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RE: solar

Yes, that is correct. In my case, the max size gen we can carry is the 2200 and it runs max at 1700VA which is what the 75 amper wants, so 75 amps is our max amps no way around it. (In the woods, no solar to add more amps) There is not a single advantage to get LFP in our situation. No weight issue, got enough AH , Gen time is ok. What we have works, no problem for our situation. There can be situations where an RVer can take advantage of LFP for weight, space, usable AH, etc, but "faster charging" is too easy to be misleading. An RVer must use some actual numbers for his comparison with what "speed" of charging he would get anyway using ordinary batteries, so he is not fooled by the advertising. He may find that like us, he is gen size limited to a charger size that means no "faster charging" by enough time that makes his life better.
BFL13 01/19/21 10:57pm Tech Issues
RE: solar

An electric only fridge is a poor choice for dry camping. It will take 300AH of battery capacity and 300W of solar panel production at a minimum. With lead acid batteries the 300AH will provide only 150AH for the fridge and everything else in the RV as going below 50% SOC will greatly decrease their useful life and increase the time it takes to recharge them. For an electric only fridge the best solution is to invest in lithium phosphate batteries that can take a 80% discharge without damage and that can be recharged at 4 times the rate of lead acid batteries so the generator run time will be greatly reduced and solar charging will be more effective during the limited hours of daylight. I don't think you have done the calculations for that. You keep seeing this claim about faster charging with LFP, but nobody explains how to do that. EG this "4 times the rate" claim that will reduce gen time. To me that must mean restoring four times the AH in the same time that it would take with FLAs . Or same AH in 1/4 the time. If you now have four 6s at 460AH and a 75 amp charger powered by a 2200w gen (like my set-up), that means you can do a "50-90" (184AH) in about 3 hours. To do that in 1/4 the time- 45 minutes-that means charging at 245 amps. (184 x 60/45) So first you need a 245 amp charger or combination of chargers, and a generator to run that. I doubt that is what was meant! So how about some realistic numbers with a realistic RV set-up for chargers and gen sizes and the LFP bank vs the four 6s, a 75 amper, and a 2200w gen? EDIT--ok, say I had the same set-up only with LFP so no amps tapering. It all gets done at 75 amps. 184/75 is 2 hrs , 27 min. so I would save 33 minutes (from 3 hours) of gen time. Not quite the same as "four times faster" is it? How about I do a 50-80 with my four 6s? Now it all gets done at 75 amps where amps start to taper at 80% SOC. 150AH in two hours. Swap to LFP and--oops--still 150AH in two hours.
BFL13 01/19/21 06:53pm Tech Issues
RE: New Thermostat Question

You are asking for the fan to run but not have the gas/ignition sequence to follow. I suppose you could run parallel (? a second set anyway) wires to just the fan part, by-passing the circuit board etc, with a switch on those wires so just the fan would run. Can't you run the A/C fan now without turning on the A/C? ISTR that is available to just circulate the air.
BFL13 01/18/21 09:32am Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

"It is good to listen to time2roll and BFL13." Actually it is good to listen to everybody. Everyone adds something to learn from. In my case, I am just Dr. time2roll's "creature", from his lab, where he taught me about multiple chargers adding their amps. He only had MSW at the time he zapped me to life, so I went out of his control since, but he is the Master. (He now has PSW.) So who is Igor? There are several candidates for being Igor----
BFL13 01/17/21 06:57pm Tech Issues
RE: Calling on Solar Techies

The OP wants to RV pretty much like we do, in the woods no solar in the dark half of the year and out in the open with solar in the sunny half of the year. Our "lifestyle" in the RV does not change between seasons and it is all off- grid. See my Profile for what we have to do that. It is all based on the 2000w inverter doing the 120v stuff, which means MW, Toaster, and Kettle for the high draws and TV/DVD etc for the low draws. Converter/charger to recharge the batts in the dark half and mostly solar in the sunny half. Trimetric monitor to make sure we don't screw up. Just plug the shore power cord into the inverter or else the gen when you haul that out. No need for any kind of transfer switch. Fridge and WH on gas (not auto) and converter off (no "loop") The 2000w gen will run a 60 amp charger at the most, so you will need to use maybe 3 hours to recharge the batts 50-90 in the dark half, once a day if it is cold with lots of furnace--same as you do now. No change there. So--get an equipment list something like in our Class C to do the similar job in the dark half, and get the 6s to go with it--toss those 12s. For the sunny half, something around 400 or so watts flat on the roof will do it so there is not much gen time needed. Kits are a rip-off if you are the least bit handy and get the parts yourself. Panels where you can pick them up yourself and not pay shipping too. Get them on an Rving trip so you are going by there anyway.
BFL13 01/17/21 05:27pm Tech Issues
RE: Group 27 deep cycle battery + 2000W inverter

Running time on the one battery will be short as everyone noted. Another thing is with the inverter, you have the low voltage alarm and shut off, which could be triggered by the fridge when it cycles. You need short fat wires from inverter to battery, and a decent size battery in AH (or one of the new ones that allow high amp draws and keep their voltages up) to handle the fridge's starting surge. So you could have what seems like lots of battery left in the 27, but the inverter kicks out anyway.
BFL13 01/17/21 09:24am Tech Issues
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

Yes, I forgot you can have a weight issue with a 5er, especially if you have a Diesel truck with 4x4! We had no problem with the gas truck 2x2 and our 28.5 ft 5er for what we can carry in the box. The new trucks are even stronger than our 2003, which was a jump from before that. Good thing! Anyway, the whole point is to do some serious calculations for your own scenario and not just get caught up in the fashion of the times. Nobody else is in a position to tell you what to do. Not clear if we answered the OP's question for his situation. At least he has some factors to mull over that ought to help.
BFL13 01/15/21 07:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

The Prosine 100amp charger part is PF corrected ISTR, so the 2200 could run that going full out at 14.6 at 100 amps AFAIK. Itinerant does not charge at 14.6, but at 14.1 with his LFPs so that does help when using a smaller gen too. Our Class C has no gen (it was an option the original owner did not choose it seems). A 2200 goes in the gen compt, but not the 3000 we had, so am using a 75 amp charger-max non-PF corrected the 1700 running VA rated 2200 can do. So that's where I got the gen size limit. If we could have room for the 3000, we could run 150 amps like we did with the 5er we had--the gen went in the truck bed with the 5er. Where do you carry the 2200? We have no room in the TC to carry any gen, and the truck is full of dog crates. The gen smells of gas anyway, so no good in the truck. As it is we don't need a gen for how long the TC is ever off-grid. Long off-grid time means use the Class C.
BFL13 01/15/21 09:36am Tech Issues
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

Good info, thanks! I don't have anything to add to this, but there are perhaps un-answered questions for those with longer rigs and those with newer trucks with cameras in their removable tailgates. Over to them if there is anything to add here.
BFL13 01/15/21 09:13am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Over-the-Cab TV

I don't have a power-kill feature. I do plug the TV into a power bar with its own on/off switch. When you just turn the TV off it stays on in standby unless you unplug it. So I turn it right off with the power bar's switch.
BFL13 01/14/21 07:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

Lots of calculations can be made. One thing to remember is that with a 5er you can carry lots of batteries and a big portable gen to run a big amp charger, so you can take advantage of Li charging amps. (But then I would say since you can carry all those FLAs why spend all that $ on LFP? Seems silly to me.) With a TC, the first limit is the size of generator you can take along, if any. That can reduce the size of charging amps and whether an Li is "worth it" And with the TC, you could have a battery space limit so LFP and SiO2 get you more AH in that small space. And then if it is a small TT so weight matters, then LFP beats SiO2, but if it is cold temps, then SiO2 beats LFP if you can carry the weight. Each RVer has to use his brain and figure what would be best for him. Ignore the Elmer Gantry salesmen pushing the latest thing. :(
BFL13 01/14/21 06:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing Over-the-Cab TV

Power draw depends on your choice of brightness. These are from around 8 years ago for a 32" Samsung LED LCD whatever it is: Movie- 70w, Standard- 80W, Dynamic-120w A 32" LG about the same age had: Intelligent sensor (varies with room light) 65-25w Vivid- 70w, Standard-50w, Cinema-35w, Sport-65w, Game-45w Those TVs are heavy compared with new 32" flat screens and I don't have wattages for newer ones. The new ones have legs for stands instead of a pedestal and they hang the remote sensor underneath so you must have clearance for that sensor. No problem up on the arm. The leg screws after you take the legs off can be used for the backing plate on the arm if you are lucky. Some have different size screws for the four hanging up screws than for the legs, so you might have to dig into your junk drawer for the four screws that go in the back.
BFL13 01/14/21 05:03pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Over-the-Cab TV

Our C has cabinets above the cab, no bed, with the TV "hole" in the middle. Tossed that old small TV and got a swing-out arm attached to the side of the "hole" where there is a good piece of wood in the corner of the cabinet to take the screws--has to be strong for the TV on the arm when hitting bumps on the road or whatever. Got a 32" TV that goes on the arm and it sits across the "hole". The TV can be aimed and it tilts down a little so it is good for viewing. It does not flop around going down the road, but Bungy cords to a hook inside the "hole" could hold it. TV plugs into 120v (inverter powered when off-grid) and uses the same antenna panel as the old one for the coax. The "hole" is a good place for the DVD player if its remote can see under the TV ok. TV can be pushed aside and pulled out to open the cabinet doors
BFL13 01/14/21 02:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

I tried to tether the Nokia 2.1 phone to the iPad using a USB hub to connect the two cables that charge each device, and I couldn't get it to work like I can with the phone and laptop. I suspect there might be a way and I don't know which buttons to push. While doing that, the Nokia came up with a "hotspot" thing for itself. I don't know if I pushed a button that did that or what. So the iPad wifi search showed "Nokia 2.1" as a choice, so I got on that and it said it is connected and wanted a password. the cell phone meanwhile was on the Hopkins wifi but I did not have the camera App on the phone. So it just proved I am a spaz when it comes to gizmos and I quit! Meanwhile, more on how having the camera in the Class C is such a good thing-- Yesterday I went to a quick oil change place and had to back and fill to get lined up for going in a bay, but there were cars passing behind me going to the car wash. I could not see the cars behind using the side mirrors. To back up I would need somebody out there directing traffic. Not with the camera! I could see the cars close behind and knew when it was safe to back up. Very neat!
BFL13 01/14/21 12:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

Our 5er had about 45 ft (one way) of #6 between battery and DC fuse panel and everything worked no problem. They went up and down via the ceiling, crazy way to do it :) You might have 20 ft one way from right front of bed to say back of camper left side and up some, so you could use #8 wire for your amps (20ft red and 20 ft black) You have to forgo proper balancing and use the OEM battery to take the load/charging wires and have the one in the truck bed as a "downstream battery" in parallel, but this is not a big deal with low amp draws. The wiring can just go along the truck bed and the camper can sit on it, won't hurt anything. You can toss the 27 in the front right and put in a pair of 6s if they will fit, and get some good AH. The inverter wiring to the 27 up front might be too far to reach the OEM battery box with the other loads. I have "tapped" into a single 12v in a parallel set with the main loads on another of the 12s and it all worked. "They" say put all the load wires on the same battery posts but I am not sure why that is necessary. So you could leave the inverter on the pair of 6s IMO (others can comment on that if it is a bad thing-if they say why it is bad--)
BFL13 01/14/21 10:16am Tech Issues
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

All phones are not equal it seems! Mine is a Nokia 2.1 with Android 10. The tethering USB is the same cable used for charging it. If doing that for a time, you would have to disconnect the tethering and do a recharge Would this thing do the job? It has three modes, but I am confused whether it needs wires as a repeater. https://www.amazon.com/1200Mbps-Extender-US754-Amplifier-Extender/dp/B08NZGJFT7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3TC69AKYAJ855&dchild=1&keywords=wifi%2Bbooster&qid=1610636461&sprefix=Wifi%2Caps%2C265&sr=8-5&th=1
BFL13 01/14/21 08:14am Tech Issues
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

Thanks! Based on that, I found this. Apparently this job needs a "repeater" https://www.waveform.com/pages/wifi-booster-repeater-extender-differences
BFL13 01/14/21 07:55am Tech Issues
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

OP ignore! Mex online here so- Mex you missed your photo https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30170825/srt/pd/pging/1.cfm Ok, back to regular programming for the OP.
BFL13 01/13/21 10:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Lifepo4 battery in 1990 Lance?

I can charge at 100ah with the 2200w or 2000w Honda generator. I've gone from 30% to 100% in just over 3.5 hours. Now if we add the solar and the generator I've dumped 165ah in to move things along a little quicker. OK, 70% of 500 is 350AH restored in 3.5 hours so 100 amp charging. AFAIK that means your charger must be PF corrected to run on the 2200 gen, but that might depend on the charging voltage. Can't remember what you charge at. 14.6v at 100 amps for charger output is 1460w and with 85% efficiency typical that means input is 1718w which a 2200 can do (near its max running VA) if PF is near 1. A typical non-PF corrected charger has PF 0.7, so then that 1718w is 2454VA--way above a 2200;s max running VA. I have an example from a few years ago with the 5er, where I had a Honda 3000, 155 amps worth of chargers (100 of that was PF corrected and FLA bank was at 584AH allowing for the 35F temp at the time. I used the 2 hour gen time allowed from 9-11am. Amps tapered at 61% after 32 minutes, then tapered down to 65 amps at 1100, when I stopped, restoring 214 AH in the two hours and at 87% SOC (all the way I figure it with the help of my Trimetric) So you could try to match those for a proper comparison by evening up the charging amps, the charging time, bank size in AH etc.. but I am not sure what it would prove for real life camping. I was very happy to get 214 restored in just two hours--that was all I needed to keep camping, and I was not bothered by that much gen time. Also if you have two hours of gen time and no solar and you start low in SOC where the FLAs still take the high amps, then if you have a 100 amp charger, the most you can restore is 200 amps. So almost no advantage for the LFP over the FLA starting at 50%, but starting at 75% and run for two hours--ah ha! LFP does way more AH because no tapering in that high an SOC range. So main thing, is when the salesman says his thing "charges faster" you want to pin him down to the exact scenario he is using to make that claim.
BFL13 01/13/21 08:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Rear View Camera - Cell Phone Hotspot as Wifi Booster?

Yes, my cell phone has "hotspot and tethering" but it lies! It actually has Bluetooth or USB tethering. No hotspot relay as such. So the USB part works great to my laptop, EG. I can get free hotspot wifi on the cell (or my camera signal), and leave that alone and run the laptop as though it had that hotspot connection. So you could do that if you had a USB cable that has the plug in for the phone on one end and the different Apple one on the other end or an adapter for that, and long cable run (end to end sets) from the cell in the front of the trailer to the truck's mirror. (Might as well buy a wired camera?) I have looked at wifi extenders (lots of those) but can't make out how they can pick the right wifi signal to extend by wireless and then relay that to the farther along device. Some(all?) have LAN from the extender back to the first wifi source box and then they wifi from there, (I think) I am waiting to hear from Hopkins how you can do it. I suppose any 13 year old knows, but I don't! :) I am just curious anyway, I don't need that in my set-ups.
BFL13 01/13/21 07:40pm Tech Issues
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