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 > Your search for posts made by 'DrewE' found 622 matches.

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RE: Television - 12 volt or 120?

Modern TVs don't use a lot of power. A small inverter would be a perfectly fine way to go; it won't run down your battery overly quickly. That also makes it easier to hook up e.g. a blu-ray player or game system or satellite receiver if you wish to do so in the future. (It's perhaps worth mentioning that many of the newer game consoles use more power than you might at first suspect, often roughly around 100 watts, more than many television sets.) Of course, if your television happens to have an external 12V power brick, it does make a lot of sense to power it directly.
DrewE 08/04/20 08:54am Tech Issues
RE: Battery question

As this is the "Class A Motorhomes" forum, I think it's pretty safe to assume without further information that the question is in relation to a motorhome. Yes, in motorhomes the engine alternator charges the house battery while en route. If that's not happening, then something is broken. On some (comparatively rare) units, there might be a switch to disable this charging, though I can't really see much of any point in doing so.
DrewE 08/04/20 08:49am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Steering stabilizer

Do you have an E450 chassis or an E350 (or something else)? I certainly agree with the recommendations of making sure the alignment is correct and the tires are properly inflated. It would also be well to verify that the tie rod ends and ball joints are tight, which I think they ought to be checking when doing the alignment. I think the E450s all come with a steering damper from Ford: basically a horizontally mounted shock absorber for the tie rod. If it's worn, replacing it with an equivalent or OEM part (not necessarily a full-fledged steering stabilizer with spring centering) can make a noticeable difference. It's an easy part to replace: readily accessible, with just a couple of bolts to hold it in. On my motorhome, when I bought it from the previous owner, the damper was definitely shot and had leaked some of the oil charge out over the years. When I replaced it, I discovered that the old one would act like a spring for small displacements (due to the air bubble compressing) and like a damper for larger displacements (with the remaining oil circulating as designed). Needless to say, that caused a bit of odd steering feel. One other suggestion: when driving, keep your focus as far down the road as practical. It's easy to overcorrect when driving a motorhome or other long-wheelbase vehicle if you aren't particularly used to them. Steering corrections take longer to have an effect, and the result--doubly so if you're focusing on the spot right in front of you--is a tendency to overdo them and end up overshooting towards the opposite direction. Making small adjustments and looking far down the road are the solution. (Looking farther down the road is likewise advisable to give yourself plenty of time and room to brake when that's needed.)
DrewE 08/03/20 09:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Smoke alarm

The wires attached to the smoke detector are (almost certainly) short, maybe 6", pigtails, and are joined to the RV wiring in the wall or ceiling. You should be able to pull them enough to access the joints and detach there. In my RV they used wire nuts, taped to prevent them from working loose, for all those sorts of connections; but there are a few possible methods that could be done. (I know some will say that wire nuts are no good for RVs, but so far all the wire nut connections in mine have been trouble-free.) As BB alludes to, make sure you insulate the loose wires somehow or another so they can't short out.
DrewE 08/02/20 08:11pm Tech Issues
RE: DeWalt vs Milwaukee

Lithium batteries are a substantial improvement over NiCd's for these sorts of cordless tools.
DrewE 08/02/20 07:58pm Around the Campfire
RE: DeWalt vs Milwaukee

As a homeowner-level user, I've been sastisfied with a fair few different Ryobi cordless tools, and it's not hard to get their batteries on quite good sales from time to time. (It's the same parent company as Milwaukee, though of course the tools are presumably built to somewhat different specs and price points.) I doubt you'd have any complaints about any of the major brands in practice, in general. There probably are one or two tools with questionable design details or significant weaknesses from most any brand, but they're the exception rather than the rule.
DrewE 08/02/20 03:17pm Around the Campfire
RE: Pulling more than 50 amps ?

is a semi truck with dual trailers, traveling at 50 mph, really a 100 mph truck because there are two trailers of 50 mph each?) Incorrect analogy. The correct analogy is "is a semi truck with dual 50,000 pound trailers a 50,000 pound load or a 100,000 pound load?" Trailer "L1" has 50,000 pounds, trailer "L2" has 50,000 pounds. The receiving destination (the RV) gets 100,000 pounds delivered. Pounds of load moved in the trailers would be more nearly to watts, I believe, rather than amperes. A 240V 50A circuit (split phase or not) certainly delivers twice the power as a 120V 50A circuit, but it does not deliver twice the current. In both cases, you're getting your 50 Coulombs per second. Similarly, the dual trailer truck is doing twice the work per unit time as a single trailer truck, and so delivering twice the power to moving the load; but, of course, it is not going twice as fast.
DrewE 08/02/20 12:30am Tech Issues
RE: Travel into Canada

How do you travel into Canada if you have a handgun in your RV You'd be doing so illegally, at least in the vast majority of cases. It's not worth trying. Either leave the handgun behind, when visiting Canada; or if that is not acceptable, keep out and miss out on their wonderful country.
DrewE 08/01/20 03:44pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Losing home & need to immediately relocate to truck camper

If you're traveling enough that gas mileage is a significant concern (i.e. a significant part of your budget), you probably would save money by using an efficient car and staying in motels, many of which have internet access available that's at least as good as what is found at most campgrounds...and often a good bit better. Anyhow, some advantages of a truck camper: one less thing to register (in nearly every state), you can get into more out-of-the-way places particularly if your truck is four wheel drive, easier maneuvering in tight places generally. Some disadvantages: they're tight, and due to the limited space have limited capacities for water, propane, etc. Storage for stuff for full-time living is quite limited. Some advantages of a trailer: more space, in some cases much much more space; you can easily leave the trailer at a camp site and take the tow vehicle to town or wherever you need to go; easier to climb in and out. Some disadvantages: you have a trailer to maintain; if it's not a fifth wheel, or if you're on the east or west coast, you cannot legally tow a second trailer; somewhat more effort to set up or break camp, in general. Some advantages of a motorhome: Very easy to set up and break camp; you have ready access to the kitchen, bathroom, etc. while en route; you can usually tow something else if the need comes up. Disadvantages: chassis maintenance costs (tires, for instance--not too bad for most class C's, significant for a large diesel pusher motorhome); not great fuel mileage; you have to take your RV with you when driving into town or whatever, even if you aren't otherwise breaking camp, unless you tow a second vehicle. For $15K, you might be able to get a (well) used but basically sound and fully functioning, probably class C, motorhome with a bit of shopping around; or a trailer in reasonable shape and a suitable tow vehicle. For the latter, it might be worth looking into full-size vans for the tow vehicle; many are (or can be) equipped to tow a pretty good sized trailer, and have adequate payload capacity to handle the tongue weight and also carry a useful load inside at the same time. A fair few pickup trucks and SUVs, especially the smaller ones, tend to have limited payload such that you can tow a trailer or carry some stuff, but not much of both at the same time. As a general observation, pretty much any vehicle that can serve as one's house, with kitchen and bathroom facilities and so forth, is going to be pretty big and heavy, and hence neither inconspicuous nor fuel efficient.
DrewE 08/01/20 03:34pm Beginning RVing
RE: How do I get a colder freezer?

Have you checked the condition of the door seals for the freezer compartment? I'd imagine an imperfect seal would cause a warm freezer (and more rapid frost build-up).
DrewE 08/01/20 10:30am Tech Issues
RE: Pulling more than 50 amps ?

On an RV that has zero 240 volt appliances is there a reason to have the tied 50 amp breaker instead of two separate 50 amp breakers? The National Electric Code requires it. One of the main reasons is so that the socket is completely de-energized when the breaker is switched off, rather than being left--possibly unexpectedly--partly energized and posing a hazard to someone who may be working on it. That's arguably less of a concern when the breaker(s) are nine inches away and in the same enclosure than, for example, when they're on a different floor of a house for the range receptacle, but the concept remains. It's also best to cut all the power to the receptacle in the event of a fault where, rather by definition, it's not known what may be wrong and how dangerous it is. If a person mowing grass should happen to absent-mindedly chop up your shore power cord, it would be really good to shut off both legs even if only one happened to short out. (As to whether it's a 100A service of any sort, I'll just ask this: is a semi truck with dual trailers, traveling at 50 mph, really a 100 mph truck because there are two trailers of 50 mph each?)
DrewE 08/01/20 08:48am Tech Issues
RE: Bean bag chair for the coach.

I'm not using it in my motorhome (my particular one is way too big for that), but I'm very satisfied with the Xorbee chair and ottoman that I've had for quite a few years. It's super comfy. They do have a variety of sizes and shapes, and perhaps one of the smaller ones would work for you. (Being foam filled, they are of course somewhat compressible and malleable to fit through tightish spaces...although it can be cumbersome and take a certain amount of effort.)
DrewE 08/01/20 08:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Low Voltage on One 50A Leg

I suspect what the OP is seeing is an issue in the campgrounds electrical system coming from MORE 30A 120V usage.. Most pedestals will by default have the 30A 120V outlet on the SAME "Line" and most likely that default IS L1, and more folks will be hooked up to the 30A outlets.. Hence the reason OP is seeing the voltage mismatch.. Given that the pedestals would presumably all be wired identically, it would be very odd for a campground not to wire up half the pedestals in the loop with the two legs swapped from the other half of the pedestals, such that the 30A sockets would tend to balance each other out. There's nothing other than an arbitrarily chosen convention that makes one particular leg L1 rather than L0, after all.
DrewE 07/31/20 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator left running with doors open for 2 weeks !

The water that collected is good evidence that the fridge was working properly--the cooling unit caused it to condense and collect. (It also suggests that the drip pan or its drain tube may possibly not be arranged properly or might be plugged up, assuming your fridge has them.) I don't think you have anything to worry about. Incidentally, 3 degrees off of level is a quite obvious slope, around a 5% grade.
DrewE 07/31/20 06:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Low Voltage on One 50A Leg

Such imbalances can also be caused by poor neutral connections; when the neutral has a higher resistance than it should, its voltage tends to float based on the relative loads on the two legs. (The extreme version of this is an open neutral, which generally causes lots of problems and lots of expense in a short period of time.) If you're seeing such voltage variations pretty consistently, it would be advisable to verify that your RV's power inlet connections, transfer switch connections, etc. are in good shape and properly tightened down.
DrewE 07/31/20 03:00pm Tech Issues
RE: No transmission stick

Is it something vaguely like this? Various vehicles use wire rope rather than flat steel tape for the transmission dipstick, presumably because the routing from the top of the engine to the guts of the transmission is somewhat circuitous and a flat dipstick (which can only bend in one dimension) would get hung up on the way down.
DrewE 07/30/20 10:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Class C

I don't think it's necessary at all for you to clear off the counters before you drive off; indeed, in my experience, they're very effetively self-clearing while one travels! However, if you don't care to store your stuff randomly on the floor, then putting it away before departing is necessary. Most things I just keep stored in cupboards, even when stopped for awhile. That makes putting away the few other things a good bit quicker. I will leave the odd dirty dish in the kitchen sink while en route and that has not been problematic thus far (beyond rattling around).
DrewE 07/30/20 10:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Roadside Food stops?

I've not generally had trouble finding places to get food where parking is reasonably available. Between fixing stuff myself in the motorhome, or getting prepared items from large grocery stores, or stopping at restaurants that have good parking available (which includes most in or next to strip malls), I haven't found it a big problem in practice. Being not too picky helps, of course. Being able to make or reheat one's own food is a big advantage. A can of soup and a sandwich makes for a substantial lunch that doesn't take much time to prepare, nor costs a lot of money.
DrewE 07/30/20 10:42pm Roads and Routes
RE: Coachmen Leprechaun fresh water tank

The only other possibility is, Your Toilet water valve dump blade was stuck slightly open and when you were filling the Fresh Water, the water was going into the Black tank thru the toilet. Maybe that is why it took a long time to fill the Fresh tank. Doug Solid theory but the dump valve being stuck slightly open " happens quite often " shouldn't allow the toilet to continue to flush but must admit......I'm stumped if hose was indeed hooked to fresh water. Doug's talking about the flush valve in the toilet, which also actuates the slide/flapper thingy "dumping" the toilet bowl's contents into the black tank, rather than the black tank dump valve, for emptying the black tank. Indeed, the latter would not in any way cause water to enter the black tank via the toilet, as you note.
DrewE 07/30/20 09:00am Tech Issues
RE: " observe " TT frig from afar

Best idea is probably as you suggested, toss it and start over, although I may leave the frig on so it will ( hopefully ) already be cold when we return. Won't hurt it to run and it doesn't use much juice. The fridge may well be using more juice than you realize. If it's an RV absorption fridge, it likely uses around 3 - 5 kWh per day, depending of course on the ambient temperature, the size of the fridge, etc. If it's a residential compressor fridge, it's closer to 1 or 1.5 kWh per day. It seems awfully wasteful to me to run the fridge empty for the whole time you're gone just to have it be cold when you get back. It's more sensible in my estimation to turn it on when you get back and let it cool while you unpack, do laundry, sort through junk mail, and go grocery shopping.
DrewE 07/30/20 08:50am General RVing Issues
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