amp. DO NOT do this. The only reason there would be a 15A breaker in the panel is that the house wiring connected to it is 14 gauge wiring, and "upgrading" to a 20A breaker would be contrary to the electric code and arguably a fire hazard.
DrewE 12/09/19 01:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Extension cords

I agree with the others who say to get a premade extension cord. Standard Romex is not suitable for outdoor use (it's not rated for damp locations, much less wet ones), nor for places where it's subject to physical damage, nor for use where it gets bent and unbent repeatedly. A 12 gauge extension cord and a 15-30A adapter will probably cost no more than the Romex and the plug and socket to build one yourself; in either case, you're paying mostly for the copper, and it's the same amount in either case.
DrewE 12/09/19 09:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Route to Florida

My usual route is basically Interstate 81 to Interstate 77. Interstate 81 does somewhat go through the mountains, but the terrain is really more like rolling hills than significant grades. Interstate 77 descending Fancy Gap is a significant grade and can be a little trecherous at times due to foggy conditions. They have variable speed limits for that reason. Taking reasonable care and properly downshifting and such are necessary, but if done it's a perfectly good route and in my opinion much preferable to needlessly going through NYC, Baltimore, Washington DC, etc.
DrewE 12/09/19 08:24am Roads and Routes
RE: Flattest routes from GA To Nashville,TN

yep! Had to alternate days with my brother. We only had one pair of shoes between us. ;) Let me guess: on odd days, you hopped on your left foot and he hopped on his right foot; and on even days, you hopped on your right foot and he on his left?
DrewE 12/09/19 08:17am Roads and Routes
RE: Furnace running very hot...

I just pulled up the pdf installation guide and read this... Adjust ducting installation to obtain an air temperature rise of 100°F-130°F. Also see air flow check section. Sounds like you're right on spec, then, with a bit over a 110 degree temperature rise (68 to 180 degrees).
DrewE 12/07/19 07:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace running very hot...

I agree with needing an actual temperature measurement. IR Thermometer https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71c5DtsEW-L._AC_SL1500_.jpg width=160 Very handy gizmos, but not good for measuring air temperatures; they measure surface temperatures based on infrared radiation from the surface. A "normal" thermometer is the right tool to measure air temperature.
DrewE 12/07/19 07:55am Tech Issues
RE: Lots of good Football Games Today/Tonight!

Today is also the first day of the Pop Warner superbowl, and that tournament also includes some really great football by young athletes. I like seeing them play some styles of football that are no longer common in professional or college games, but still can work very effectively.
DrewE 12/07/19 07:50am Around the Campfire
RE: Continental Tires PSI rising 20

Pressure increase is directly related to the air temperature (and the outside air pressure); it's a simple matter of physics and has nothing to do with the brand of tire. Assuming basically dry air, it very nearly obeys the ideal gas law. Water vapor causes some deviations from the ideal behavior as at typical tire temperatures and pressures water doesn't quite respond as an ideal gas. Maybe the air you have in the tires isn't particularly dry. If you've driven up a mountain, the increase in altitude will cause a small increase in measured tire pressure since the atmospheric pressure goes down a bit. It's not a huge difference, less than 5 psi for any road you're likely to encounter.
DrewE 12/06/19 09:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Look what I found at the dollar store...

Drew, do you have any idea of how much that little camper and trailer is worth unopened in its original package ? :B As a matter of fact, I do, at least roughly speaking. It has a street price of about $1.00 (plus tax) these days in the original, unopened package. :C
DrewE 12/06/19 09:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Look what I found at the dollar store...

Should go over big in Australia,being that the door is on the correct side for them :B You likely can't see it in the pictures, but the steering wheel is on the left side, so that would be not so great in Australia. There is an additional entry door on the back of the unit that looks as though it would run afoul of the trailer hitch pin, though in real life the hitch pin would be relatively smaller. Evidently it's not based on any specific actual RV, but rather a rough imagined composite of several...and that's plenty good enough for my keychain.
DrewE 12/06/19 02:13pm Class C Motorhomes
Look what I found at the dollar store...

After keeping my eyes open for something like it for about five years, I finally found this...and at the dollar store even, so plenty affordable. https://i.imgur.com/H7omwyCl.jpg And this is why I was looking for one of them: https://i.imgur.com/a61hRcQl.jpg Merry Christmas to me! (Interestingly, the die-cast metal part is basically just the cab and a sort of backbone along the bottom of the toy, while the plastic part is the whole camper body. That struck me as an unusually realistic construction technique!)
DrewE 12/06/19 01:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: V 10 mpg

Been thinking about getting a newer class C for some time, seems the most common 24 foot or under on the used market is the V10. After following this thread and reading about repair costs on the V10, The community has convinced me to keep my Toyota V6 until it falls apart like some Keystone Cops movie. I would like to have more power so will be watching for a Toyota 3.4 donor vehicle. Repair costs? The Ford van chassis are not particularly trouble-prone nor expensive to repair. I mean, it's not like vehicles in general are cheap to repair, but on the scale of things, the E series is pretty simple to work on overall and doesn't have parts made out of depleted unobtanium. The V10 engine and the Ford transmissions are generally quite reliable when given basic care and feeding. With a now over 20 year old class C, that I've owned for about five years and have driven from Vermont to Alaska and back, among other trips, the chassis related repairs that I've had to make have consisted of brakes (old calipers get sticky), ball joints (permanent lubrication is less permanent when the rubber booties give out), shocks, and a steering tie rod that had worn ends--all the standard sorts of things that one might expect from a used vehicle, and none extraordinarily expensive to get repaired. The engine itself runs beautifully. I certainly can appreciate the appeal of the old Toyota class C's; they have a definite charm, despite (or perhaps partly because of) some significant limitations. I'm certainly not one to suggest upgrading without reason, nor to recommend against keeping what one has and is satisfied with. I just think it's mistaken to write off the Ford chassis for some impression of unreliability and expensive repairs when that's not well grounded in reality.
DrewE 12/04/19 09:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tea Kettle

Most tea kettles are right around 1.5 to 2 quarts in size. Finding much smaller (with a whistle) is nearly impossible, from what I've seen. Le Creuset makes a 1.25 quart kettle. If you've electricity available, an electric kettle may be a reasonable option; they're not necessarily smaller physically speaking, but many will automatically shut off when the water reaches a boil, which does not take too long. A Sunbeam Hot Shot is another very convenient little electric water heater gizmo for a single cup; quick and easy and effective. If you're camping without hookups, these are of course less attractive.
DrewE 12/03/19 09:52am General RVing Issues
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