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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 197 matches.

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RE: Onan 4000 MicroQuiet - Quasi No Start (new carb needed?)

The float bowl on most carburetors must be vented to the atmosphere to work properly. From your description, it sounds like your float bowl vent might be plugged or the float itself (needle and seat) is stuck. 160 hours use in 5 years is low, IMO. Is this genny being exercised regularly? (I suggest 20 minutes, once a month, every month) Chum lee
Chum lee 09/23/20 08:59am Tech Issues
RE: 2002 E.450 c.class starting issues

Check for pending diagnostic codes. YES! Get a fault code reader and do this first before you waste money on a "genie in a can." Chum lee
Chum lee 09/20/20 09:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Emergency HELP Please F53 Fuel problems

WE are stranded in Grants Pass. We broke down near the bottom of Sexton Pass on I5 on the Saturday of the Laborday Weekend. No Tow Trucks were available and we had to stay in the rig overnight 4 feet from the slow lane on a curve! We were towed at 11 AM Sunday morning back into Grants Pass and dropped at the Walmart and now safe. There are few tow rigs available in some areas and few shops or mobile techs or shops that can handle a large RV. This situation is exacerbated on long holiday weekends! Vehicle: 1999 Holiday Rambler Vacationer F53 gas Triton v10, 1/3 tank of gas. Prior owner at some point installed a frame mounted aux fuel pump before and attached to the filter. Conditions: Driving 55 MPH and pulling a dolly with a Hyundai Tucson on 9/5/2020 at about 2:30 PM and 99 degrees. What happened? We don't yet know what failed. I crawled under and believed the aux pump failed and found a replacement. I installed it in the extreme heat, it did not fix the problem. It would start but did not continue running. FUEL or Pump in tank failure? We found a single mobile tech that was available, there were no other options. He showed up later Sunday and dropped the tank, the pump was non-op. We found one at a parts store and it was installed. It didn't seem to run any different. The tech questioned his install and dropped the tank again. Everything seemed as it should. Sunday he scanned and looked for codes and a few senors that were questionable were replaced as a precaution, and had no impact or change. 2 working pumps may have also overfuled the systems. We tried both and it runs really bad with the frame rail pump installed. UNSURE what to think. Tuesday morning after checking various connections and replacing a suspect damaged fuel pressure regulator we removed the frame rail secondary pump! We drove with the engine cover off and had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to the fuel rail and it had the correct pressures and the engine ran perfect! Up and down hills in town for about 30 minutes and no problems! You could watch the fuel pressure rise on the hills as should be expected. We put the engine cover on and went for a drive on I5. It immediately had a problem and under load lost pressure. Everything was good with the engine cover off and with it on there was more heat and had an instant effect on drivability. SIDENOTE we only had about 1/3rd tank of gas, could a pump that's not fully submerged overheat and cause a loss of fuel pressure under load? Due to the fires we are stuck. The 2 week trip we planned is canceled and now we are trying to get back home. We may have to abandon our RV and store it since we don't trust driving it home 400 miles away. Does anyone have any helpful suggestions? Thanks IMO, you are dealing with a bunch of effing morons. I drive the same chassis as you. It DOES NOT NEED AN AUXILIARY FUEL PUMP. Any fault codes? This is a band-aid solution to fix a simple problem. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/10/20 09:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class C Specifications

I weighed our rig empty with nothing that wasn't bolted down, no people, no water, no waste, but did have a full 55 gallons of fuel and 40 pounds of propane. It weighed in at 9,920. Loaded up during our heaviest trip, full fresh water, two adults, full fuel, the rig weighed 11480, just 20 pounds shy of the chassis limit. And it sounds like it worked out just fine. Per the photo in your sig (it's a beautiful rig) have a great trip! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/08/20 11:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: How do you pay your bills on the road on extended trips?

How do you pay your bills while on the road for an extended trip of a month or longer? We pay our bills online from home but are leery of say logging in at a Starbucks on the road to pay bills. What's a secure way to do it? Only use secure connections for banking. If you feel better about it, use a national bank (like Wells Fargo, B of A, etc.) and go to a local branch to conduct business. DO NOT stay online at a Starbucks, Micky D's or any other public WiFi's for any length of time. If you have no other way, conduct your business, then log off immediately, when you are done. Use current software and keep your security updates current. Do not store account numbers, passwords, or user ID's on your phone/computer. Google: Stingray Chum lee
Chum lee 09/08/20 09:03pm General RVing Issues
RE: Is it a good time to sell?

For those of you who are out and about this year, and/or buying or selling, is the demand for RVs of all types really up as much as I've been hearing? And are there more people out there than ever? I've been thinking of selling my class c. It has nothing to do with the virus or affordability. I've just found that my interests have slowly changed and I just am not using it much anymore. My tastes have changed more to "week at the cabin" type of trips rather than traveling. I've been thinking about this for over a year and wasn't in any real rush to make a decision, but if the demand and prices are up, maybe now is the time. Every deal is different. (condition, location, price, etc.) IMO, demand is quite high right now. If your RV is in good condition, it's priced right, and you market it (advertise it) effectively, it will sell. Don't wait! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/08/20 11:50am General RVing Issues
RE: How to get rid of soap streaks after washing a TT?

At the age of your trailer, what you may be seeing are oxidized particles that are coming off the roof/sides and not being rinsed off fully (before they dry) rather than soap. Unfortunately as RV's age, the exterior surfaces degrade due to UV light and they require more polishing, waxing, (elbow grease) to come clean. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/08/20 11:42am General RVing Issues
RE: Class C Specifications

IMO, the best way to figure your load carrying capacity is to weigh the unit dry and compare it to the published GVWR. So, . . . . how do you do that if you don't currently own it? Find someone (hopefully with some experience) in a campground (or elsewhere social media, online, etc.) with a similar vehicle to the one you are considering buying (Class, manufacturer, length, slides, engine, etc.) and ask them what their unit weighs empty/dry. If they have been driving it for a while, chances are they will know. It doesn't have to be exact, just being within 300-500 lbs. is good enough for you to decide if the prospective vehicle is right for you. Hopefully that is acceptable to you. Then, if/when you buy your new unit, one of your first stops should be a scale. Now you will KNOW! IMO, unlike the aviation industry (I'm a pilot) the RV manufacturers do this intentionally so that you WON"T know what your usable load is. Many people buy RV's not realizing their load limitations and find out later, . . . . after the sale. Big surprise/mistake! For example: My current 30' Class A gasser on a Ford F53 chassis has a GVWR of 18,000 lbs. So. as a new buyer, . . , . as I was driving it home, (for the first time) empty (OK well with a full tank of gas, a full tank of propane, and me, . . . . . at 205 lbs) I stopped by my favorite recycle yard (they know me well) and I asked them to weigh it. Answer: 15,560 lbs. So now I know my usable load. 2,440 lbs. (that's a good number) IMO, in most Class C's, it won't be that much. DON'T DRIVE OVERLOADED! Chum lee
Chum lee 09/08/20 11:30am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Driving a 33' Class A

One nice advantage of driving a Class A is that you sit about 3 feet higher so, IMO, you can see (forward) much better than in a standard Class C. The larger more vertical windshield helps too. Chum lee
Chum lee 09/07/20 06:50pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Belts on 1994 Ford V10 engine on Fleetwood Southwind

You could either go to a Ford truck parts web site or to a Ford truck dealer, or any good auto parts store and give them your vehicle info and ask for what you want. (serpentine belt) Then see what they bring you. As others have said, you probably don't have a V-10, more likely a 460 (7.3 L) V-8. Or just look under the doghouse at the front of the engine. A Ford Truck dealer may not be able to help you because of the age of your vehicle. www.autohausaz.com Use 1994 Ford F350 with 7.3 L gas V-8 A place to start. You may also need a belt tensioner and idler pulley. Verify the length of the belt before you order. There are several different sizes. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/31/20 02:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 1978 Chevy Itasca for $4800

Make a counter offer, tell the owner for a few hundred you'll get off his hands and out of his driveway. It could be a great winter project if you have a space to put it inside to work on it. I agree. It's overpriced. BUT, . . . . a winter project, . . . . NO! . . . . IMO, it will be several winters. (springs, summers, falls too) Chum lee
Chum lee 08/30/20 06:36pm General RVing Issues
RE: 1978 Chevy Itasca for $4800

Per the Craigslist ad, it's actually in fairly decent shape for that age, BUT, that said and at that age, pay no attention to the mileage. (in that era, the mileage of a used vehicle was easily . . . . . adjustable) Look closely at the interior roof line above the bed. (above the cab) Water damage. If you have lots of enthusiasm, (per the ad, the current owners ran out) are very handy, very patient, have lots of tools, lots of time, lots of cash, a place to work on it, and are looking for a never ending project that is often unusable, often unreliable, and you LOVE the idea of restoring a polluting piece of history that gets horrible gas mileage, then jump right in. If not, move on. IMO, the current owners have already spent a lot of money on this project, and then just gave up realizing that they were in "overwhelm" mode. Watch the movie "The Money Pit(1986) " starring Tom Hanks and Shelly Long. If you buy this vehicle, this is a prelude of what to expect. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/30/20 12:11pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cracked frame Heartland/Lippert - Warranty but no help!

I agree with Doug. The repair document(s) appear to be prepared by Lippert. Clearly, Heartland/Lippert are both aware of the fault(s), hence, the repair documents exist. However, in the world of engineering, sometimes one company gives another company, (usually a supplier) whats called a "performance spec." These are general specifications which lack detail and require the supplier to provide some design work. If that's the case here, both companies could share some partial responsibility. Just a guess. Was this RV built AND sold initially in the USA? As I understand, it's now in Canada. Without reading the terms of the warranty, there could be "across the border" legal issues which are further described the the text of the warranty. Per the drawings, Lippert provides a part number for the repair parts. If you could get the repair parts package in full, I wouldn't have problem finding a certified welder to install them. (you should be fully reimbursed for your expenses in doing this) This isn't rocket science. You will be possibly opening a can of worms should there be additional issues, but at least you could safely move on from your present stalemate. Good luck to you. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/30/20 10:36am Tech Issues
RE: Ford F53 460 powered fan clutch options?

IMO, it's normal for the clutch to engage at right about max normal temperature range on the gauge. You'll hear the noise. Make sure you have a 50/50 water/ethylene glycol coolant mix. With that mix you should be covered up to about 230F before boil over. If kept stock, Ford trucks generally have very stout cooling systems. Another check you can do is see if there is any lateral/radial play between the clutch shaft and the fan itself. There shouldn't be any. When working properly, the system will function fine at temps up to 212F. If it regularly gets over that, then is the time to worry. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/29/20 12:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cracked frame Heartland/Lippert - Warranty but no help!

Those cracks are from insufficient strength of the structure itself, welding them back up without a LOT of additional metal will result in the same cracks developing in the future, likely out of warranty. Before any changes are made I would recommend you have a licensed engineer have a look at it, if the design is inadequate you will need a lot more than just some welding. Yep! It looks pretty flimsy to me. It would be interesting to see/review Lippert's authorized repair specifications/drawings. In my mind, it's no surprise those "factory" welds cracked. I agree with some additional structural steel reinforcing, otherwise, IMO, those joints will just crack again. Who's going to perform/pay for them is now the question. Good luck! Chum lee
Chum lee 08/29/20 11:51am Tech Issues
RE: F 53 alignment & steer safe

Bringing in our Winnebago on F53 chassis for aligmnent. Some where I read that caster/camber needs to be set different from Ford specs, is that right? Have a Steer safe do they go bad? Does not seem to be doing its job. So, . . . . . why is it you think you need an alignment? Some issues might be: irregular front tire wear, vibration, shuddering, pulling/tracking left/right, wandering, overload, worn tires, worn suspension components, shocks, recent accident damage, etc.. You mention none of those other than you have "Steer Safe." Year, model, mileage, photos of the front tire(s) would be helpful if you expect a meaningful response in this format. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/26/20 09:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Advice needed -90s Tioga

Hi All, I recently looked at 1992 Tioga 23P We love the layout Second owner he has been stored inside all of its life Approximate 50,000 miles on odometer Suspension improvement about 5 years ago While the RV park looks great – Chassis has a few issues Ford e350 Cab ac only blows slightly cold air - it has been converted to new freon... Its burning about 1/4 qt of oil every 400 miles or so, per owner It has no air bags... And steering column has issues where cable is apparently too fragile to wistand any steering wheel telescope adjustments, owner says $400 to repair?? How critical or expensive would the ac issue repair be? What about burning oil? Can steering wheel be replaced easily? We really like this RV, but these issues are stopping us from buying $12k asking price IMO, (without seeing it (you've provided no pictures)) the asking price should be in the $3,000-$5000 range. 50,000 miles is very low, true, but, you are dealing with a 28 year old complex vehicle. IMO, age (current condition) is far more important than miles. I don't understand your comments about the steering wheel. Using a quart of oil every 1,600 miles is no big deal. If this is an R11 to R134 conversion, poor AC performance is expected. Refrigerator? Generator? Rooftop AC? What does the roof look like? Any water leaks, delam? If air bags are truly a major concern, IMO, at $12,000 . . . . . this vehicle is not for you. For reference, in 2011, I bought (my current) 1999 Class A 30' motorhome on a Ford F53 chassis with 32,000 miles on it for $12,000. In 9 years, now at 90,000 miles I've spent more on it (maintenance/repairs) than the purchase price and I do most of the work/repairs myself. No fantasy, just reality. Good luck to you. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/26/20 05:44pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Change gear ratio on 454 class C

I've got 98 coachman class C 454 with 4:11 rears. I want to improve mileage by going to 3:23 gears. Will this work? Thanks IMO, it will work, but you will not save much of anything overall as far as fuel mileage. IMO, here's why. Going from 4.11 to 3.23 is a BIG jump. The engineers pick the axle ratio in an attempt to run the engine close to the max torque point (this is a curve) while at cruising speed (this is a range) while in top gear. Dropping the ratio to 3.23 will cause the transmission to run in lower gears (higher RPM's) while at cruising speed a lot of the time. Even while at cruise speed when you are on level ground. The transmission prefers to be in top gear while cruising which is what most motorhomes do most of the time. If you are like most Class C motorhomes, you will be at or close to max gross weight most of the time. So, the engine needs to spin fast enough to generate enough torque. (horsepower too) If you want to improve fuel economy, slow down, lighten the load, and travel with the wind if you can Chum lee As an afterthought and in agreement with what Phil says below: For example: If you are now running P225x70 R16 tires and change to P245x70 R16 tires this will have the effect of dropping your current 4.11 gears about 5% or down to 4.11 x .95 = 3.90. The corresponding RPM drop will occur in cruise as long as the engine/transmission can handle it. Provided there is clearance in the wheel wells for larger tires, IMO this is a much more conservative, safer approach.
Chum lee 08/24/20 02:14pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Salt water purification

How much fresh water (in gallons) do you need on a daily basis? Is this water for general utility use and/or for drinking? Is the primary source ocean water or some other brackish source? If the quantity is fairly low, (under 5 gallons per day) and you have good sun exposure, space availible, a clean source of water, a solar still may work. (distillation) They are a lot of work/maintenance and temperamental. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/24/20 08:53am General RVing Issues
RE: Salvage class C

vrunner, Years ago when our son was in college, his car got side-swiped and totaled by the driver's insurance company. We got the money for the totaled vehicle, then paid back what they wanted to keep the car. The title never exchanged hands. It remained unchanged. I thought that wasn't right, but that's what happened. In the end, the title was clean, though I don't know what a Carfax report stated. If it's a great deal and you are very handy and up for the challenge, I would go for it as long as the title is not salvage or rebuilt. Like others state, you will have serious insurance troubles. That is the main concern. The title will come back to me clean, in other words it’s my responsibility to change it to a salvage title. The paperwork will come to me to make that happen and the state notified at some point the unit was totaled. I am guessing since a salvage vehicle cannot be registered, the state will eventually suspend the registration, but that is an unknown. Add to that all the **** currently going on (NJ DMV is a hot mess) the title and registration issues seem to be a bigger issue then fixing the unit. Nobody can see the extent of damage to the vehicle but you. Nobody knows your repair skills but you, the tools available to you, your ability to shag/repair parts, the space available to you, or, your time frame. If those are all favorable, this could be a good deal, but, most likely not. Insurance companies generally know when to wash their hands and move on! That said, in +-2002 in California, (I don't know about New Jersey) I once had a car totaled in an accident. I paid off my insurance company, kept the car, and repaired it. The car never changed owners/title and even though it was technically totaled, when I sold it several years later, (now repaired) it still had a clean title. Carfax confirmed this. Chum lee
Chum lee 08/24/20 08:37am Class C Motorhomes
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