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RE: British couple buying an RV in the US

For Georgia you will pay a "sales tax" based on what the county thinks your vehicle is worth. You can get a lower valuation, but that requires getting someone official (repair shop) to write it up and for the county official to approve it, then send it to a higher-up to approve and a week later you get a modified valuation. In Georgia the steps are: there are no steps. If it is a licensed/titled vehicle then you just pay for the new title and pay your tax. They issue you your license plate right there in person and all is good. You only need to have proof of insurance. No inspection is necessary in GA. The "sales tax" is 6% if I remember correctly. certificate if applicable. I have received conflicting info as to paying property tax in South Carolina. I have never heard of "property tax" on non property, but am not from SC. Property is generally just land, not things. You will pay a tax one way or the other. 6% is not going to be far off no matter the state. In Ga you pay 6% once, then about $20-40 each year after that which you own the vehicle. In Georgia, on MOTORIZED vehicles, you will pay a ONE TIME TITLE TAX (currently 6.6%) when you go to apply for a title and registration. The Title tax is based on a standardized book value generated by the State of GA. It will NOT vary from County to County (or should not if they are doing the computer entries properly) it is based on a VIN number. If the VIN is for an INCOMPLETE vehicle (meaning a cab and chassis that the coach company fitted a body to) then the value may not be in the computer. If you have some special circumstance that you feel the value is much different than the book numbers, you go ahead and pay the tax, and file an appeal form with the tax commissioner, who passes this along to the county Board of Assessors, who handle the appeal and value of it. Every county BOA establishes their own procedures and processes for the appeal and value. We allowed office staff to make adjustments up to 25% of the book, more than that, they made a recommendation and it was decided upon in a BOA meeting. Again, the appeal always goes to the BOA, but each of the 159 counties handles that process differently. I sat on my county BOA for 15 years, most of that as the Chairman. We handled a good number of appeals, usually extremely high mileage vehicles, or ones with damage that were still drive-able. There is no sales tax on motorized vehicles. After registering the vehicle, each year you pay a registration fee which is $20 for a car or light truck, and higher for heavier vehicles. You DO NOT pay a yearly Ad Valorem tax on MOTORIZED vehicles which you titled and registered after March 2013. If you own vehicles bought prior to that (I own two bought prior to that time) then you pay Ad Valorem tax EVERY year. On trailers, you pay a tag fee and a fee to title the trailer (fairly minimal) and then pay an Ad Valorem tax, based on a book value. That tax will vary by the address used as every county has a different milage rate and then you have cities, fire districts, school tax, etc, all of this adds together to create a milage rate for a particular location. You pay the registration fee and the Ad Valorem tax each year on trailers and non-motorized vehicles. In Georgia, you pay property tax on EVERYTHING except what is specifically exempt. Taxable property includes Real property (land) and Personal Property (boats, airplanes, other personal property that the aggerate total exceeds $7500) Your clothes and household items are exempt. Charles
CharlesinGA 05/17/21 11:32pm Beginning RVing
RE: So are there any decent 1141 replacement LEDs these days?

All of my LEDs come from M4 products and no where else. Quality products and never a problem with them. converted 3 RVs now, and one bi-pin G4 light failed and they replaced it promptly. Nothing else ever has failed. Great service. You get what you pay for, good LED lights are not cheap. Charles
CharlesinGA 05/10/21 12:21am Tech Issues
RE: Blue Ox - Beginner Gut Check & Help

Too late I see. I am a fan of the Sway Pro. It is designed to try to force the trailer to stay straight behind the tow vehicle, vs other hitches such as the Equalizer, Track Pro, etc, that use friction to dampen the sway but do nothing to stop it from occurring in the first place. Charles
CharlesinGA 05/02/21 10:12pm Towing
RE: charger side of Magnatek 7300

The batteries will last much longer on the Progressive converter, as it does not cook them. I have installed two in Magnatek/Parallax panels, very easy job. On my Winnebago motorhome, the converter and fridge 120v were on the same breaker so I wirenutted both wires to a short pigtail into the breaker (originally they were both in one wire thimble). The Bigfoot trailer had the converter on its own breaker. By all means install the DC fuse panel, It requires a little wire bending and routing changes as the lugs are in slightly different locations, but you get led warning lights for each fuse to show they are blown and you get a button to control the charge wizard in the converter, plus and LED to show converter status. USE A 3/8 wrench to hold the square terminal blocks while you tighten the screws so you don't twist the terminals off the printed circuit board. Charles
CharlesinGA 05/02/21 09:49pm Tech Issues
RE: Awning replacement fabric adventure...oy

I pulled out the awning about a foot from retracted, taped the ratchet lever so it could not get bumped, removed the upper bracket from the front so the fabric could be slid out/in the channel on the side of the trailer. Removed the lock screw that holds it in the channel, took the arms loose at the bottom and walked the fabric out of the channel, then we laid the awning arms on sawhorses, with the bottom of the arms resting on the ground, and unwrapped the fabric from the roller. Marked the roller for what went where, and fed the new one into the roller (end cap was manufactured with a notch for the fabric to pass thru, and the valance was pushed into the groove and we drilled a hole in the end cap and pushed the plastic into the groove on top of the valance. When that was done, we wrapped the fabric around the roller, leaving about the same amount hanging off the roller and then we walked the new fabric in the channel on the trailer, carrying the arms vertical like we had removed it. Snapped the arms in the lower brackets, reinstalled the upper front bracket with lots of sealer, removed the tape and pulled the awning out and then in several times to seat it. ran a screw back into the channel to hold the fabric in place and done. Never touched the springs. A&E 8500 Charles
CharlesinGA 05/02/21 09:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Best 14” trailer tires

I know the go to for the 16” are the Sailun tires. My new trailer has 14”. Looking to replace them this weekend. Are there a go to for them? Looking at the Goodyear Endurance in the ST215/75/14. Is there something better? TIA Short answer..... NO, nothing better than a USA made tire. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/24/21 11:07pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can I use this bearing?

The roller next to your finger appears to have a problem. Maybe just grease but I can't tell by the photo. If that is just grease, I see nothing wrong. You would do well to clean them better then work completely clean and inspect them again. I saw this too, right next to his thumb. Hopefully grease. I used compressed air to blow out all of the old grease that will come out, then wash them in a container with mineral spirits. I have a real nice Graymills parts washer but it need a complete refill and that has become too expensive, so I just buy mineral spirits at Wal-Mart in the paint section (cheaper than Home Depot or Lowes) and use that. Once I have managed to swish all the grease out of the bearing (technically a "cone"), I blow it dry (don't spin it) and if it and the race (technically a "cup") are good, then I repack it. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/24/21 11:05pm Travel Trailers
RE: 50 amp RV outlet

NEMA 14-50 has been ordered. Now to find some wire. I try and buy local when I can. Nobody had 50 amp rv outlet. One hardware store had never even heard of it. Its a NEMA 14-50 which is a standard receptacle and plug for electric ranges. Home Depot and Lowes and Menards all day long. Asking for the "RV outlet" is where you went wrong. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/22/21 11:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Roadmaster or Hellwig

We chose the Roadmaster over the Hellwig for our Ram 3500 SRW because it mounted to the axle housing in a more outboard, OEM fashion, at the bottom of the shock mounts. The Hellwig mounts more inboard with a clamp around the axle making it less effective IMO. We also installed lower Stable Loads (stainless steel versions). They offered some improvement in sag, handling, and even reduced sway slightly (at highway speeds)—-nothing dramatic. They work especially well when used in conjunction with slightly pressurized airbags. I bought a Hellwig for my '03 2500 RAM. I was not happy with the mounting setup to the axle, as it clamps right at the point the axle tubes go into the differential casting. The Roadmaster picks up the stock mounting points on the shock brackets, further out, so the bar does not need to be as thick to have the same effect. The Hellwig has been sitting in the box for a couple of years now, I guess I ought to get rid of it. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/12/21 10:48pm Truck Campers
RE: New generator for new rv. Recommendations

In my opinion, the best buy for the buck Clicky YOMV Great way to Pi$$ off anyone within a quarter mile of you, and you will grow tired of hearing it too. No open frame generators for RV'ers, be a good neighbor, get an inverter unit. Charles"Champion 4000-Watt RV Ready DH Series Open Frame Inverter with Quiet Technology" You must of been having a bad day and skipped right over that word "inverter" The "inverter" doesn't make the unit quieter. You must have skipped over "open frame".I would disagree with that assessment; an inverter does make the inverter generator quieter than a conventional generator (how much quieter can vary significantly depending on load). I'm happy with my generator, for my use it has been a great value, and no one else has ever complained about it. Now, to be perfectly clear, an enclosure would make my generator even quieter, no dispute from me. But for $20 I could build an enclosure with sound insulation, that could still provide the necessary air flow. But I don't need the enclosure, others may need an enclosure. If they do, they may want to go ahead and throw in the extra cash and go all-in for an enclosed inverter generator. What ever floats their boat, I'm good with what i have. db ratings are not linear. The open frame unit you reference is rated at 64 db which is a LOT louder than one that is say, 56 db which is more in the realm of enclosed RV type inverter units. 60db is the National Park Service limit, that is why all the enclosed RV type generators strive to get under the magic 60db. Yours may not be as loud as a real cheapie non inverter, constant 3600 rpm unit, but it is, at 64 db, more than I would want to listen to. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/10/21 01:42am Beginning RVing
RE: Poop in outside sink

My motorhome was plumbed with the bathroom sink going into the black tank. I used a dishpan in the kitchen sink and carried it back and dumped it in the bathroom too. Lots of water in the black tank makes it much easier to get a good through dump of the black tank. Indeed, many RVs are done this way, for good reason. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/07/21 11:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Are 16" tires still common? South america.. And disk brakes

BTW GY is being sued and losing over the Marathon failures, cost them over $500,000 in on suit. Think about that before you believe them on their Endurance tires. Remember what Gomer said: "Fool me once....." Apples and Oranges. The Marathons are made in China and notorious for blowouts. In contrast, the Endurance is made in the USA and I have not read or heard of one blowing yet due to cheap/crappy tire. I am sure someone has hit something and blown one, but Endurance tires are clearly better than other choices, by a wide margin. For many trailers, LT tires are simply not an option. My trailer has tires that are way over rated for the weight and yet, second trip out on a set of 2½ year old Hercules I had one blow and shred less than 15 miles after leaving home. Hercules is supposed to be a good tire, but I had already replaced the '07 Marathon spare (it went on my rarely used utility trailer) and I replaced the blown tire with another Endurance and continued on the trip. I got home and found the other Hercules in front of the blown one had wires embedded in it, scrap. The two off the other side, one had cracks running the full circumference of the tire in the bottom of the treads, scrap, and the last one looked OK so it too went on the utility trailer. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/05/21 10:59pm General RVing Issues
RE: Battery & electrical questions

The Cole Hersee style 200 amp is normally stocked at NAPA. While some stores may stock the 24213, the web site makes it appear that it is a warehouse item for me at least. In any case, its $15 or more higher than Amazon delivering it to my door. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/02/21 11:01pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery & electrical questions

I'm thinking that POSSIBLY the generator starts off the chassis battery--because one day I couldn't get the generator to start (think I just didn't prime it enough the first time) and cranked it multiple times with no luck. Then the chassis battery turned out to be dead, as in it wouldn't start the vehicle. As soon as I got the chassis battery jumped, and the engine going, the generator started right up. So my thinking was that I ran the chassis battery down in attempts to start the generator. Still not sure if that's what happened. By starting the engine, you then had the engine's alternator powering and charging all of the batteries, both the chassis and coach, so there is no telling at that point. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/02/21 10:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Equal-i-zer vs Dual Cam

I would stick with the DC. The EQ has the potential to do the same thing. Between the 2 the DC Is the better sway control hitch due to it wanting to pull the trailer back to center, whereas the EQ wants to hold the trailer at the position it stopped at. Stick with the DC. In the 15 years I towed with mine I never dropped a bar, even in tight backing maneuvers! I have never used a Reese DC but the concept is far superior to the Equalizer, which I have one of and used a couple of times and learned to hate. Its just a form of friction anti sway control. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/01/21 12:29am Travel Trailers
RE: Help identify bearings parts

Dexter 4100-6000 axle catalog A 4400 lb axle hub uses (PDF page 5 of 16 or p48 at the bottom of the page.) Inner bearing cone (bearing) L68149 Inner bearing cup (race) L68111 Outer bearing cup (race) LM67010 Outer bearing cone (bearing) LM67048 The inner bearing and race are available from Timken as a set and known simply as SET17 The outer bearing and race are available from Timken as a set and known simply as SET6 The seal is a Dexter 010-019 but is found under the National/Timken number 473336 and is a spring loaded double lip seal If you are doing tandem axles and want to replace all of the bearings, order everything plus some grease, bearing packer, etc from Summit and get it over $99 for free shipping. They have the best prices I have found and you will be astounded at how fast they get the stuff delivered. I prefer a Gearwrench 2775D bearing packer or a Lisle 34550 bearing packer, I own both and they work equally as well. Lisle 34550 bearing packer from Summit for $19.00. Cheaper than Amazon. You need about a 2 lb ball peen hammer and a 12 inch or so steel drift to get the old races out plus a couple of pieces of 4x4 wood. You need a bearing race driver set but you can usually get a loaner set from an auto parts store that has a tool loaner program. Charles
CharlesinGA 04/01/21 12:20am Travel Trailers
RE: Metal tire valve replacement

There are a number of metal stems that come with both size seals. Both Dill and Schrader make them. There is nothing wrong with this and it will not cause any problems. Charles
CharlesinGA 03/31/21 11:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Defaults dual propane regulator

I prefer Marshall Excelsior regulators and hoses. All US made and US components and they work well. MEGR-253P regulator with inverted flare pigtail connection fittings. Mounting bracket for regulator that hangs over the threaded rod between the tanks Vent cover that snaps over the vent on the regulator 15 inch stainless braided pigtail hoses with ACME nut and reverse flare ends -- NEED TWO Or save $20 and buy the rubber/plastic hose pigtails, still MEC. $109.60 for all of that, or $20 less for the cheaper pigtails. Marshall Excelsior RV LPG catalog 2020 Charles
CharlesinGA 03/27/21 11:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Tow Vehicle Spare - Have you checked it?

If the tire you are removing from the ground to spare is 6 yo or more Discount tire will not remount it. I had a 2007 dated trailer spare, brand new, very nice, that I was replacing. I normally don't deal with Discount Tire but they gave me the best price on the trailer tires. I wanted that spare mounted on a wheel for my utility trailer that most of the time doesn't leave the yard, or go very far if it does. They refused, I took the tire to my usual family owned tire shop and had them swap it over. Charles
CharlesinGA 03/27/21 10:27pm Travel Trailers
RE: Battery & electrical questions

Now ... what has happened twice in 15 years regarding our current motorhome's batteries getting charged by the Ford alternator ... is this: The 12V solenoid that connects the engine alternator to the coach batteries whenever the ignition key is turned on has failed, such that we arrived at our destination with coach batteries that did not get charged by the alternator. This above situation was probably due to corroded contacts of the solenoid - because I could still hear the failed solenoid engaging when I would turn on the ignition key. I now have an after-market heavy duty 12V solenoid with silver plated contacts inter-connecting the engine alternator and coach battery bank. What you are describing is an extremely common problem on the Winnebago manufactured motor homes. WBO used a charge/boost relay (round silver case, two large terminals and one small one, two mounting ears) that is way under capacity for what it is doing. It is 80 amp rated with plain copper contacts. The very best thing you can do is replace it with a Cole Hersee 24213 which is an identical looking relay, except it has two small terminals. You have to fabricate a short jumper from one of the small terminals to ground, usually a mounting bolt. The old relay was internally grounded to the case. The Cole Hersee 24213 is 200 amp continuous duty rated with silver tungsten plated contacts that will probably last longer than the motorhome. It is about $50. Amazon Cole Hersee 24213 relay The terminals are slightly shorter and you have to be careful tightening the nuts. DO NOT allow the factory installed nuts, or the studs, to turn during tightening, use thin lockwashers and you will have just enough stud to work. I have recommended this numerous times on the major RV boards and just recently went thru a series of PM's with a gentleman who found that the relay was not functioning on his Itasca. He replaced it. This is the "standard" recommendation on the View/Navion forum, to simply replace it before it fails. The one on my '07 View was failed at 18K miles and I didn't know it because I was always using shore power to keep the battery charged via the converter. After testing and discovering the relay bad (no voltage rise across it after starting the engine) I replaced it. Charles
CharlesinGA 03/25/21 12:01am Class C Motorhomes
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