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RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

Seems a 1985 airstream will have a Dometic 2820 two way as OEM. (some googling to find that)
BFL13 09/25/20 02:48pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f449/wiring-new-converter-from-12-volt-panel-101990.html Says what the 1985 converter is/was. In a video that came up (googling) it showed the converter in an older Airstream. That converter looked a lot like the OEM one that was in our 1981 truck camper. It was a real beast, made in Winnipeg to a British design--forget the brand name for it. It did supply 12v when plugged into 120v. It had a battery charger section too. It made loud clunks when it switched. It was very big and heavy. Got rid of that and used a modern converter instead. bestconverter has an article about Airstream converters. Also something on how to keep the OEM power- on indicator light working if you do swap out the old converter. An old thread about it--it's a Magnetek 730-2 https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/13748154/print/true.cfm
BFL13 09/25/20 12:31pm Tech Issues
RE: 2-way refrigerator operation without a battery

You need 12v to run the fridge in either AC or gas modes. You can get that 12v with no battery from your converter (makes 12v from 120v) but in the 1985 Rv, not sure how that works. You could get a battery, but also you need a way to recharge it, so a simple deck mount converter in addition would be a help if the 1985 converter has no charger to it. In theory you could get a battery and just use any battery charger to recharge it as required, but that could be tiresome, so a converter that stays on would be preferable IMO.
BFL13 09/25/20 10:45am Tech Issues
RE: Merging a Xantrex SW2024 to a Tesla Lithium battery

Thanks for the update. Got to admire getting it all working as reward for sticking to it like that. "Where there is a will, there is a way."
BFL13 09/24/20 06:17pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar charging - can it be so?

The earlier start with a higher voltage notion sounds good, but at the time of the earlier start your amps are so low, who cares? Say you get 2 amps from 7-8am that you would not get otherwise. That is 2 AH. My goodness, two whole AH! On no shade different sets real life--I put three 100w panels (6.2 Isc each) in parallel with a PWM and got 18.6a to the battery by Trimetric when array aimed at high noon. I quickly swapped to MPPT and got 18.x (forget exact amount). It turned out that panel heating kills off wattage with MPPT to the same degree that PWM "wastes watts" according to MPPT advertising, so it was a wash. I then tried the panels in series with the MPPT (can't do that with the PWM) and got--ta da-- 18.x to the batts by Trimetric. Same. So that's what I got in real life. Three 100w panels will do what they do and that's that. You can't get blood out of a stone and wire them funny to get more, or use a different controller. At least I couldn't. Solar is so variable each day, you can't realize all these so called advantages that you will ever notice. Pick something that makes the most sense and that's your solar. After that it is all up to the weather man what good it does you. Meanwhile keep your generator handy, because you will need it if you don't have one, and might not need it if you do have one (Sod's Law with that)
BFL13 09/22/20 06:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging Troubleshooting

Checked with my hydrometer and reading 1.225 so the 90% sounds about right. I have the converter in boost mode now with charging rate of .335 amps. The percentage charged is going up slowly. Can anyone recommend a stand alone charger which would equalize charge the T105's? You did not even read the Trojan guide!!! :( If you did, you would see that 1.258 is 90% and your 1.225 is maybe 73% ish. Yes, you want 16.2v to equalize the Trojans (first you have to get them full using 14.8v) You can do that with this converter, used as a portable charger by just putting a set of cut off jumper cables in the terminals and clamp to the battery bank. the adjustable voltage mode goes from 13-16.5v. (You set the converter voltage before you clamp to the batteries) https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/powermax-pm3-60lk-12-volts-60-amp-power-converter-battery-charger-w-led-light
BFL13 09/22/20 12:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

Going around in circles here :) This came up earlier and explains it all for DC-DC and some good diagrams. Just get your guy to do which applies to yours. The MH builder is behind the times it seems. https://shop.pkys.com/Alternator-Lithium-Battery.html
BFL13 09/21/20 10:42pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging Troubleshooting

How many amps are going to the battery when the converter is at 14.4 volts? When I 14.7 from solar today, amp to battery was .5. Battery was showing 90.1 %. The battery was not showing any percentage. Your monitor might have been what was showing that. You don't have a clue if the monitor is correct. You need to start from scratch as stated before. I assume you have read this for your T-105s, but if not-- https://www.trojanbattery.com/pdf/TrojanBattery_UsersGuide.pdf
BFL13 09/21/20 08:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Cold weather options for LifePO4 batteries

No idea, but since it is just to keep them from freezing, and not to get to room temperatures, maybe grab some ground heat? It is your land, so might be possible for a small-scale set-up? No idea! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geothermal_heat_pump It's an interesting idea and one we're considering for the eventual home we're going to build. We need to dig pretty deep here to get below the frost line, so the shallow dig type setups you see (with a length of pvc pipe down a couple of feet) probably wouldn't work very well here unfortunately. If you are getting a deep well done anyway, maybe there is a way to piggy back the heat thing with the well? I don't have a clue, but might be worth a look. https://www.puitsbernier.ca/en/arterian-wells/price-artesian-well/
BFL13 09/21/20 07:50pm Tech Issues
RE: Cold weather options for LifePO4 batteries

No idea, but since it is just to keep them from freezing, and not to get to room temperatures, maybe grab some ground heat? It is your land, so might be possible for a small-scale set-up? No idea! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geothermal_heat_pump
BFL13 09/21/20 06:32pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery Charging Troubleshooting

You won't know a thing for sure until you put an hydrometer in those batts and get the truth about where you are at. Also you need the voltage at the battery posts to compare with the voltage at the converter terminals, which you get from your digital multimeter. After that, you can judge whether your monitor is accurate.
BFL13 09/21/20 05:25pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

need to learn again about posting jpgs. DO I need to have them on some other online site first? http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=2
BFL13 09/20/20 04:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Battle Born Lithium

Another factor is if you needed a little more capacity in the bank with Li it came out in an earlier thread you should not mix say a 200 with a 100 like you can with "ordinary" batteries. So the 250AH size in one batt might be useful where if you did have a 200 already but needed another 50, you could not get a 100, but would have to get another 200. So be sure to do your your sums first and get the 250 instead of the 200. You really need to know what your draws will be, which few people have any clue about estimating. I suppose asking about costs for Li is the same as other things---if you have to ask, you can't afford it!
BFL13 09/20/20 11:51am Tech Issues
RE: Battle Born Lithium

The economics of it all are interesting. It would matter what the specs and costs are for that 250AH BB compared with their 100. Say that Relion 300AH is limited to 100 amps and you need 130 amps. The cost is about $1,000 per 100AH. To get the extra 30 amps you would need two of those 300 8Ds for another $3,000. $6,000 for 130 amps! So if you went with 100AH batts that can do say 50 amps each and got three, you spent the $3,000 and get 150 amps. If two 100s can't quite do the job you want so you need a third, will a 250 do it for less cost than three 100s? Can you get the extra 30 amps with an extra 50AH or do you need an extra 100 so the 250 won't do? It can come out to anything, depending on the actual specs and costs, but does show, as was mentioned, that you really need to check those specs and costs to compare with your planned use.
BFL13 09/20/20 10:30am Tech Issues
RE: Battle Born Lithium

If you run your MW off inverter drawing 130 amps for 10 minutes from that 300AH Li 8D, is that "continuous" and so over its 100 amp rating, or is that short enough time to be "peak" at the much higher amp rating, so you would be ok?
BFL13 09/19/20 10:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood 8525 furnace overheating, gas pressure too high?

If your part is like the one in this photo to the left, from an 8531- ll or lll, not sure which now, and your screw is in the middle of the white part behind there in the photo, then the white part circle says 25M16V Type 701, 12vDC .480A, Max press 1/2 PSI The screw is in what looks like three washers stacked with all of the three showing equal depth, and the screw driver slot in the top of the screw is about 2/3 the way down in depth towards the top of the top "washer" Sorry the photo does not show where I am trying to explain, but that's what I have. https://i.imgur.com/fgU36jJl.jpg]https://i.imgur.com/fgU36jJl.jpg
BFL13 09/19/20 05:29pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

https://shop.pkys.com/Alternator-Lithium-Battery.html
BFL13 09/19/20 08:14am Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

Don't have a link, but just an "ISTR" on alternator charging where the issue was, when you added fatter wire etc so you got more charging amps, and ran the fridge etc, that this would be more amps for longer than the alternator could take and it would heat up and die. It might be bogus for all I know for sure. There is something about the alternators in police cars being able to take more than the ones in regular cars. I ASSume the ones in MHs are regular types. Although in a Class C, which is made from an "incomplete truck" that could have been made into an ambulance instead, maybe it would have the stronger type of alternator. Here we have a worry that the Li batts might be harmed (can't say--seems situational?) and that the alternator might be harmed from too many amps (Li being low R etc, and the fridge on) so somebody who knows about all this should step in and clear it all up.
BFL13 09/18/20 12:04pm Tech Issues
RE: Lithium Batteries

She wants to keep the charging to 50 amps each so 100a for the two. Meanwhile there have been posts that the alternator will fry from trying to charge the thirsty Li house batts. Sounds like the way to go is disconnect/disable alternator charging and just leave in the Aux start from the house feature if ever needed.
BFL13 09/17/20 05:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Is there a correct battery voltage chart?

I had two different AGMs, one an 8D and another was a 27. Both had similar charts for Voc vs SOC. A fairly wide band as seen here (scroll down and to the right) http://www.wegosolar.com/products.php?product=SKR%252d125AGM-Stark-AGM-12V-Solar-Battery-Sealed-125A It turned out with my AGMs, that 12.4v was about 50% as confirmed with Trimetric AH counter. They rested full (after the 0.5a/100AH target and a few days later) at 13.0V So my AGMs were in the middle of that band on that graph, but I had to learn that using the Trimetric. No other way to tell. My flooded 6s and 27s are more like the Trojan graph, also confirmed by Trimetric. So it was easy for me, just add 0.3 to the Flooded voltages to get the AGM voltages for estimating. I found it took a couple of days for the surface charge to go away after a recharge so the Flooded batts were 12.7ish. You can knock the surface charge off in a hurry if you want, but then it is hard to know if you overdid it, so your resting voltage after that could be too low.
BFL13 09/17/20 09:51am Tech Issues
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