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 > Your search for posts made by '2manytoyz' found 159 matches.

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RE: Jeep towed discharged when towing. This is new.

Definitely not being charged by the motorhome. For troubleshooting, this is a quick and dirty way to check the wiring. Start the motorhome. With the cable disconnected, check the voltage between Pins 1 and 4 as shown in the diagram below. Should read ~13.5 volts. If not, there should be a fuse inside the motorhome engine compartment fuse block identified as "towing" or similar. If so, then the problem isn't on the motorhome end. If you're using a Roadmaster 6 pin connector, here's how it is wired: width=640 At the connector on the Jeep, check between Pins 2 and 5. You should read about 12.6 Volts. If not, there should be a fuse inside the engine compartment near the battery going to the Roadmaster connector. If both of these are fine, check the wiring on the cable that connects the motorhome to the Jeep. FWIW, I just recently added the charging wiring to our Jeep. The Roadmaster EvenBrake 9400 would drain the Jeep's battery after a few hours. Now after driving 10+ hours, no issues at all. I put the fuse right at the battery, and identified it with a label. Good luck!
2manytoyz 10/15/19 08:53am Dinghy Towing
RE: generator stalls when converter tries to charge battery

Sounds like a couple of things are going on. I think the power factor is an issue, and your generator is probably starving for fuel. Power Factor: the ratio of the actual electrical power dissipated by an AC circuit to the product of the r.m.s. values of current and voltage. The difference between the two is caused by reactance in the circuit and represents power that does no useful work. In an ideal world, the power going into a charger would equate to the power coming out. In the pics below, I have an Iota 75A 12V charger connected to my solar battery bank. Power = Voltage x Current. 75A x 12V = 900 Watts. On the supply side, power should be close to the same 900W/120VAC = 7.5A. But here are my actual readings: width=640 width=640 The charger is supplying almost the full rated 75A, but instead of drawing 7.5 Amps from the generator, it's drawing 13.56 Amps! 13.56A x 120VAC = 1627.2 Watts being supplied by the generator! A lot of wasted energy from a poor Power Factor. These chargers usually have a high start up current/charge rate, but tapers off quickly unless the batteries are very dead. That may be enough to stall or trip the overload circuit on a generator. I have a Yamaha EF2400iS, and while it grunted a little, it had enough power to continue charging. ALL of these small generators (Honda, Yamaha, etc.) that have variable speed engines, have very small jets in them. There's no fine fuel filter inline. Any speck of grit in the fuel can cause issues. If the fuel demand exceeds the available fuel flow, the motor will stall. Here's how I cleaned my carburetor and added a fuel filter: FWIW, I tried Seafoam. That works on a carburetor that has stale fuel that has become sticky/gummy, but doesn't help with a piece of grit in a jet. These carbs are not difficult to work on. Amazing how well the generators work after a proper cleaning.
2manytoyz 10/10/19 07:15am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Bronco (to be) Re-Introduced (and with Hybrid version)

This has been teased a couple of years ago. I like the look, but the 4 banger or hybrid model does nothing for me. If they offer it with a 5.0L, I'd likely buy it. If Jeep puts a hemi in their Gladiator, I might be interested in it too. I don't like little screaming engines. I've owned them before, and driven newer ones. Not for me. I'm sure they'll sell plenty to the mall crawler crowds. In the meantime, I'll just keep my 2010 F150 with a V8.
2manytoyz 10/07/19 12:23pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Advice on handheld electric drill for jacks

I've used an 18V Dewalt (non-impact) drill for the jacks on our previous travel trailer for years. Worked perfectly. We recently sold the trailer to our niece. We met them for their maiden voyage, and they didn't bring a drill. I only had my Milwaukee 12V (M12 series) drill with me. It did deploy the jacks, but lacked enough power to lift the corner of the camper to make the jacks really effective. So... I'd say get an 18V or more non-impact type drill. Keep in mind, these drills have enough torque to damage your wrist if not careful. I use two hands, and keep the palm of the hand not holding the drill, against the bottom of the grip to prevent the drill from moving.
2manytoyz 10/02/19 10:48am Beginning RVing
RE: 3d printed box for Amdro Liquid Ant bait - prevent spills

Very cool, we had one spill not to long ago ... now I have a question. I do not have a 3d printer and see many for sale on craigslist for pretty reasonable prices.... anything I should look out for, either positive of negative ? I have several at work, and a couple at home. Not long ago, $2500 got you a decent printer. Now for a fraction of that, you can get a BETTER printer! Two of the most popular ones are the Creality CR-10S filament type printer, and the Elegoo Mars resin type printer. I own both, each have their pros/cons. For general use, it's really hard to beat the CR-10S. It can make things up to roughly 12"x12"x16". Runs about $459 new with warranty. The Elegoo Mars resin printer is ideal for smaller projects, and is currently $289. The build volume is much smaller, but can make much more detailed items. I wouldn't recommend this as a "general use" type 3D printer. But if you get into craft/hobby type projects, this one really shines. I'm making scale items for my RC hobby. Here are a few things I've designed for RV: Magnetic Utility Hatch Tactical Flashlight Wall Mount RV 12V Outlet Receptacle Housing Engel Fridge Digital Temperature Controller There are many forums, Facebook groups, YouTube videos, etc., all dedicated to these printers. "I" wouldn't buy a used one. A new one comes with a warranty, and support from the manufacturer. I'm experienced enough at this point to troubleshoot/repair/rebuild 3D printers, but I have several years experience using these, and work as an aerospace eng tech. Getting a used one from a questionable source, without some background knowledge, can lead to a lot of frustration! If you have any specific questions, please feel free to PM me, or contact me at [email protected]
2manytoyz 09/30/19 06:48pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 3d printed box for Amdro Liquid Ant bait - prevent spills

I like the small liquid ant bait containers from Amdro, as they do the job, but the problem is they are so easy to spill. I created a little (near) spill proof container that had magnets to prevent it from falling off a shelf or countertop. If any spills out of the Amdro packaging, it is held inside the box - but there is no restrictions for the ants entering the box. If you have a 3d printer you can make this yourself. See here. Very nice, thanks. I've added it to my list of things to print!
2manytoyz 09/30/19 06:25pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: 97 Fleetwood Bounder, F53 chassis

I had the same issue with a 1999 Bounder on an F53 chassis. Mine ended up being a bad solenoid in the Battery Control Center. The solenoid had failed, which caused the chassis battery to not charge when plugged into shore power. The auxiliary start button uses the same solenoid during an emergency to connect the chassis battery to the house batteries. So that didn't work either. I posted pictures/details here: It was a PITA to access, but the work wasn't difficult. Good luck!
2manytoyz 09/30/19 06:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Fiberglass Roof

Just sold our 2007 (received it late 2006) Rockwood TT with a vinyl roof. It lived in the FL sun the entire time. Roof was washed about once a year. I replaced the LAP sealant a couple of times. Roof still looked good. Bought our current RV. Fiberglass roof has cracks where it meets the sidewalls. Too sharp of a radius. Contacted Lazy Days a week after purchase, they were no help. Their 30 day warranty means nothing. Contacted the manufacturer, though it was only 3 years old at the time, they said they wouldn't cover it. But the year newer model, they have a TSB to fix it. Well, not really fix it. Cover the area with an extruded piece of aluminum, then seal it with a roll of Eternabond. Forest River dropped the ball on this one. So don't get too excited about a 1 piece fiberglass roof. In theory, they should last longer than vinyl or EPDM... but poor engineering can directly affect that! width=640 Video of the issue with ours: Already had some water damage to a cabinet. I've since sealed the area with RTV. When it cools off, I will fix the fiberglass area properly myself, building up and smoothing the affected areas. It's not complicated to repair, but it's also ridiculous that I have to on something so new. Even Ford still has a chassis warranty on this vehicle!
2manytoyz 09/19/19 01:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: For Standard Gear, What's your ladder of choice?

I bought an Xtend & Climb Ladder in 2004 for use with my first Class A. Truth is, I use it at home a LOT more than with the RV. 12.5' of ladder folds up to 2.5', and only weighs 25lbs. You can extend only as much as you need. width=640 width=640 There are many brands of these now, but I can only give feedback on the brand I have, which is made from aircraft grade aluminum. Even though it's 15 years old, and has been used a lot, it still works perfectly. Link to the equivalent to what I have:
2manytoyz 09/19/19 01:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A stuck next to house!

Some post event pics. width=640 width=640 width=640 width=640 width=640 It was almost setting on the stabilizer jacks. Those would likely be damaged during the tow if stuck in the ground. Until we have a fix, I'm leaving it on the driveway (mostly). The two wheels on the grass have 3/4" plywood under them. If I park completely on the driveway, makes getting the vehicles in the garage too tight. We have a trip planned in a couple of weeks. I'll start contacting local contractors for ideas and price quotes. Might replace the driveway at the same time. It's 30 years old, and is cracked. Might have to sell a kidney to pay for it all though...
2manytoyz 09/10/19 06:35am General RVing Issues
RE: DIY project for Generator rack

Of course it's been done successfully. Here's a link to the related Google images on this topic. Click any of them for more details. Whether it can be done to YOUR camper, is another story. My last camper was a 25' Rockwood Ultralite. I could have added one to the back of mine. Here's how... This is the frame of that TT: height=480 I'm not sure who's camper has a frame and/or rear bumper made as thinly as pop cans, but I've never seen one. The square tube on the back is actually welded to the I-beam frame. I can stand on the middle of it, doesn't flex. height=480 I would simply add a piece of angle iron under the square tube, and weld it along the tube, and to the frame rails. This way the weight can be supported, and more importantly, stop the twisting action of having a generator hanging off the back. You can weigh your camper, then the tongue weight, then have someone stand on the rear bumper to see how it affects the tongue weight. If you're still in the 10% range, good to go. The rear axle is not halfway between the tongue, and the rear bumper. 200 lbs on the back doesn't equal 200 lbs less on the tongue. Some states allow triple towing. People add hitches to the back of their rigs. Same idea... YMMV, but it has been done successfully with other rigs.
2manytoyz 09/09/19 01:03pm Travel Trailers
RE: Can you recommend me a high temperature tape?

Another vote for edge trim. This is intended for use on metal or fiberglass edges. Very tough stuff. Won't come off until you remove it. No heat issue, no adhesive residue, looks professional. This is the product I've used on my projects: height=480 height=480 height=480
2manytoyz 09/09/19 12:39pm Tech Issues
Class A stuck next to house!

Our previous rig was a 25' travel trailer. We kept it parked next to the house since 2011, when we moved in. Zero issues moving it. Late last year, we bought a used 35' Class A. It fits nicely next to the house too. When I had the fence installed, I specified a 14' wide RV gate with a welded aluminum frame on the back to help with sagging. All was well for months. Last week I went to gas it up prior to Hurricane Dorian approaching our area. I made it about 20', and the rear axle sank. We're in FL. Our property has about a foot of topsoil on sand. Drainage is usually pretty good. There was no visible standing water that day. Once it dug a hole, there was no getting it out. I jacked it up, put pavers and wood under the rear tires. I could get it to move forward some, but never get up out of the trench it had created. We have Progressive RV insurance. After a couple of hours of effort, I called them. This was covered under our policy since it was within a 100' of pavement. They sent a big tow truck, pulled us to dry land. Now I have to contact a paving company for ideas. We have buried utilities in that area, so I don't want a solid concrete pad. Maybe crushed rock with pavers on top, or two 4' wide concrete strips for the tires, the rest filled in with gravel. Still researching this. I'll be a lot more cautious where I travel off road after this experience. width=640
2manytoyz 09/09/19 12:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: LED's for marker lights

I replaced all the marker lights on our Class A. I bought two sets of 10 from Amazon for $7.99/10ea. Source: width=640 These received a 4.5/5 rating from customers. I really like them!
2manytoyz 08/23/19 09:38am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Has anyone looked at the Jeep Gladiator?

I saw them at the Jeep Beach event this year (Daytona Beach). They offered a ride-along on a small hilly course they built. It looks neat, but if they want to be a contender, they need to offer a V8 version. I'd consider a hemi version, but V6, no thanks!
2manytoyz 08/23/19 09:18am Tow Vehicles
RE: Using an automotive battery charger when onboard fails

I've had the converter fail while camping. Back then, I didn't bring a stand-alone charger with me. But I did have my jump pack, which had a sealed lead acid battery inside. I only needed power for one more night, and this worked fine, though looked a little odd. width=640 Now I carry my old Diehard (Sears) 12V automatic battery charger. I used this to keep batteries fully charged for several years in my garage. width=640 While on another camping trip, someone with a new 5th wheel asked if I could help troubleshoot their battery issue. Dead converter. I loaned him our charger for the several days we were in the same park. Turned out he was one of the folks that reviews campgrounds for Woodalls. Gave me the latest campground guide when he returned the charger. That said, yes, a stand-alone charger will keep your camper going. Mine will only supply up to 10A continuously. But with it charging all day, with little 12V usage, any spikes at night will be supplied by the charger AND the recharged battery bank. The jump pack lasted for years. Every few years I had to replace the internal battery. The case eventually started cracking. Finally threw it away. I now carry a DBPower lithium jump pack in each of my vehicles.
2manytoyz 08/15/19 11:36am Tech Issues
RE: AC question

Is your fridge a residential style, or an absorption style (uses propane)? The reason I ask is the residential style tends to have a built-in defrost mode, the absorption ones don't (that I've ever seen). Consequently, when I lived in my first Class A for a year, I'd have to manually defrost the freezer about once a month. With the residential style, no such issues. I had my first Class A for 1.5 years. It was always powered up. My last Travel Trailer was parked in storage for part of its life, the rest at our current home, which I've added a 30A connection. It has been powered up since 2006. I sold it last week. It does NOT harm an A/C to leave it running. Seals tend to fail from lack of use, rather than overuse. The humidity and heat will destroy the inside of a camper here in FL. But setting the thermostat to 80F, will keep it pristine inside. Our current Class A was purchased last November, and has one A/C running the entire time. I'll soon be changing my RV outlet on the house to a 50A, so both units can cycle as needed.
2manytoyz 08/09/19 01:44pm General RVing Issues
RE: Why not forget holding tanks and just use portable tanks?

Most pop ups don't have holding tanks. We had one for 9 years, and used a 5 gallon aqua-tainer to catch our gray water. Never had an issue in state parks. I think you might have some issues in some of the private campgrounds. I've seen many of those that don't allow converted trailers or buses, it has to be a factory built RV. When I had a pop-up camper, here's what we were dealing with at St. Andrews SP in FL. Look at the lower right of the bulletin board on the bath house. But, this was the ONLY campground I've ever noticed this. We've had to use our blue tote many times at campgrounds that lacked full hookups. It's a PITA. Our tote is only 10 gallons. But that's still 83.4 pounds, plus the weight of the tote. Too heavy to pull by hand very far, too heavy to lift safely into the bed of my truck, and the wheels are sketchy behind a vehicle... but I have towed it with my truck. I just kept the speed down, and sprayed the wheels/axles with lube before rolling.
2manytoyz 08/09/19 01:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: ONAN 5500 Grand Marquis fuel pump & filter

I posted a video on YouTube where I replaced the fuel pump and filter on mine. I bought the replacement pump ($34.95) and fuel filter ($17.48) on Amazon. Fuel pump: Fuel filter: Pretty easy job. Watch the video first if you're unsure.
2manytoyz 08/09/19 09:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Sub flooring question

You can use CDX plywood, then paint it the faces, and make sure to seal ALL the edges. It has a water resistant adhesive. I would get about 10 years from a plywood bed on a utility trailer, with the bed fully exposed to the weather in FL. Certainly would last a lot longer without rain hitting the topside. My friend refurbished an Airstream. Used Starboard flooring. Expensive, but will last forever... Good luck on your project.
2manytoyz 08/07/19 11:41am Travel Trailers
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